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Petrolina is a city in the São Francisco Valley (Vale do São Francisco), in the southernmost point of the state of Pernambuco, in Brazil. With over 340,000 inhabitants (2017), it is one of the largest cities of the Northeast's Sertão, a mostly semi-arid and sparsely populated region. However, Petrolina stands as the major city and business center of the São Francisco Valley, a fertile area thanks to the irrigation from the São Francisco river. It is a major exporter of fruits and a growing enotourism destination.
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The Cathedral of Petrolina is one of the city's most recognisable and attractive sights, built in Neo-Gothic style and inaugurated in 1929. In front of the cathedral lies the O presente de Padre Cícero a Dom Malan sculpture, that represents the scene of Padre Cícero, one of Brazil's most popular religious leaders, giving the cathedral's clock as a gift to the first bishop of Petrolina, Don Malan. In the north side of the cathedral lies the Concha Acústica (acoustic shell), built in Modernist style in 1973 and that resembles an open bible. This space is used for public performances and events, but when it is not holding one, the place should be avoided as it is a hanging place for drug addicts.
The mansion was inaugurated by Bishop Don Malan in 1929, intended as home for Catholic clerics. It is no longer used or open to the public.
Rua Barbosa Lima is the city's historical quarter filled with early 20th century, colourful houses. It used to contain cafes, bars and restaurants but unfortunately, now it seems abandoned, with the buildings vandalised and in a state of disrepair.
The city's first church and place of foundation, inaugurated in 1860 in Neo-Colonial style with Neo-Classical elements. It is dedicated to Our Lady Queen of the Angels, patron saint of Petrolina which has a statue inside the church.
Petrolina's rail station, inaugurated in 1923 and which operated until 1977 as part of the Petrolina to Teresina and V.F.F. Leste Brasileiro rail lines. The rails actually never reached Teresina. It is a Neo-Renascence style building, declared a National Heritage site. A funeral service operates there.
Located at the São Francisco river near the ferry stop to Juazeiro, it is a statue of the orixá (a deity of a traditional African religion Iemanjá, which via syncretism with the Catholic religion, is associated with Our Lady of Sailors in the state of Bahia.
A free entrance museum about the history of the Brazilian Northeast's Sertão region, containing a range of regional furniture and objects, plus some personal belongings of famous regional figures such as Don Malan and Lampião.
The Orla is the riverfront of Petrolina, facing the São Francisco river and which provides a nice view of Juazeiro and of the sunset. It contains a running and cycling track, scattered bars and restaurants, and in the other side of Av. Cardoso de Sá, the most expensive real estate in the city.
A modest water park facing the São Francisco river, it is a good way to refresh from the daytime heat and enjoy the city's abundant sunshine.
The island in the São Francisco river contains Petrolina's only beach, which is a popular place for bathing on weekends. There are restaurants and bars surrounding the small beach. You can reach the Juarez pier, with ferries to the island, by taking a van at the Grande Rio hotel.
The Bodódromo ("Goat drome") is Petrolina's most famous gastronomic center, a collection of restaurants serving Brazilian Northeastern cuisine, with particular emphasis on goat meat, lamb and fish. Bode Assado do Ângelo (Av. São Francisco, 8, +55 87 3983-0911), specialised on goat meat, is the most famous restaurant in the area.
One of Petrolina's most famous restaurants, dedicated to Brazilian Northeastern cuisine, with a range of regional dishes such as moqueca de Cari, sarapatel de bode and carne de sol, and with evocative decoration and regional music.
The restaurant of chef Vinícius Tetsuo Kikuti Freire, with Japanese-Peruvian fusion experiments, is widely known as the best Japanese restaurant of Petrolina, and possibly one of the best of the entire Brazilian Northeast. The restaurant is small and extremely popular, so prepare for a long queue.
Riverside hotel with sleek glass facade and restaurant and sauna/pool.
The city center of Petrolina is also the city's main shopping area, which most shops on Av. Souza Filho, R. Dom Vital and surrounding streets. As in most of Brazil, street shops are typically open on daytime, from Monday to Saturday excluding public holidays. There you can find the usual array of Brazilian chain stores such as Magazine Luiza, Lojas Americanas, Marisa and Havaianas, as well as local shops.
For those longing for the conveniences of air conditioning and evening/Sunday shopping, Petrolina has a modern (and usually crowded) shopping mall in the city center area, although not so near the main shopping district. Besides the usual stores, cinema and food court, it contains a Hiper Bompreço supermarket, a Macaxeira restaurant and the only Melissa store in Petrolina.
Despite the name, "Tourist Market", it is actually a typical popular shopping gallery, with informal sellers offering cheap clothes, perfumes, shoes, and accessories. There are a few local handcraft shops.
A sort of "oasis" in the middle of the bustle of the city center, the small shopping mall has many local boutique shops and some pleasant cafes and dessert stores. Most Petrolinenses, however, go there to buy smartphones and accessories.
It is hard to miss seeing the Statue of Liberty on the way from the airport to the city center, and that's the location of the local branch of the Santa Catarina-based Havan department store. It is a good place to find higher quality goods in terms of furniture, electronics, toys and household items, or perhaps just relax and have a handmade cake at the Valle Café.
By bus
Long-distance buses are a popular and economical way to travel, though distances to major cities are long with Petrolina being about 500 km from Salvador and more than 700 km from Recife.
From Juazeiro
If you are staying in Juazeiro, you can reach Petrolina by simply crossing the São Francisco river on foot via the Presidente Dutra bridge, or by public transportation boat at the pier in front of…
By taxi or e-hailing
To move exclusively around Petrolina or to the nearby town of Juazeiro it is not cost-effective to rent a car.
On foot
Walking during daytime is not easy due to the (often scorching) heat and the lack of shelter. Therefore it is recommended to limit walking to shorter distances, such as walking around the city center.
By bicycle
Petrolina is basically flat and cycling is easy, at least when the sun is not too strong. There are segregated cycling paths at the riverfront (Orla) and at some major roads including Av.
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Petrolina · Regional · PNZ
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