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District & municipality in Xiangkhouang Province, Laos
Photo: PTD Phonsavan, CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Phonsavan (ໂພນສະຫວັນ) (pronounced Pon-savan) is the capital of Xieng Khouang Province in Central Laos. It is known primarily as the gateway to the Plain of Jars.
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Local relics, sarongs and Pathet Lao recreations, enjoy.
The extent of the bombardment is in particular evident at Baan Khai. Here, the landscape is pockmarked with craters. Driving north along Route 7 plenty of creatively modified war scrap used in local architecture catches your eye. In Tajok, a Hmong village along Route 7 (30 km northeast of Phonsavan), you can discover lots of bomb casings reused as barn pillars, fences and for other uses.
Although not littered with structures built from UXO, with a bit of browsing you will find some scattered about (such as corn and grain storage with the occasional planter) the village.
Constructed to commemorate the thousands of Pathet Lao soldiers who lost their lives during the Indochina Wars and to honour the Vietnamese soldiers who fought alongside them. Climb up the small hills and you will be rewarded with great views of the town and surrounding areas.
The Mines Advisory Group (MAG) clears unexploded ordnance. MAG began its Lao programme in 1994 and started the first internationally supported UXO clearance operation in Xiangkhouang. MAG works to help people to rebuild their lives and alleviates suffering by responding to the needs of conflict affected communities. Local staff are trained to clear away the brush, to use a metal detector, and recognize ordnance.
One of the tragedies of the Secret War, on 24 Nov 1969 a single rocket fired from an aircraft caused the death of an estimated 374 people who had taken refuge in the cave. Their bones are still buried in the rubble.
In a scenic karst area, the caves were used by the revolutionary fighters. Inside the cave complex they set up a hospital, an arsenal, and a medical depot. Evidence can still be seen. Besides its war history, the illuminated residential cave is worth visiting to see its natural beauty. The Hmong community of Ban Ta takes care of the caves and offers a local tour service.
The big hot spring, Baw Nyai, has been developed as a resort with bungalows and indoor bathing facilities. You can walk through the forest to the spring source, but swimming in the pool is not possible. The jar site of Ban Nam Hom is a 2-km walk away. This jar site offers an insight into how the jars were made as part of the site is a quarry. Taking a guide to visit the site is recommended.
Nong Tang is a large picturesque natural lake flanked by high limestone cliffs. Locals use it for fishing and it is a popular picnic site. Enjoy the peaceful setting in the local restaurant. Overnight stay is available in a guesthouse along the shore.
It's unique in that Tai Dam animist tombs are mixed with Catholic tombstones, Chinese graves, and Lao Buddhist reliquary. The hilltop offers sweeping views and is an ideal spot for watching the sunset over the green hills. The lake, 3 km north of town, is named for Prince Supanouvong, the first president of the Lao PDR. Once the site of the provincial jail, it is now a place of repose.
This impressive waterfall is surrounded by spectacular limestone karst. The water runs down in cascading steps alternating with steep areas for more than 100 m. It flows all year round. To get to the falls a guide is recommended.
The water flows down several tiers. A spectacular jungle trail winds its way up the waterfall crossing it several times. A popular picnic spot for locals, especially during the Lao New Year holidays. Local tour companies offer day tours including a picnic lunch and a hike up the waterfall.
Tad Lang cascades down about 800 m. To enjoy its beauty follow the trail down to the bottom of the valley. It is a good picnic spot, but because you must cross a river to reach it, access is difficult in the rainy season.
Travelling to Thathom is still an adventure. Driving mainly on dirt roads you pass thick deciduous forests, stands of bamboo, remote villages and cross rivers several times. Thathom offers a gorgeous karst landscape with plenty of rivers, caves, and historical sites, but tourist services are scarce. Songthaews leave Phonsavan daily, but there are no regular trips in the rainy season. Boat services are available once you reach the Nam Xan River going to Paksan in Bolikhamxay Province.
For those in need of exercise or simply interested in taking part in one of Lao people's favourite modern sports, the Xiangkhouang Mai Hotel has badminton courts open to the public. Rackets are available for rent on the premises. Players are required to bring their own sporting attire.
Participate in English classes at Phonsavan School (English Centre, Phonsavan School). English speaking tourists are welcome to participate in English evening classes in the local primary/junior high school. It is a rewarding experience, and you don't have to be a teacher.
Founded in 1998 to take care of the many children who lost their parents in UXO accidents. Today 145 children live in 12 family houses. The associated kindergarten and primary school are open to local children. You are welcome to visit the centre during office hours. Check in at the administration building first.
Run by the Xiengkhouang Quality of Life Association (QLA), a Lao NGO that is supported by international foundations and donations from visitors. There is an exhibit about how people deal with a life with "bombs". The QLA helps people to recreate their livelihoods after they have been injured by a bomb accident. The centre's staff are UXO survivors themselves and can be approached to explain about the life of UXO victims. Donations and shopping in the gift shop are highly welcome. The centre is associated with the ministry of health and rehabilitation.
MAG
The Mines Advisory Group deals with UXO (unexploded ordnance). MAG began its Lao programme in 1994 and started the first internationally supported UXO clearance operation in Xieng Khouang. MAG works to help people to rebuild their lives and alleviates suffering by responding to the needs of conflict affected communities. Local staff has been training to clear away the brush, to use a metal detector and recognize ordnance. Their village assisted clearance approach allows communities to participate in the process. The UXO survivors Information Centre was opened by the World Education organisation. The centre has a gift shop with products made by UXO survivors.
Lao Sericulture Co, a fair trade company, is dedicated to enabling Lao village silk producers in the northern provinces to revive the art of high quality silk production. Villagers are trained in sericulture, the process of raising silkworms, processing and improved weaving techniques, and natural dying. Leaves, bark, vines, berries, and seeds create colours to appeal to virtually any taste. A free guided tour leads you through the production process. The purchase of souvenirs helps the local communities and enabling them to rise out of poverty.
Caters to Western tastes with a menu of pizza, burgers (only so-so) and other favourites. It does have a nice interior design compared to the other places in town.
A good restaurant with a pleasant view.
Local and western food. The owner speaks good English.
Food items like teriyaki and drinks (wine, cocktails).
Rooms with Wi-Fi, moskito net and fan, but no air-con. The owner offers very informative whole-day Plain of Jars tours for US$ 40 - 45 including lunch and entrance fees to jar sites 1 - 3 (longer than most other tours in town). Also offers motorbike and bicycle rental as well as laundry service (30'000 kip/kg).
The name says it all. Popular with backpackers. English-speaking staff. Rooms have fan-only option, no air-con. Wi-Fi.
Double or twin rooms with bath. Breakfast and tourist services available.
Very good restaurant. The better rooms are much nicer than the basement rooms. Idiosyncratic UXO and local ethnic-themed decor. The owners are very knowledgeable about recent history.
Popular place. Organises tours. Decent rooms.
Bright, clean and ample-sized rooms. Breakfast included. Only hotel in the province with a lift.
Bright, medium and large sized rooms. Fast Wi-Fi in room. The nightclub in the backyard is popular with students and young people in town.
Modern hotel with clean rooms and Internet.
Nice colonial-style wooden villa offers charming rooms with a relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy the balconies if you rent a room upstairs and the upper sitting terrace.
Wonderful view. Professionally managed. Excellent French restaurant with Alsatian-influenced cuisine which is in its own league. Highly recommended, but not cheap.
Professionally-managed hotel with sister hotels in Luang Prabang and Vientiane. Modern, clean and spacious rooms.
Free Wi-Fi. Big rooms. Functionalist, and somewhat austere, Vietnamese architecture. With restaurant and breakfast featuring Vietnamese coffee.
An excellent place to sample the variety of unique foods that Xiengkhouang has to offer. The cool climate and high altitude of the province produces many food items and forest products that are unavailable in other parts of Laos, e.g., mushrooms, peaches, plums and passion fruit. Some people also sell exotic meats, such as live bamboo rats or pheasants. A special drink is matsutake whisky made from Hed Wai, a highly valued mushroom from the pine forests of Xieng Khouang.
In the city centre offering products made by Hmong. In the same shop is also a Thai massage parlour run by a group of four experienced Thais. The boss trains locals in the art of massage.
Famous for woodcarving. This family business produces crafts made from scented long leng wood (Fujian cypress), a rare wood. You can watch the carvers work and buy souvenirs.
By bus
Phonsavan has three bus stations: Xiengkhouang Station to the west of town center, Phonethong Station (Ban Ngoui or Ban Noi branch) to the south of town, and Phonsavan Bus Terminal (aka Bounmixay…
To get to other towns in the province you can take local buses or pick-up trucks. A normal tour inside the town costs about 100,000 kip.
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