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Capital of Karakalpakstan, Uzbekistan
Photo: Ds02006, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Nukus is a city in Karakalpakstan, Uzbekistan. It is the capital of the region However, even by Uzbek standards the town is fairly decrepit and most travellers only stay one night in order to see the Savitsky gallery. Despite this, the locals are a friendly lot. Learn a few words of Karakalpak and you'll be rewarded with delighted smiles.
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Do not miss the Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art's Igor Savitsky Collection with its unique collection of many thousands of works by dissenting artists from the Soviet Union during the period in which Stalinist socialist realism was the only permitted form of Soviet art. The documentary film The Desert of Forbidden Art is all about the collection and its history. Many believe this is the only compelling reason to visit Nukus. The Savitsky Collection is often said by locals to be the best museum in Uzbekistan.
Museum related to the personal belongings of these two stage performers who delved into music and oral culture.
It is quite nice and clean. The shower and toilet are for two rooms. The shower is not that good, but as long as you have hot water, it's tolerable. The water is often turned off.
In the double and triple rooms, there is a good chance that someone will turn up at 23:30 and snore in the bed next to you, so you may want to book all the beds for privacy. Ask to see your room before paying, the quality varies (in particular the bathrooms). Air-con is consistently "just being repaired", water supply is uncertain, and in any case it is preferable to use bottled mineral water even to brush your teeth.
Newly renovated, and now probably the nicest option in town. Double room (single occupancy) with breakfast for 400,000 som (August 2022).
Covered market.
By rail
Trains depart from Tashkent daily and head for Kungrad via Samarkand and Bukhara on the way; these trains stop at Nukus station. The journey takes about 17 hours, the fare is around 170,000 som.
By car
Shared taxis run to and from Urgench, which is a major interchange with taxi connections to Khiva, Bukhara, and the airport.
Taxis are plentiful and cheap: a short hop in town should cost 500-1000 som. Everything you'll want to see is in walking distance.
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Nukus · International · NCU
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