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Munich, Germany
Photo: Ludwig Hohlwein, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
South-West Munich is an area of the city of Munich roughly bounded by the railway tracks north, A99 west, the River Isar east, and the tract of land along A96 south. It's mostly residential, with visitor accommodation and eating places northeast along its boundary with Ludwigsvorstadt. The main attractions are the Flaucher islands in the Isar, the Zoo and Blutenburg castle.
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This is east of the river and district boundary but easier to access from the west bank. The zoo was founded in 1911 to present animals in their habitat, and houses 19,000 animals. An extensive re-building project means that some areas will be closed, check the website for current status. Until April 2023 Jungle World is closed so you can't see the lions, and the bat grotto has permanently closed.
This is a baroque structure of 1712, still in use. It was built on the site of the Sendling Massacre of 1705, which destroyed its predecessor. St Margaret or Marina supposedly lived near Isparta (now in Turkey) around 300 AD, and suffered fantastical tortures at the hands of the Roman governor and a dragon. Post mortem, she was always giving Joan of Arc good advice. Church indulgences (mitigation of punishments in the afterlife) were granted to those who read about her life and works, which fortunately you've just done.
Stadtpfarrkirche St Margaret
Completed in 1913, this is a baroque / rococo church a block south of the old church.
It is part of the same RC parish as the two St Margarets. It's neo-baroque, completed in 1925, bombed in wartime but rebuilt to the same plan by 1951. Corbinian was a 7th century Frankish hermit and bishop. A bear that ate his pack-mule was instructed to carry his bags for the rest of his pilgrimage to Rome, apparently.
This is neo-baroque, completed in 1927 as a larger version of its predecessor of 1569. Achaz or Achatius could be any one of a dozen early Christian figures who were torn to pieces in a spiritually-inspiring fashion.
A street that has several striking modern buildings, especially ADAC (the German Automobile Association) at No 19, and Fraunhofer-Haus at No 27 (a research institute named for the fellow who discovered dark lines in the spectrum of sunlight).
It was created in 1983 to host an International Garden Expo. It's divided by Garmischer Straße and most sights are in the western part: the Rose Garden, the lake with open-air stage for summer concerts and films, a couple of beer gardens (see Drink), and a few exhibits surviving from those shown at Expo. These are the Chinese walled garden, a Japanese garden, Nepali and Thai pagodas and a Bavarian chalet. The eastern part, ranged along the serpentine Mollsee lake, recreates the Alpine foothill landscape south of the city.
This is Munich's largest cemetery, opened in 1907, extended in the 1960s and is still in use, with over 60,000 burial plots. As the name "Wald" indicates, it's a woodland cemetery, with memorials and the funeral chapel semi-hidden in the trees rather than dominating a bare lawn. Those here include ace fighter pilot Hans von Ritter (1886-1917), Stepan Bandera (1909-59) whose status as a hero or right-wing terrorist changes with the Ukrainian political weather, Michael Ende (1929-95) author of The Neverending Story which never did end once film and TV got hold of it, Paul Heyse (1830-1914) winner of the Nobel Prize for literature, film director Leni Riefenstahl (1902-2003), artist Franz Stuck (1863-1928), Admiral Alfred von Tirpitz (1849-1930) and playwright Frank Wedekind (1864-1918).
This was built from 1715 for Elector Maximilian II Emanuel as a hunting lodge and bling-mansion. It's nowadays an RC spiritual centre, so other visitors can only admire the exterior and gardens. One who did so was Joseph Aloisius Ratzinger (b 1927), who found his vocation for the priesthood confirmed here, and became Pope Benedict XVI.
This may date from the 12th century. A new church was added in 1912-16, whereupon the original onion-domed church became a side-chapel. Ulrich was a 10th century Prince-Bishop in Augsburg and military leader against Magyar invasion.
Schloss Blutenburg
This was built in 1438 as a hunting lodge for Albert III, Duke of Bavaria. It was on a river island between two arms of the River Würm, with the east arm dammed to create an ornamental lake - leisure rather than defence was always the intention here, and the ring wall, towers and gatehouse weren't designed against serious assault. It was embellished and extended by Albert's son Duke Sigismund, the stand-out being the chapel of 1488 in late Gothic style. Since 1983 the castle has housed the International Youth Library (Internationale Jugendbibliothek) so there is limited public access to the interior. You enter through the gatehouse into the courtyard. A stepped ramp or "ox piano" leads to the upper courtyard, with the Herrenhaus or mansion. The castle often hosts concerts and other cultural events and has a restaurant. Just outside is a modern sculpture park: notable works are the Spanish stone cross, the "plastic-granite" blocks, the Joseph Michael Neustifter memorial, and the memorial to the 7000 sent on the death march from Dachau just ahead of the Allied advance.
This is Russian Orthodox. You can look in at the church and attend services.
Climbing and bouldering centre
Large indoor bouldering and climbing centre, gets busy out of office hours.
They're better known as a soccer club, but Bayern Munich also play in Basketball Bundesliga, the game's top tier. Their home court is Rudi-Sedlmayer-Halle, sponsored as Audi Dome. It seats 6700 and was built in 1972 for the Olympics.
Culture and activity centre in a disused concrete factory. Activities (many free) include fitness classes, bouldering, basketball and skatepark. Culture includes film, concerts, theatre, art exhibitions and warehouse raves. There's also a beer garden. In summer it hosts Kollektivgarten 3000 electro music festival.
Cultural centre in a former industrial depot with live music venues (Hansa 39, Kranhalle, Orangehouse, Sunny Red), a radio station (Radio Feierwerk 92.4 ), an artist's workshop (Farbenladen) and a skatepark (Skateplatzl).
Small restaurant run by two Sardinian ladies, mixed reviews for quality.
Excellent Thai and other Asian cuisine.
Upscale Bavarian restaurant and beer garden in an 18th century villa.
Lakeside café in Westpark which often hosts live events.
Pleasant beer hall and garden with 3000 seats serving Augustiner beer and trad food. On Sunday from 17:00 they have a live band.
This 1500 seater beer garden is next to Audi Dome (see above) in Westpark and serves Löwenbräu. It remains closed in 2022.
As the name indicates, this is a former mill on an island in the river Würm. In summer the 800-seater beer-garden serves Augustiner beer. The hotel and restaurant are open year-round.
1500-seater beer garden at the western end of the extensive Westpark (described above) serving Paulaner beer and trad food.
2500-seater riverside beer garden, a pleasant bike-ride from the city. They serve Spaten beer and have a self-service buffet for trad food, and you may bring your own food to barbecue and eat at table. The music is not oompah band but jazz.
This restaurant and beer garden is near the south end of the large Flaucher island. It has 1700 seats, serves Löwenbräu beer, and is open in summer whenever the weather is okay for sitting outside. From the U-Bahn or Bus 54 stop, access the island via the R2 bridge.
This club is in a former railway cargo terminal. It's primarily DJ's now and seldom live music.
Small techno nightclub in the very west of Munich in a former brothel with one dance floor and two chillout rooms.
Simple campsite open March-Oct, some noise from autobahn. Normally clean but gets mobbed and squalid during Oktoberfest.
Peaceful bosky campsite open March-Oct on the banks of the Isar.
DJH Jugendherberge München Park
Well run place open year-round, for youth hostel association members only.
Reliable budget chain.
320-room business hotel, concrete bunker from the outside, good service inside.
Efficient hotel with modern interior and a large roof terrace.
Clean comfy small hotel with good public transport.
This is the main outlet of a chain of sports wear and equipment stores, specialising in mountain sports and biking. Their outlet in Laim remains closed.
By road
Road access is straightforward except in rush hour as A99 arcs across the district, with autobahn connections to all points of the compass.
This is a sprawling district though within cycling range. Use S-Bahn, U-Bahn, tram or bus to get around and don't try to use a car, parking is a nightmare.
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