Northern part of Manhattan, New York City
Photo: via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Upper Manhattan is a large, relatively under-visited area that ranges from 125th Street to Inwood Hill Park on the west and from 96th Street northward on the east (where the island of Manhattan tapers off unevenly). The area includes Harlem, recognized globally as a center of African American culture and business and home to America's historic Black nationalist movements, and East (Spanish) Harlem. Other areas of interest include the neighborhoods of Washington Heights, a center of Dominican culture in New York and the home of The Cloisters (a Medieval-themed branch of the Metropolitan Museum) and the huge Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center; and Inwood, the home of the last remains of the marshes and forests that once covered the island.
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Located on four acres overlooking the Hudson River in Fort Tryon Park, the building incorporates elements from five medieval French cloisters – quadrangles enclosed by a roofed or vaulted passageway, or arcade – and from other monastic sites in southern France. There are various artworks on display in the museum, with the Unicorn Tapestries being the most famous.
The former residence of William Dyckman, who owned several hundred acres of farmland covering much of what is now Inwood and Washington heights. Nestled incongruously at the otherwise unremarkable corner of 204th and Broadway, the farmhouse has been converted into a small museum of life in early Manhattan and hosts various programs for the neighborhood. The "Hessian Huts" in the back yard are a leftover from the British occupation of Manhattan during the Revolutionary War!
The only US museum devoted to Puerto Rican culture.
Built in 1802 (and physically shifted from its original location), this was the home of Alexander Hamilton, one of the founding fathers and the first Secretary of Treasury.
A museum and library devoted to Spanish, Portuguese, and Latin American art and culture.
Built in 1765, this is the oldest house on Manhattan Island. It served as George Washington's headquarters in 1776. Now a museum set on a 1.5-acre park, it features a decorative-arts collection representing the colonial and Revolutionary War periods. Washington's office is among the 12 restored rooms.
Rather large, interesting museum with all kinds of documentation of events in the 400-year history of this city and delightful artifacts of life in earlier periods, such as the extensive collection of 19th-century dollhouses complete with miniature furniture.
A main research branch of the New York Public Library, this is a repository of priceless documents and also has various exhibitions on themes related to black history and culture.
The first museum in the U.S. devoted to artists of African descent. Temporarily relocated from 144 W 125th St building for construction of new museum building.
Street built by architect Samuel Burrage Reed. A major mansion owned by circus entrepreneur Anthony Bailey - joined with showman Phineas T. Barnum in 1881 to form the Barnum & Bailey circus. Now Known to the children of Harlem as the Beauty and the Beast house.
Once the Audubon Ballroom where Malcolm X was assassinated with 21 gunshots. Only a part of the facade of the original building remains (Columbia University demolished the building in 1992). The location now houses a memorial to Malcolm X and Betty Shabazz, with a stated goal of advancing human rights and social justice. It also features a 63-foot mural depicting Malcolm X's life.
St. Nicholas Historic District
Million-dollar homes in an unlikely neighborhood.
This New York City landmark started accepting black guests in 1940, becoming one of the few hotels in the city to do so. This led it to become a mixing point for notable African Americans of the time, and through the 1940s and 50s it was the center of black Harlem social community. It also gained notoriety when Fidel Castro chose to stay here for the 1960 UN General Assembly. Its ornamentation makes it one of the most visually striking buildings in Northern Manhattan.
One of New York's most beautiful parks, an expanse of rolling hills high above the Hudson, contains some of the highest natural elevations on the island and is a great place to picnic or stroll in good weather and look at the great views of the New Jersey Palisades across the river.
This beautiful park extends along the Hudson River north of Riverside Park and features wonderful views of the George Washington Bridge and New Jersey and a community feel.
Inwood Hill Park contains the last tracts of virgin forest in Manhattan. Many arrowheads and other artifacts of the former Native American occupants of Manhattan Island have been found in this park.
An elevated walkway and jetty provides access to the only natural salt marsh remaining in Manhattan, and expansive views of the Hudson River and the cliffs of Spuyten Duyvil in the Bronx across the river.
Mount Morris Park
One of the oldest parks in Manhattan. The elegant brownstones on the western and southern sides of the park hint at the former grandeur of the neighborhood (many were built in the 1880s). The Acropolis, a lookout seventy feet above street level gives views of the Empire State Building, the George Washington Bridge, and Yankee Stadium. The Firetower, a landmark 1857 building (closed off for reconstruction as of 2019), is the only surviving example of 19th-century fire watchtowers. This park is very popular with locals and has a relaxed vibe. There is a dedicated Drum Circle area of the park and others come with sound systems to play old-school soul and funk, dance, ride bikes, etc. It also has a swimming pool.
A riverfront park providing pleasant views of New Jersey and sometimes breezes off the river. Summer brings al fresco movies and music to the park.
The legendary Apollo Theater, "where stars are born and legends made", is a source of pride for Harlem, and a symbol of American artistic achievement. The Apollo is best known for its world-famous Amateur Night at the Apollo, which launched the careers of legendary artists like Ella Fitzgerald, James Brown, Michael Jackson, D'Angelo and Lauryn Hill. The Apollo remains the nation's most popular arena for emerging and established black and Latino performers.
Amateur Night at the Apollo celebrated its 75th Anniversary in 2009 as the quintessential talent competition, serving as the model for Star Search and American Idol. Competitions are held nearly every Wednesday evening throughout the year, culminating with the "Super Top Dog" competition. The show marries world-class talent with a distinctive, vaudeville-like atmosphere, and has depended on audience participation since the very beginning. The popularity contest has proven an effective measure of star potential, becoming a launch pad for some of the nation's greatest entertainers.
One of the most charmingly intimate jazz venues anywhere is simply Marjorie Eliot's apartment in Harlem. It's somewhat a jam session, although there are regulars, drawing an attentive and eclectic crowd including music students from China, neighbors from the building, and everyone in between. Seating is first come, first served, so it does make sense to be there by 4PM. As friendly and hospitable as it gets, people will come around with cookies and juice during breaks. Note that getting off the subway at 155th St will require a long, steep climb up steps to get from lower 155th to Edgecombe.
Classic, tasty soul food, friendly service.
A Dominican restaurant famous for its pollo a la brasa (rotisserie chicken) has its flagship in this neighborhood. Go there and enjoy the food, the fresh-squeezed juice, and the Latin music on the jukebox.
This is a great Puerto Rican luncheonette, serving excellent pollo a la brasa (roast chicken), glazed with a tasty sauce and cooked till tender, with garlic sauce available to add to taste. They are also known for their pernil (pork shoulder) and serve various daily specials. If you like spicy food, try their "hot sauce", which is actually a delicious slaw of lightly pickled sliced onions, tomatoes and hot peppers. This place is a throwback, with nothing but several stools at the counter. Service is friendly. Open hours are until the closing time or whenever they run out of food.
The delicious rugelach in this bakery come in three flavors: chocolate, apricot and raspberry. A variety of other goods are baked as well. The rugelach are fairly large, $3 apiece, and worth it.
Fresh bagels made in-house daily.
This is great old-school New York coal-oven pizza. Don't go overboard on the toppings, which are not the reason why you should go there. Get a plain pizza, and enjoy the wonder of a thin, nicely charred crust with delicious sauce and cheese that aren't heaped on but applied judiciously in a style that derives clearly from its origins in Naples. A couple should be able to down a pie or two with some salad without trouble for a meal, because the crust is so thin, but note that you can also get slices for takeout.
A restaurant of Marcus Samuelsson, who is from Ethiopia with adoptive Swedish parents. The cuisine is a mix of different influences, with nods to traditional soul food, classic Swedish fare, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia. Tables can be hard to come by without a reservation, and you might not get a friendly hostess, but the restaurant by itself is reason enough to take the trip uptown.
Anglo-Caribbean.
Two words sum this place up: juke joint. A real one. It's a dive bar hosted by the local American Legion with basic soul food, good company, and jam sessions three nights a week. Sunday is the night to come if you want to see some really good musicians come in and light up the Hammond organ. F-Sa they have basically an R&B dance party, but as of 2013 the Fridays have become member only (hopefully this policy won't extend to other nights in the future, as this place gets better known outside the neighborhood!). No cover (although you are required to "sign in" for some reason), but you will be expected to be spending money: think of it as a vague drink minimum, and order food if you take a table.
Bill Saxton, clearly a man destined to play the sax. His Coltrane-like performances are among the best you'll see in the city, but you'll see them here in his own basement apartment with a crowd of just 25 aficionados on a street heavy with jazz history. Previously unbeknownst to Bill, his apartment was one of many jazz-filled speakeasies on 133rd, and was where Billie Holiday got her start and Fats Waller's left hand strode mightily upon the keys. BYOB (and bring cups if you don't want to drink out of the bottle). Make reservations by the kind of confusing process of leaving a voice message (or you could try the less-reliable online form), then show up around 8:30PM and buzz yourself in.
This is the upscale (and pricey) option for live jazz and other music in Harlem, with a beautiful, classy space, room for dancing, and fine dining (think soul food steakhouse with craft cocktails). Sundays see the gospel brunch, for which reservations are a must. Check the calendar for who's playing and dress to impress.
Has a Health and Wellness Center and a heated swimming pool.
By commuter train
The Metro-North Railroad has a station at 125th Street and Park Avenue with easy connections to and from the Hudson Valley and Connecticut.
By bus
There is plenty of MTA bus service to the area.
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