City in Bolivia
Photo: Gerd Breitenbach, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Potosí, at around 4,000 metres, is one of the world's highest large cities. It is located in the Potosí Department of Bolivia. The wealthy history of Potosí is reflected in the narrow streets, colonial mansions and the many churches, which make the city a UNESCO World Heritage site.
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National Mint of Bolivia
Cl. Ayacocha s/n, is the former royal mint of Spain, where the coins of the world's most powerful currency were produced during the colonial era from locally-mined silver. It now houses a museum, located at the mint's second location (prior to 1773 it was located at what's now the yellow courthouse on Plaza 10 de Noviembre). Visits are by guided tour only (English M-Sa at 09:00, 11:00, and 14:30; Su 10:30 or 11:00) which takes about 2 hr. The museum has a collection of religious art, contemporary art, local minerals, and well-preserved artifacts covering several hundred years of technologies from both of the mint's two historical locations.
Tours (in Spanish only) give a good explanation of the life and work of the Carmelite nuns and their monastery. Very little flagellation (LP).
Nice views of the surroundings from above.
A visit to Potosí cannot be mentioned without a visit to one of the cooperative mines. It is a kind of poverty tourism that many tourists are eager to embrace. It's a shocking experience as the methods of working haven't changed much since the colonial times. Working conditions are terrible: most miners die of silicosis in their forties. Still, many people don't have another choice and around 10,000 people work in the mines. A tour starts with a visit to the miners' market to buy gifts for the miners like coca leaves, drinks, cigarettes or dynamite. You will then visit an ore refinery plant where the miners sell whatever deposits they manage to collect. Then you head to the mines, where a typical visit will have you walking and crawling through it for about 2~3 hr. You can talk, take photographs and share your gifts with the miners.
Taking a tour of one of the cooperative mines is still a good way to get a sense of the social price paid for the mineral wealth of the few. The dust is supposed to contain silicon that leads to silicosis (wear a disposable mask!) among the miners. Water dropping from the walls and ceiling is said to contain arsenic and cyanide. You can see asbestos fibers in the rock walls. Many of the mine props are snapped and in 2003 there was a minor ceiling cave-in that forced visitors to wait a bit before being able to exit the mine. One very interesting aspect of the mine was the little side chamber near the entrance to the mine that contained a statue of "El Tio," a diabolic figure that the miners make offerings to. They say that God may rule aboveground, but that El Tio is in charge down below.
Btw. they don't do explosions just for tourists, but for the sake of the mine. People with claustrophobic tendencies, be wary, Silver Mine Tours takes you deep into the guts of this rabbit warren of a mine. It seems the safety aspect is very low, actually totally missing.
Mirador
Nice view of Cerro Rico
Try the famous Kalapurka soup (spicy soup served hot with a volcanic rock). It is a Potosí institution. Take a cab.
Serves big plates (Bs. 30-35), also a good place for lunch (Bs. 15).
Cheap but not special Chinese food.
For pastels and breakfast
Upmarket restaurant with great food at reasonable prices, start with the great house salad for Bs. 12.
Clean with shared bathroom and great views. Has rooms for up to 4 people.
Has heating in the rooms! Book exchange, fast Internet with Wi-Fi. Dorm bed with excellent breakfast including eggs and fruit! Bs. 60-70 (dorm with 6-8 beds). Also doubles and triples. Has highly recommended tours of the silver mines even though they are a bit more expensive than other tour companies. Has a great view of the mountain from the rooftop, be careful when climbing the water tank though.
Here is a great hostel in the heart of Centro Potosí. Great beds, fast wifi, warm showers, and a great lounging area.
An architecturally unique hotel above the Yotala valley, surrounded by 360-degree panoramic views of the mountains.
By van/servis
Collective cabs that travel slightly quicker but more expensive than the buses can also be arranged to Sucre (Bs. 35-50, 2½-3 hr) and Oruru (Bs. 120).
By taxi
From Sucre it is worth hiring a cab for 2 or more people as the trip is faster and more comfortable than one on a collective cab or a bus, and the cab leaves at your schedule.
By plane
If arriving at Sucre airport, there are shared taxis that depart from the airport. Upon exiting the airport, look to your right and there is a taxi rank. The cost is Bs. 50 per person (as of Nov.
Taxis are generally cheap and plentiful around Potosí. However, always check the price with the driver. Some charge per person which could get you into arguments when it comes time to pay.
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Sucre · International · SRE
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