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Municipality in Reutte, Tyrol, Austria
Photo: David Short from Windsor, UK, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Lermoos is a village in the Außerfern, Northwest Tyrol in Austria. It sits at 1,004 m on a sunny shelf above a wide flat moor basin, staring straight across at the Zugspitze. It is one of seven villages in the Tiroler Zugspitz Arena, and it is the one most people picture when they picture an Austrian ski village: small, wooden, clustered around a lift station, with a mountain view that does most of the work.
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Parish church of St Catherine
The parish church dates in its present form from the 18th century. There is a small plague chapel just above it, and a scattering of wayside chapels around the village.
A small private museum opened in 2006 in the old manor house, covering the history of the Drei Mohren inn: 300 years of legal practice, a century as the post station, old salt ledgers and documents, and the preserved room of King Ludwig II. Genuinely more interesting than the word "museum" suggests.
One of the old village residences, worth a look from outside if you are wandering.
Free parking at the valley station. Grubig II keeps shorter hours than the lower section, which matters in the shoulder seasons.
Outdoor pool with three basins, a water slide and, as advertised, the panorama.
9-hole course on the eastern edge of Lermoos in Ehrwald.
Pizza, pasta and grills, cheap, enormous menu, consistently busy. The terrace is on the main road so it is not exactly peaceful. Reserve a day ahead in season.
Right by the ski hill and the go-to for a lunch that is not schnitzel: burritos and bowls sit oddly but happily alongside a very good Kaiserschmarrn.
Brettlalm am Gschwandtkreuz
Self service, big all-weather terrace facing the Zugspitze. Food takes a while when it is busy because it is cooked to order, so do not turn up starving with a lift to catch.
Lermooser Alm
Short menu, own farm produce, homemade sausage and dairy. Worth the walk on its own. Viewing platform a few minutes away.
Evenings only. Schnitzel and mixed grill platters in portions that verge on comedy. Cosy, quick, friendly, and popular enough that you should book.
Large place split between indoor rooms and a terrace, pizza and grilled meats, generous portions, staff happy to switch to English.
The terrace has the best view of any restaurant in the village, and there is an unusually good spread of vegetarian and vegan dishes for a Tyrolean village kitchen. Play area for children.
Grill platters and Tyrolean staples in a warm wood-panelled room.
Asian food and sushi, which sounds like a bad idea in a village of 1,150 people and really is not. Modern room, valley view, family run. Books out, so call ahead.
Steaks, Alpine char, and a kitchen that does more with vegetables than most places around here. Portions are sensible rather than Tyrolean, and the prices reflect the ambition.
The four-star superior hotel's restaurant is open to non-residents and does a proper multi-course dinner. Also worth knowing about for its day spa, which is a decent rainy-day plan.
The big après-ski tent, and about as loud as you would expect. Beers are pre-poured at peak times.
Small bar and the more relaxed alternative to the Ente. Ski school groups pile in around four. Good in summer too, which is rare here.
Umbrella bar right at the lift, cocktails, board games, and a soundtrack that has swung towards heavier stuff since a change of ownership.
About ten minutes' walk from the village. Cheap, clean facilities, and guests get free entry to the nearby outdoor pool. Being beside a petrol station sounds worse than it is, though there is some road and rail noise.
Short walk into the village and handy for the valley cycle routes. Pitches are tight, and the gate shuts at 22:00, which has caught people out.
On the Loisach, below the Marienberg lifts. Very friendly, excellent sanitary block, and usually quieter than the Lermoos sites.
Well placed for the Ehrwalder Alm bus and so for the Seebensee. Restaurant on site, walk downhill to the supermarket.
Large and unusually well equipped, with private bathrooms, indoor and outdoor pools and saunas. At 1,225 m, so cool at night. Fifty metres from the Zugspitze cable car.
Family-run, every room has a balcony, breakfast on the terrace with the Zugspitze in front of you. Small and consistently well liked.
Central, reasonable prices, decent restaurant and terrace.
Quiet position close to the slopes. Half-board guests report being seated separately from à la carte diners, so ask about tables if the view matters to you.
Older-fashioned in style, with sauna, gym, table tennis and a very good reputation for service. Tesla Supercharger nearby.
Larger place on the main road with a modern spa. The railway runs behind it, so ask for a room away from the tracks if you are a light sleeper.
Four-star superior with 59 rooms and suites plus a penthouse, indoor and outdoor pools and a large spa. Open all year. The upper-floor mountain-view rooms are the ones to ask for.
Family run and noticeably quieter than most. Half board is the way to book it.
Large, well-run, indoor pool and sauna, very strong breakfast.
The design-led option, with a rooftop pool and sauna looking at the slopes, and Ox & Ehrlich downstairs.
A serious family resort with childcare, pools and slides. Worth it only if you have children, in which case it is very hard to beat.
formerly Gasthof Zu den Drei Mohren
The old Drei Mohren, now a large spa hotel with extensive grounds and fishing rights on several of the local lakes. The museum is on site.
By plane
The nearest airport is Innsbruck, about 75 km by road over the Fernpass. Munich is the bigger option at roughly 140 km, and has far more connections plus a direct train link most of the way.
By train
Lermoos has a station on the Außerfernbahn, a single-track line running from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Reutte and on to Pfronten and Kempten, crossing the border twice.
By bus
Regional buses connect Lermoos with Reutte and, over the Fernpass, with Imst and Innsbruck. Local lines link the villages inside the Arena and the lift valley stations.
By car
The Fernpass is the problem. It is one of the main Alpine crossings for German holiday traffic and it jams badly on summer weekends and at the start and end of German school holidays.
The village is small enough that you can walk from one end to the other in about fifteen minutes, and the lift base station, most hotels and all the restaurants are inside that radius.
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