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Borough in Mexico City, Mexico
Photo: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ivangm/, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
This relatively large area in the southwest of Mexico City has always been a counterculture hotbed. This is where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived, a few blocks away from Leon Trotsky (their houses are now the Frida Kahlo Museum and the Leon Trotsky Museum, respectively), and the tranquil residential area, with parks, squares, and cobblestone streets, is now a favourite spot for the bohemia set.
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Rectory building of UNAM
For David Alfaro Siqueiros fans, the rectory building is of interest because of its large three-dimensional mosaic mural El pueblo a la Universidad, la Universidad al pueblo (The People to the University, the University to the People), created by the Mexican master from 1952-1956.
Central Library
The building's four sides are covered by the mural Historical Representation of Culture, created by the Mexican artist Juan O'Gorman. His masterpiece has become the most iconic building of UNAM and of Mexican culture. O'Gorman's mural is recognized as the largest mural in the world.
University Museum of Contemporary Art
This museum hosts temporary exhibits of contemporary Mexican and international artists, as well as rotating displays from its permanent art collection.
UNAM Botanical Garden
Large botanical garden showcasing thousands of plant species from across Mexico's many different ecosystems, including dry deserts, rocky mountain ranges, tropical and sub-tropical rainforests, and coastal wetlands. The gardens include an extensive collection of cacti. Visitors may be surprised at the extent of the collection (and Mexico's astounding biodiversity - the country is home to more plant and animal species than both the United States and Canada combined).
Olympic Stadium
The stadium actually pre-dates the 1968 Olympics for which it is named. The exterior has a large mural by Diego Rivera titled La Universidad, la familia y el deporte en México; the mural was created between 1952 and 1954. The stadium is used for university athletics and is home field for the Pumas soccer team.
Comprehensive science and technology museum with exhibits for all ages. Paleontology (dinosaur bones), astronomy (includes a planetarium), chemistry, physics, there are even exhibits that make math look like fun! It's a large museum, so plan to spend most of the day here.
Sometimes dubiously described as the world's largest outdoor sculpture, the Espacio Escultórico is a round ring reminiscent of a modernized Stonehenge. It is a wide path lined with angular stone monoliths surrounding a patch of natural volcanic rock.
MUCA
Open interdisciplinary exhibition space. Typically has an exhibition on a specific topic for a period of a few months, then shuts down until a new exhibition is prepared. (Check the official website for events, other sources are unreliable.)
Museum of Pathological Anatomy
Three-legged chickens, cats born with 1 eye, organs destroyed by tapeworms, these are just a few of the gross biological deviances that you'll see on display in this very strange and unsettling museum. Guided tours available.
La Conchita
Built in 1521 under Cortés, this is believed to be the earliest Christian building in Mexico City.
Church of St John the Baptist
One of the oldest churches in Mexico, it was built by Franciscan missionaries between 1522 and 1552. The church is spectacularly beautiful, built in a baroque style and elaborately decorated with interior architectural detail and historic artwork including paintings and sculpture. An interior courtyard and small side chapels offer space for quiet spiritual reflection.
Cortés had this house built for his Nahua mistress/interpreter, and many historians believe that he had his Spanish wife murdered here. Despite the house's historic and aesthetic significance, it is not marked by any plaques as many Mexicans today consider la Malinche a traitor. The building is not open to the public, but can be appreciated from outside.
Frida Kahlo Museum
Also known as La Casa Azul, this walled hacienda painted brilliant indigo blue, is where the much-revered Mexican artist spent the last years of her life. Admission includes access to the courtyard, a small series of galleries with ever-changing displays, and the historical portion of the house, which has been preserved from the days when Kahlo was alive. A small snack bar and museum shop are also on the premises, and lectures are given periodically. An iPod tour can be taken for an extra fee and if you'd like to take pictures or videos, an extra fee of M$30 will be assessed. Tickets tend to sell out a week (or more!) in advance, so if you really want to visit this site, reserve your ticket online early.
Artist and muralist Diego Rivera built this structure to serve both as his studio and a museum to hold his collection of pre-Columbian art. The imposing neo-Aztec building sits in a parklike environment that is one of the few wildlife refuges in Mexico City. Guided tours of the main structure (in Spanish only) are given every hour or so. There is also a small gallery where art, music, and dance lessons, lectures, and concerts are held; check the placard at the entrance for details on what is being offered for the month. Secondary school groups make frequent outings.
Leon Trotsky Museum
After being expelled from the Soviet Union, and subsequently from Turkey, France and Norway, Marxist theorist Leon Trotsky was granted asylum in Mexico, where he settled in Coyoacán in 1937. He continued to be vocally critical of Stalin's policies, however, and in 1940 he was assassinated in his home. The museum preserves the house in much the condition as it was in Trotsky's last days.
This museum offers homage to the many different indigenous cultures of Mexico, celebrating folk art, music, gastronomy, and more. They also have an impressive bookshop with art for sale from skilled artisans from all over the country.
Alfredo Guati Rojo National Watercolor Museum
Housed in the former residence of Mexican artist Alfredo Guati Rojo, the museum is dedicated to preserving and exhibiting watercolor painting, by Mexican and international artists. Pieces in its permanent collection span from pre-Hispanic to modern times, and the building is a venue for temporary exhibits.
Large museum with more than 4,000 square meters of exhibition space showcasing 120 historic cars dating back as far as 1904.
Casa Rojo
This is the home where four generations of the Kahlo family grew up and lived. Although Frida Kahlo was the most famous of Guillermo's children, he actually had an interesting life that ultimately had a big impact on Frida's worldview.
Designed by Mexican architect Manuel Rocha Díaz and completed in 1984, the Cineteca is dedicated to the preservation and showing of films in Mexico. This is a venue for current releases as well as classic films, and hosts a number of film festivals throughout the year.
Parque Nacional Viveros de Coyoacán
Look for a small, green stucco building, without even a sign over the door, with the only indication that it's a cafe in this residential neighborhood are the tables and chairs out on the sidewalk. True to its hippie, progressive environment, this tiny cafe serves organic pastries and coffee, and has some Indian food on the menu (samosas, mango lassi). Try the green tea cake with ice cream, also made of green tea.
This is a very old, family-owned coffee roaster's shop, and there are now at least three locations in Coyoacán. They have really good and cheap coffee, bad and cheap tortas (sandwiches in French bread), and reasonably standard American-style donuts. There are benches on the sidewalk just outside the Jarocho shops where you can sit to drink your coffee, or you can do like everyone else in Coyoacán and just stroll around the park with your Jarocho foam cup in your hand. On weekends, expect to wait in line to order your coffee. A long wait in line for coffee, a bag of fresh churros, and a conversation in Coyoacán's plaza is a quintessential Mexico City date.
A comfortable goth hangout. There is a really good bakery next door.
A perennial student hangout, also serving baguettes and cakes.
Very good Mexican food. Don't miss the chiles en nogada, large chiles stuffed with ground beef, raisins, and nuts, and covered with a nut cream sauce. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service can be a bit slow though.
The "Octopus's Garden" is a casual marisqueria, or seafood place, featuring ceviche, seafood paella, whole roast fish, and even fish and chips. Dining is cafeteria-style at long tables under an awning. If you want fresh juices, agua frescas, or ice cream, those are available from two shops next door.
Somewhat pricey modern international cuisine with twists on traditional Mexican dishes. They also bottle and sell their own brand of mezcál. Try the seafood-chipotle chili soup, the goat cheese-filled chicken breast with chipotle chili sauce, and, if you can afford the $200 price tag, the escamoles (ant eggs) sol azteca as a starter (small, but can be shared between two people).
Very good Mexican food and good drinking with the locals; Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera used to spend time here. Don't miss the "Mole," "Michele's favorite" or carne tartara. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service is good, make friends with the Meseros; they are cool. Mariachis and a garden terrace also appeal.
La Bipo
A tacky-fun restaurant/cantina owned by Mexican actor Diego Luna. Good place to go for drinks and a light meal. Try the shrimp burrito.
Probably the best Japanese food in Mexico City, owned by Japanese. Many Japanese people come here for lunch and dinner, so they attest to the authenticity of the meals – you won't find maki rolls with cream cheese here. Don't miss their spicy octopus entrée and the ice-cream tempura for dessert.
Just off of the Plaza Hidalgo, this little hole in the wall has some of the best traditional food in Mexico City. Their flautas are especially delicious, both the cheese (queso) and steak (barbacoa) variety. A tight squeeze (they don't seat very many), but well worth it, and very clean. An order of flautas (brings 4) is $28 MXN ($7 apiece – best deal anywhere for something this good); quesadillas and tostadas are $7 each, and tacos $10; they also offer tortas and other traditional dishes. Very fast, efficient service. Located on Aguayo, north of the Plaza Hidalgo. If you are in the Jardín Hidalgo, with your back to the garden/kiosk and facing the colonial Casa Municipal, head left in front of the Casa Municipal and make a right on Aguayo (round the corner where the Banamex is). Stay on the right sidewalk; the taquería will be past the Restaurant El Tizoncito and Rosticería Molinos, and across the street from a BANORTE. A red awning hangs in front; the name is found only on the menu board inside.
One of the best sorbets in the city. Try the ones made from exotic fruits: guanábana, zapote, maracuya, tuna (cactus fruit). The coconut-flavored paletas (popsicles) are also a treat.
Nieves el Tepozteco
Features excellent flavors such as Beso de Angel (angel kiss), Mil Floes (thousand flowers) and spicy sorbets!
Churros are not too popular in Mexico City, but there are a number of places in Coyoacán (including street stands) that have them. The Churreria is a good place with excellent churros and you can fill it with a number of ingredients, like chocolate, fresa (strawberry), durazno (peach), lechera (milk), zarzamora (blackberry) and more.
The main plaza, at different times of the year, might have street food vendors that sell extremely good flautas (long, deep fried tacos), as well as buñuelos (deep fried sugar-coated bread), esquites, and elotes (corn with chile, mayonnaise, lime, and cheese).
These are some of the most famous street tacos in Mexico City. Their speciality is the chupacabra taco, a combination of pork, beef and a 'secret ingredient'.
Locals pack El Hijo del Cuervo which plays a mixture of rock and protest music.
Cabaret venue that showcases music, theatre and cabaret shows. Shows are in Spanish.
Fascinating and fun bar, grill, garden, and nightclub. Just 2 blocks from the Frida Kahlo house, it makes a great lunch spot. In the evening the place comes alive with a more party crowd. Good selection of craft beers and artesanal tequilas and mezcals. Outdoor garden area with tables.
Modern, upscale hotel on a busy thoroughfare. Not really in Coyoacan, but closest big hotel.
Barebones hostel for budget travelers. Excellent location, easy walk to mercado and zocalo.
Elegant small hotel set in a historic mansion. Gardens with roaming peacocks, large rooms with chandeliers etc. Service can be hit or miss.
Budget hostel in a quiet residential neighborhood. Rates include free breakfast. 2-minute walk to Frida Kahlo House, 10-minute walk to Coyoacan Metro station.
A traditional Mexican market with a large selection of produce and food items as well as other goods; Frida Kahlo used to shop herself. There are also a number of food stalls here, making this a good place to stop for lunch.
An arts and crafts market with good quality items.
Fair trade store that offers a beautiful selection of traditional Mexican folk art and an eclectic assortment of jewelry, textiles, Mexican-kitsch, nichos, Day of the Dead images, market bags, masks, milagros, etc. – varied but carefully curated. The upstairs gallery displays Mexican contemporary artwork.
This place sells lots of vintage items, including china ware, toys, paintings, and ornaments.
By microbus
If you don't fancy a 20-minute walk from Metro Coyoacan to the main square Plaza Hidalgo, you can take a microbus also known as a pesero.
By bus
If you are coming to Coyoacan from outside the Mexico City metro area, the best bus station to arrive/depart is Taxqueña (also known as Central de Sur).
By bike
Coyoacán is one of the easiest parts of Mexico City to get around by bike. Traffic moves slower and there are wide secondary streets that get relatively little traffic.
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