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Municipal arrondissement in Île-de-France, France
Photo: (WT-en) Mark at English Wikivoyage, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
The 4th is a good chunk of what used to be medieval Paris, and you'll find a lot left from that time on both islands and in the narrow streets of the lower Marais. Meanwhile there's lots that's contemporary to look at especially at the Centre Georges Pompidou where you'll find a lot of the very best contemporary art.
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
The oldest planned square in Paris, and what many tourists as well as locals consider the heart of the Marais area.
The Jewish quarter, with many small delis and shops. Lively on most days except for Saturdays.
Notre Dame Cathedral
The early Gothic Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Our Lady) has a 12th century design but wasn't completed until the 14th. Still it is a good example of the development of the style, though the west or main portal is a bit unusual in its rigidity. An April 2019 fire caused severe damage, but after extensive renovation the cathedral was reopened to the public in December 2024. See item below for separate process to visit towers.
It is possible to visit the towers but you should be aware there are 424 steps, narrow spaces and unlike the cathedral, there is a charge. Tickets for the towers tour do not give access to the cathedral. Booking is required. See above for visiting the cathedral. (separate website)
Town Hall
Many feel that this, Paris' town hall, is one of the loveliest buildings in the city. You might not get that from the front view, but try watching the light change on its roofs and towers during sunset from one of the cafés on the Ile de St. Louis, the Lutece for instance. Alternatively, go to the top floor of the Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville (BHV) department store opposite, on rue de Rivoli and walk up a flight of stairs to the roof terrace (terrasse), from which there is a dramatic view of both the roof of the Hôtel de Ville and the immediate surroundings and river. The present Hôtel de Ville replaced the 16th century original which was burned down during the Commune in 1871. A pastiche of its predecessor, but on a far larger scale, it was designed by the architects Ballu and Deperthes, chosen after a competition, and was mostly completed by 1882. The building is lavishly, and some would say heavy-handedly, decorated both inside and out, and finished in an arrestingly white stone, similar to that used for the even more eye-catching Sacre-Coeur basilica. The statue on the garden wall on the south side is of Etienne Marcel, the most famous holder of the post of "prevôt des marchands" (provost of merchants) which pre-dated the office of mayor. Marcel came to a sticky end, lynched in 1358 by an angry mob after trying to assert the city's powers a little too energetically. The Hôtel de Ville was for many years the private fiefdom of Jacques Chirac, France's president before Sarkozy, and was the site of a scandal centring on both illegal jobs given to Chirac's party members and an immense entertainment budget. General de Gaulle greeted the crowds from a front window in 1944 when Paris was liberated from the Germans and Robespierre was shot in the jaw and arrested in the original building in 1794. Admirers of Hôtel de Ville's architecture will want to know that Ballu also built the Church of La Trinité in the 9th arrondissement and the belfry of the town hall of the 1st arrondissement, opposite the Louvre's east façade. Ballu also restored the Tour St Jacques (see below), which was uncovered after restoration work lasting over a decade.
A Gothic church tower in a square 150m to the west of the Hôtel de Ville was restored by Ballu, is all that remains of Église Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie, which was the meeting place in Paris for pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela. As such it is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
Enter Bastille station through any entrance or on any train and then make your way to the Bobigny/Pablo Picasso-bound platform. All that's left of the fortress whose front steps used to lead up from place de la Bastille are some foundation stones which you can see while waiting for a north bound train on this metro platform. There are maps and explanations showing where the fortress used to be relative the place and surroundings (basically the location of the old front steps are now occupied by Café des Phares).
The Holocaust Memorial
Opened in January 2005, the Holocaust Memorial comprises a major documentation centre and a wall bearing 76,000 names of Jews deported from France to the Nazi camps between 1942-1944. Includes an archive of a million artefacts, including 55,000 photographs. Excursions are run from the memorial to French internment camp sites such as Drancy.
Centre Georges Pompidou closed its doors in 2025, for a major renovation project, which is expected to be completed in 2030. The vast collection of the museum will be exhibited in various venues across France, as part of the Constellation Program. Please see the website for more information. Another site, Centre Pompidou Francilien – fabrique de l’art in Massy, is expected to open in 2027.
Those who are unfamiliar with conceptual art sometimes don't know quite what to expect, or how to approach it. They should rest assured that the curators at the Pompidou Centre have assembled a marvellous introduction consisting of mostly approachable works which delight, amuse, and entertain. The art is far from the only reason for a visit, as the building also contains a vast public library and a fine restaurant (run by the Costes brothers) on the roof. In fact the place is literally surrounded by some of the nicest pavement cafés in the city, in its superb location between the car-free above ground part of Forum Les Halles and the Marais art district.
The house in which the famous French novelist Victor Hugo once lived.
Built in 1625, the Hotel de Sully is an interesting house with some sculptures in a beautiful courtyard. The house features special exhibitions, so check listings when in Paris.
Gallery of photography. The MEP collection spans the history of international photography from the 1950s to the present.
At the corner of rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais, and the rue Rosiers, Chez Marianne—like the many falafel stands in the Pletzle—serves excellent sandwiches out of a walk up window, but unlike some of the others also has an attractive dining room and a truly lovely terrace where you can enjoy a full range of Jewish/middle-eastern dishes.
Good Mexican food to be had within a stone's throw of the Ile de St. Louis. They mix a decent margarita too!
Self-service restaurant, right next to the Pompidou centre. Steaks etc. are cooked fresh when ordered, other food is pre-cooked and there is a microwave in the table area should you need to heat anything up. A chance to try authentic French food at cheap prices. Just one minus - there is a free water and ice dispender next to the microwave, in the table area, AFTER you've paid and probably bought another drink! Price - e.g. one couscous, one steak with mixed vegetables, two pieces of bread, €16.50.
This Brazilian restaurant serves authentic food.
The restaurant serves salty "galette" and sweet "crepes" with cider for a reasonable price. In summertime one can sit nicely outdoor.
A highly recommended and quaint little tea shop, well worth a visit especially for brunch, which at €15.50 is a great value for the quantity, quality, and ambience. The cakes are huge, but if one is too late they might already be gone.
It's all about cheese, with a selection of Swiss dishes, and others.
Cozy, charming space. Attentive service. French cuisine with daily specials.
In the aristocratic décors of the 18th century the chef Bernard Pacaud and his son prepare modern and refined food. The "tarte au chocolat" is surreal.
A beautiful, historical décor in the Art Nouveau style (see the ceiling upstairs); good Alsatian cuisine : choucroute, kuglopf, etc, plus good classic cuisine de brasserie.
On the top floor of the Centre Georges Pompidou, the restaurant Georges offers a panoramic view of Paris. Serves modern French food with classic desserts like "blancs en neige".
The oldest of the many boutiques operated by this gelato (Italian ice cream) maker.
The most renowned French sorbet has his little tea shop since 1954. The wait in the queue is definitely worth it, also with some luck the queue isn't that big. On the corner, the queue for takeaway is usually bigger but, of course, faster. Taking the ice to the Seine is, of course. a possible option.
Little shop that's both a café and sells Italian ice cream. The ice cream flavours vary according to the season.
Friendly staff and customers help create a welcoming atmosphere at the original Scottish pub in Paris. Excellent food is served every day including a hearty brunch. The pub is selling quality British crisps, even smokey bacon flavour. A wide selection of whisky is on offer. Sporting events are shown on eight large television screens. Regular darts and pool competitions take place and Monday night is quiz night.
Since 1992 this otherwise very attractive but fairly standard Parisian café has been host to a lively discussion of contemporary philosophy and attendant issues every Sunday night. There's a political discussion too, on the first Thursday of each month.
This little bistro would be totally unremarkable if it weren't for the location, on the north bank of Ile Saint-Louis, where you can watch the colours of the sunset light play over the towers of the Hôtel de Ville as you enjoy a glass or three of beer or house wine, or maybe a cognac.
The Chaise is one of those truly warm and welcoming cafés. The proprietor usually makes an effort to spend at least a couple of minutes at each table, and somehow manages to remember visitors even years later.
Coffee in Paris is usually found to be lacking, but not in this mini temple to coffee. A gem tucked into a backstreet by the river in le Marais roasts their own beans from around the world and has a small laid-back café area with armchairs. Staff are passionate about great coffee, not just a scaldingly hot coffee! They have some cakes and wine, and speak Spanish and English.
A wonderful little bar with a Brazilian tilt that serves excellent caipirinhas. The staff is friendly and eager to strike up a conversation, especially about cachaça, the Brazilian liqueur that forms the base of their signature drink. It's a wonderful spot for catching a football match as well.
The "salon de thé" serves soufflés and cakes. The small place has 12 tables. The hot chocolate makes the place highly addictable.
Consistently given the highest possible ratings this organization actually runs three hostels in the Marais. The only possible drawback is that they have an afternoon lockout for cleaning. The MIJE Maubuisson on rue des Barres gets the nod of the three for being in an historic Tudor-style building.
In the heart of the city with cheap doubles. Terrific view from 5th floor single room.
A good value for the price and location.
In the calmer part of the Marais, not far from Place de Bastille and Place des Vosges, this little hotel fills up well in advance, so you'll need to book ahead.
A little place done up in all black and white in homage to the cinema, the 7th Art offers a good value on comfortable rooms, and polite, quality service. Single rooms include air conditioning, WC, and shower. A 5-min promenade to the Rue de Rivoli.
You can't beat the location of this no-star but mid-range offering on the Ile de la Cité located on the 6th floor of the Hospital Hôtel-Dieu a functioning hospital which is also classified as an official historical monument. Hôspitel offers quite a bit of service and comfort.
This lovely little three-star is at the far end of the 4th bumped right up against Place de Bastille. The place is inviting and the rooms are quite comfy and air conditioned. The location is good especially if you are interested in fine dining, as the place is surrounded by some of the better bistros on the right bank.
These are of the expected (small) size for Paris though elegantly appointed in 18th-century style. Equipment includes air conditioning. Tea and coffee at the reception. The courtyard is a two-by-two metre light shaft, so rooms facing it have no view, and are quite dark on the ground and first floors. A simple request to avoid them on booking will suffice. The staff speak English well.
On a typical and quiet little street, looking out on the Seine and facing Notre Dame Cathedral. Every room is uniquely styled and decorated and equipped with a complete, marble bathroom.
The rooms are tiny, as is the staircase, but they are also pristine, some of the rooms have shiny marble bathrooms. The staff also gets high marks for professionalism and for general helpfulness.
Just two blocks from the Ile de St. Louis, the Hôtel de Nice offers tiny but lovely rooms. Ask for one with a balcony, some of which have a view of Notre Dame. The furniture is hand-painted with a floral theme which continues throughout the room. The area can be a little loud though, so if you want peace and quiet look elsewhere.
Great location. Can be noisy if you have a room which faces the street.
Stylish, modern and very clean boutique hotel.
Flower Market and Bird Market
On the north side of the Ile de la Cité, the main island at the centre of Paris you'll find a burgeoning daily flower market, where you can buy just about any type of flower, and oddly enough, a range of exotic tropical birds.
Comics (Bandes Dessinées) are a serious art form in France and even regular corporate bookstores have a good selection, but it's much better to look for them where they are really appreciated, in one of Paris's many private BD dealers. This one is friendly, well stocked, and keeps late hours so pay them a visit if you would like to pick up a copy of one of the many volumes of Lone Wolf and Cub in French.
If you love tea, you'll love this old salon de the in the Marais.
Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville
Is a general store with most of everything: clothes, perfumes, furniture, you name it—it's especially famous for its basement section, dedicated to handiwork & DIY --think of it as a small Home Depot in a basement, though with French hardware and house and garden accessories that look distinctive in other settings.
By car
Being such a touristy district, it is very hard to find parking spaces. It's much easier to use the Metro.
By metro
Hôtel de Ville (La Défense/Château de Vincennes, and Châtelet/Mairie des Lilas respectively) - Access from near the junction of Rue de Renard and Rue de Rivoli.
By bus
Unlike the metro, buses can be a great way of moving around and seeing the city's landscape, although you risk being caught in traffic.
Walk, walk and walk! This arrondissement is compact enough to be explored on foot and that's probably just what you'll want to do anyway.
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