
Northern Laos, Laos
Photo: Bitswonders, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Muang Ngoi Neua is a small riverside village in Northern Laos wedged in between karst mountains at the confluence of the Nam Ngoi and the Nam Ou rivers. It's a low-key destination in a stunning location. Interesting hikes can be made to tribal villages in the area.
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These caves were bomb shelters during the Vietnam War. North of town, about 50 min by foot and can be found without a guide. There is a 10,000 kip toll to enter, to see the village, or to walk past the village. It is claimed this money is for a bridge but if you demand a ticket you will see it is for the cave only and can refuse to pay if you wish. Continue past the caves for about 45 min to reach Ban Na village for lunch, though options are limited.
At the end of the dry season when the water is low, take a cool splash in the Nam Ou or sip from a cocktail on a bamboo chaise longue.
Change your old books for new ones at this 2-for-1 book exchange with more than 300 titles.
Bana, Huay Bo, and Huay Sen
There are guest houses in all 3 villages, costing 50-100k kip for a bungalow.
A steep climb leading to a lookout platform with great views over Muang Ngoi, the Nam Ou and the surrounding mountains. There are two trails and the signs suggest you go up the left hand trail and down the right, however, the left hand trail consists mainly of limestone rock, and bamboo rails, though often loose and shakey, have been installed for safety and easier climbing. The left hand route is steep, and though only 25-35 minutes of climb it can be tricky and scary in parts. The right hand route (signposted for the descent) is relatively easy and mostly mud steps. The land owner will collect the entrance fee once you passed the gate.
If the Phanoy Lookout Point doesn't cut it and you're up for a little challenge, you can ascend the limestone mountain immediately south of Muang Ngoi. There will be a villager collecting the entrance fee right at the gate. The first hour is a steep, slippery climb, with plenty of roots serving as steps, and there are ropes for assistance. You'll come out at an average lookout point with limited views over Muang Ngoi; from here, a more difficult path (taking about another hour) ascends to the peak of the mountain. This part is even steeper in places, more slippery with less holds and no ropes to hold onto save for a few near the peak. Wear shoes with good grip, go slow and make extensive use of the bamboo, trees and stones to avoid falling. Do not go alone unless you have experience with this kind of environment. The effort is rewarded by a magnificent view over the valley behind the mountain, with the Nam Ou river slowly disappearing in the foggy mountains in the distance. A few metres to the right when reaching the peak, you can climb to a flag which provides another fine view over Muang Ngoi.
There are a couple of street stalls selling bbq sticks, or fried goodies such as battered bread (2k), coconut battered banana (1k), and fried taro and coconut balls (1k), and bags of banana chips (5k) and fried riverweed (10k). The riverweed in particular is very tasty when fried and much cheaper than in the restaurants, it also goes particularly well with beer so if you've snagged yourself a nice balcony, grab a beer (15k) and while away the afternoon in your hammock.
Good Lao food and cold Beerlao. Makes its own bread and pizza dough. Closed during off season.
Solid and clean. Boasts big wooden balcony and marble table seats on the grass.
Tasty Indian and Lao food.
Nicksa's Place has 2 restaurants, 50 m away from each other on the main road. The furthest one offers good prices and a very quiet view on the river.
Big open-air terrace overlooking the Nam Ou. Best view in town.
All-you-can-eat breakfast buffet. Food in buffet is not anything special but good quantity for the money. 2 cocktails for 1 during happy hour. First house on the main street with a stone step.
Run by a friendly local couple. Deck with nice wooden tables and chairs, but not much other decoration. Free WiFi. While the menu is not as extensive as other restaurants in town and the atmosphere is lacking, the food is of fine quality and good value for money.
Nice spot completely at the long end of the main road on the left. Bar with stools, couches and fireplace. Great Italian red wine.
A nice bar/restaurant, good (if not the same every day) music selection. Friendly owner and staff. 20,000 kip for a cocktail during the happy hour. Their Lao food (or Lam, Suzy, etc.) is also great, ask for spicy (if you can tolerate it) for a more authentic experience.
2 modern bungalows with excellent views and several older bungalows. A lovely old couple run it.
Upmarket choice. Hardwood bungalows with en suite bath, nice garden and good restaurant.
Riverside bungalows with attached bath, and two hammocks for each bungalow. Wi-Fi at the reception as well as a restaurant. Friendly staff. Seems to be one of the best budget options.
Clean wooden bungalows overlooking the Nam Ou.
Bungalows with private bath, comfy beds, and superb view over the river. Has a big book collection in the guesthouse on the main street.
3-storey concrete building with restaurant overlooking the river, close to the boat steps, tallest building in town. Basic rooms with fan and mosquito net. Better take a look on the mattress before checking in, they are not necessarily cleaned on regular basis (if ever).
Private bungalows with hammock in a hidden away spot deep inside the village. Great outdoor seating with bar & restaurant. Restaurant closed during low season. Bungalows come with basic bathroom, hot shower and mosquito net.
Solid and clean bungalows with riverview about two thirds down the main road, turn right at Meen restaurant. 50,000 kip.
Offers 3 bungalows with river view, down the main road. Spacious and clean bungalows, with mosquito net, attached bathroom, balcony and hammock. 60,000 kip (high season) for the biggest bungalow (two persons in a three beds room).
From the north
From Muang Khua it is 5-hour boat ride (200-350k kip Nov 2022).5 million kip (Nov 2022).
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