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Prefecture and commune in Occitania, France
Photo: via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Perpignan (Perpinyà in Catalan) is the capital of the department of Pyrénées-Orientales, the Northern Catalonia part of France, and about 15 km from the sea. Perpignan is home to about 120,000 people, and has two rivers flowing through it; with the Têt to the north, and the Basse through the centre. Once the continental capital of the Kingdom of Majorca, Perpignan has been an economical and educational centre for centuries, and this is evident in its architecture.
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Basilique-Cathédrale de Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Perpignan
Work on this large brick cathedral began in 1324 during the rule of King Sancho I of Majorca. The fall of the kingdom and the Black Death impeded works, and the building was only finished in 1509. It became a cathedral in 1602. It's been modified many times over the centuries and the oldest part is the choir with its seven-sided apse. Attractions include the white marble main altarpiece with scenes from the lives of Jesus and St John the Baptist, and altarpieces of Notre-Dame-de-la-Magrana and Saint-Pierre. There's also a small chapel with sacred art of the early 14th century, and a wooden crucifix brought here from the Rhine Valley. The western façade of the cathedral has a bell tower with a bell made in 1418.
The "field of saints" is a cemetery built from 1300 and used until the French Revolution. It's a brick cloister, with wealthy people buried in its arcades and the less well-off in the middle - now a grass field, formerly an ossuary. The oldest visible grave dates from 1317. It's occasionally an event space.
chapelle Notre Dame dels Correchs
Formerly the main church, Saint-Jean was abandoned once the cathedral was completed, and can't be visited.
Casa Pairal Museum
This fortified 14th-century city gate is the symbol of the city. The 31 m high dungeon is the Grand Castillet, and next to it the Petit Castillet was added in 1478; the bastion was demolished in the 19th century. It now houses a museum of folk art and traditions and there are nice views of the city from the terrace at the top.
Mairie
The city hall was built in the 14th century and much modified since. It remains the seat of local government and there are no tours: you can look in on the courtyard, but can't routinely see the ornate wedding salon or council meeting room.
This 15th-century building housed the Catalan government in Aragonese and Majorcan times, and when Perpignan became French it retained a similar function as the Sovereign Council of Roussillon. After the French Revolution it was a courthouse until 1866. It's now city government offices.
This was the medieval stock exchange and commercial chambers. It's now the Tourist Office.
This displays French and Spanish painters from the 15th to the 20th centuries, including those of Hyacinthe Rigaud (1659-1743). He was born in Perpignan and became a royal portraitist at the courts of Louis XIV and Louis XV. His detailed images capture the fashions of those days.
Rotating exhibitions of contemporary art. Benjamin (1892-1940) was a German Jewish philosopher and art critic. He escaped occupied France to Port Bou, but the Spanish intended to deport him back to France, and he took an overdose rather than be handed over to the Nazis.
Bernat Xanxo was a wealthy draper and had this mansion built in Catalan Gothic style in 1506. It's now a small art museum, but the building itself is the main attraction, with the ceremonial living room, and the frieze with symbols of the cardinal sins and the flames of hell awaiting.
This Dominican monastery was created in 1245, housing some 60 monks, and remained active until the Revolution. It has a large 18th century chapel, a chapter house, cloister, refectory and dormitories. The only part you can see is the chapel, used as an art exhibition space. The rest of the complex is military, organising French national service.
The royal parish church was built on the site of a former convent and consecrated in 1323. During the Revolution it was a munitions factory, but in 1804 became a church again. It retains its Gothic structure, although the façade was renovated in the 19th century. Highlights within are the 14th century baptismal font and a 15th century painting of a tomb.
This was built from 1276 on the hill of Puig del Rei, as the powerbase for King James II of Majorca. It needed to be defensive as well as plush, so it was continually reinforced, the last by Louis XIV's military engineer Vauban. The palace is ranged around three courtyards with lush gardens and surrounded by ramparts and eight fortified towers. Enter through the tour de l'hommage, a marble and sandstone gate. The main building has elegant arcades and two side stairs, and contains the royal apartments and two chapels; Sainte-Marie-Madeleine for the queen and Sainte-Croix for the king. There's also the throne room which is monumental. An interesting detail is a frieze with the word "Allah" in Arabic: covering their backs with the Muslim Moors. You can climb the principal tower for a view of the city and the Pyrenees.
Charming mansion built 1896-1902 with money from a cigarette paper business. It's now a small art museum.
Extensive collections of the mineralogy, flora and fauna of the Pyrenees. There are also sections with archaeological objects from ancient Egypt, and an ethnological collection from Oceania.
Founded in 1260 as part of the city extension, it's in Catalan Gothic style and has many altarpieces. The portal made of marble from Céret was originally in Notre-Dame de La Réal, but was brought here in the 17th century, and a chapel added. On Good Friday it's the start point for Procession de la Sanch, in medieval black hoods.
Founded in 1573 and taken over by the army in 1791, this now houses art exhibitions.
Monument aux Morts aux Enfants du 66 de Perpignan
A war memorial, erected in 1924. It marks the southern tip of Miranda Gardens, a ribbon of green along the line of the former city walls, arcing west towards the cathedral.
Theatre.
Cinema.
L'Arsenal
Cultural centre focusing on music of many genres with performances and courses.
Nothing to do with American football, the name stands for Union Sportive Arlequins Perpignanais. They play rugby union (15 a side) in France's Top 14. The stadium (capacity 14,600) is named for fly-half Aimé Giral, one of seven of their players killed in the First World War.
They play rugby league (13 a side) in Super League, the UK top tier. The playing season is March-Oct. Their stadium (capacity 13,000) is named for rugby player and referee Gilbert Brutus, who joined the Resistance and was killed by the Gestapo.
A sports complex 2 km south of the centre, with natural and synthetic playing pitches, two gymnasiums, a baseball stadium, a health course, a fitness area, a skate park and a climbing wall.
It is a 50-m indoor swimming pool northeast corner of Parc des Sports.
It is a 25-m pool next to Dragons Catalans stadium.
Chain fast food place for burgers.
Tiny café serving coffee, tea and flavored hot chocolates.
Inexpensive place with Italian, French and international fare.
Friendly place for pasta and wood-fired pizza, outdoor seating.
Local cuisine, majoring on seafood.
Trad brasserie with an inexpensive dish of the day.
Lebanese restaurant with meze selections including vegetarian choices.
Quality French cuisine with daily specials.
French cuisine with meat, fish and vegetarian options.
American-style diner for barbecue meat.
Chain steakhouse with BBQ meat and burgers.
Serving trad Portuguese tapas and main meals. It has a terrace and garden, so you can eat outdoors.
"The Butchery" also serves fish, and veggies can gnaw on a salad, but you're here for the meat. Mixed reviews and it's not worth driving out of town for, but it's just off D914 south ring road so it's handy for motorists.
Meat menu, from grills and burgers to tartar.
Italian specialities (not pizza).
Great reviews for the classic French fare here.
French cuisine with a six- or eight-course seasonal tasting menu.
Serving local and Med cuisine, it's in the west suburbs, handy for N116 and D900.
Founded by chef Jean-Marie Pujade, it's a local institution serving modern Catalan classics.
Friendly Irish pub with beers from all over the world. Two large rooms but still very busy after work hours and in the weekend.
Bar serving local wines with Catalan tapas, plus karaoke.
Makes rum and gin.
Budget chain motel on the south outskirts with 70 small rooms.
Basic stopover hotel 3 km north of Rivesaltes off A9. It has 46 rooms, bar, restaurant and pool.
Simple but friendly hotel near the royal palace. Rooms have bathrooms, tv and air con.
Camping maeva Escapades
Well-maintained campsite open all year, with tourer pitches and chalets. It has a pool, a snack-bar, a petanque ground and playground.
Great reviews for the welcome and comfort of this hostel with 49 beds, a kitchen, a library and an area to relax.
Accor chain hotel, clean and comfy, near main highway exits.
formerly Arcantis
Central hotel with 40 smallish rooms, with bathroom and tv. The hotel has a conference room.
Part of the lower mid-range Ibis chain, rooms have Wi-Fi, tv, A/C and private bathrooms.
Opened in 1833, with guests that have included Édith Piaf, Orson Welles and Salvador Dali, but this in now a rather ordinary central trad hotel. All rooms have ensuite bathrooms, TV and air con, some with river views.
A clean simple place 50 m south of Hôtel de France.
Clean well-run friendly motel south of town.
Motel off D900 south of town, with 44 air-con rooms and a restaurant. It's often grubby.
Rather basic hotel with 50 rooms.
Simple hotel 5 km north of airport. 64 rooms (three adapted to disabled guests) with bathroom or shower, tv and air con, some fittings tatty.
Part of the lower mid-range Ibis chain, rooms have Wi-Fi, tv, A/C and private bathrooms.
Part of the Novotel chain, well equipped rooms, restaurant, bar, swimming pool.
5 min walk to Le Castillet
Friendly hotel in the historical centre, with 17 rooms, all with shower, tv and air con.
Smart hotel edge of town in an industrial zone, but secluded from traffic. Spacious rooms, spa, pool, garden and good restaurant.
Boulangerie
Artisan bakery, mainly bread. You can eat a sandwich and drink in a short selection of beverages. Very good quality and nice ambiance.
Artisans shop where many artisan sells their products, from jewellery, clothing, home linen, toiletteries, etc. A place to go to buy something you can not found on big franchises.
FNAC
Three-floor department store with clothing, cosmetics, jewellery and other products.
One of the main supermarkets downtown, with groceries, wellness and DIY products.
Organic and "eco-responsible" products.
Aushopping Porte d'Espagne
Auchan hypermarket is the anchor store on Porte d'Espagne retail park.
By train
By bus
Flixbus runs daily direct from Paris, taking 12 hr 30 min and continuing to Barcelona. Other services from Paris involve changing in Lyon.
By road
Autoroute (La Catalane, toll) follows the coast. From the north join it off near Orange, and follow it past Nîmes, Montpellier, Béziers and Narbonne.
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Perpignan/Rivesaltes · Regional · PGF
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