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Capital of Sudan
Photo: No machine-readable author provided. Sudani assumed (based on copyright claims)., Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Khartoum (Arabic: الخرطوم Al-Khartum) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue and White Niles merge to form the Nile. The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities (Khartoum, Khartoum North or Bahri, and Omdurman) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms. The Blue Nile flows between Khartoum and Bahri, the White Nile between Khartoum and Omdurman, and the merged Nile between Bahri and Omdurman. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile, known as Al-Mogran, lies just north of the bridge between Khartoum and Omdurman.
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This museum is located in the grounds of the Presidential Palace and is housed in the impressive century old Palace Cathedral. The palace contains many relics and pieces related to Sudan's administrative and modern political history, from paintings of Sir Gordon Pasha to the Presidential cars of more recent rulers.
If you have the stamina, you will reach the confluence of the two branches of the Nile if you continue walking west along Nile Street for about 3–4 km from the Presidential Palace. The confluence is called Al-Mogran and it is best seen from the metal bridge (the old one, not the newer concrete one) linking Khartoum and Omdurman or Al-Mogran Family Park. It is said that one can actually see the two different colours from the different branches come together and flow separately for a distance downriver before mixing together. The Al-Mogran Family Park, which has a Ferris wheel and other rides, is located near the bridge. Warning: There is a signboard saying "no photos" from the bridge. Please heed it as people have been arrested for taking photos of the confluence!
If you want to see crowds and action, this is the place. The commercial heart of town, Souq Arabi (Arabian Market) can provide everything you need (see "Buy" section for more details on shopping options). The market is huge and spread over several squares in the center of Khartoum proper just south of the Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir) and the minibus station. Come here to see Khartoumites go about their daily lives.
متحف السودان القومي
Surprisingly impressive museum that has had a bit of a revamp. The large hall contains exhibits that rival those in the ancient Egypt sections of the British Museum or the New York Met, however if you’ve arrived in Khartoum fresh from temple gazing in Egypt things may look familiar. The gardens contain three temples relocated from Aswan. The joy of the place is that you’ll have it all pretty much to yourself. Best visit in the mornings, and give yourself 2 hours, tends to close at 12:00 but not reopen at 15:00, contrary to the sign on the door.
A fascinating little museum on the corner of Al Gamaa street and Mak Nemir Avenue. This museum explores the various cultures and traditions of Sudan's numerous ethnic groups. Displays range from intricate handicrafts to models of traditional homes. This museum is certainly worth a visit, if you have the time.
مسجد الملك فاروق
Neo-Romanesque Roman Catholic cathedral, built in 1908.
Said to be one of the largest markets in Africa and you can get handicrafts here. The handicraft street is quite difficult to find - it is towards the northern end of the market, near the gold section (not on the western side, as stated in the Bradt guide). The street is actually a covered lane between two buildings with gates at either end. It's not very busy (in comparison with the rest of the market) and they can lock up and go home in the evenings, and sometimes on Fridays also.
قُبَّة
Burial place of Muhammad Ahmad, the leader of an Islamic revolt against the Ottoman-Egyptian occupation of Sudan in the late 19th century.
Abdullah al-Taaisha, also known as "The Khalifa" succeeded as leader of the Mahdists on the death of the Mahdi. His house is now a museum and is worth a visit if you want to get a flavour of Omdurman's history. Exhibits include various remnants from old battles and some interesting old British newspaper clippings reporting the British efforts in the Sudan.
aka dhikr/whirling dervishes
Rightly recommended as a must do for visitors to Khartoum. Every Friday (except during Ramadan) tourists and visiting foreign aid workers flock to the Hamed al-Nil tomb with cameras in hand. A very colourful and noisy celebration. It's about 2 km south of the Omdurman souq - ask your taxi driver to go to Ghobba al-Hamed al-Nil.
a fascinating place to explore, and well off the Khartoum tourist trail (if Khartoum even has such a thing). Tomahawked in 1998 the remains are an eerie reminder of Sudan's precarious relationship with the West. It's quite easy to reach - get a minibus to Bahri, then get a taxi. The guards are quite friendly and will let you in for a wander - a contribution would be gratefully received.
Every Friday at 16:00 two teams of wrestlers battle it out in front of several hundred spectators – and it certainly is quite a spectacle and well worth the trip. Finishes around 18:00 and cost SDG 2. It’s about 12 km from central Khartoum next to souq Sita Al Haj Yousef – best get a taxi there but you can easily find a bus back to al-Arabi in central Khartoum for SDG 3-5.
Ruined fortress on the top of Umm Marrahi hill, the defences was built in the 2nd half of the 6th century AD by the kingdom of Alwa.
Italian flavoured, offering pleasant al fresco dining, priced with the expat wallet in mind.
Big, airy and spotless, and really good food. Extremely popular with locals and visitors. Menu offers shawarmas, kebabs, grilled chicken, lamb stews and others, all accompanied by bread, soup and salad. Delicious fruit juices and shakes too.
Another popular place a few doors from Amwaj.
Nice place to eat in. They have another branch in Ryad area.
Located on the first floor of Khartoum's only shopping mall.
Would be considered an excellent restaurant in any city, and a Jewel in Khartoum. Good atmosphere with professional and knowledgeable wait staff. They have lots on the menu including luncheons, light meals and full dinners. A large selection of appetizers, mains, dessert and a "hubble bubble" cost about SDG 90 per person with everything included. They charge 12% government tax and 14% service charge.
A renowned table for spicy grilled chicken and broast.
Yemeni restaurant offering the traditional salta, fahsa, mandi, lahm hanith and fatah for dessert.
Good atmosphere, good food and very affordable. The restaurant is on two floors (there is a pleasant internet cafe on the 3rd floor), upstairs is more lively with Ethiopian pop on the plasma screen. About SDG 25 each for a big meal and coffee. A good choice if you are looking for somewhere with music playing and a bit of atmosphere.
Only Pakistani restaurant in Sudan. Speciality in Pakistani spicy tasty dishes.
In the center of Khartoum, and reasonably priced. Service charges are minimal, food is reasonably good, but service level is so-so. You can choose food from steak to pasta. They charge 3% service charge and 10% government tax.
At this restaurant you choose the meat that you want cooked (usually a choice between camel and lamb), you then hand over the meat to be cooked as part of your meal. Kandahar is one of the few places in Khartoum where you can find camel meat. It is located in Souq Libya in the peripheries of Omdurman.
An alternative to Khartoum's hotels, on the river's southern bank just east of the confluence, the club often accommodates overlanders and accommodates tent camping on its grounds. The club is fenced, monitored, inexpensive and offers expansive river views. It is also home to a river gunboat that once belonged to Horatio Kitchener and now houses the club's offices.
Opened in 2007 and part of Hostelling International this is the best option for non-camping travellers on a budget.
Good option for those who like old British city center which turned into multicultural hub of people from all around Africa doing business there. Downtown Hotel is situated in a big 5 store building right next Gold Market, Grand Mosque and major shopping center Waha. It's managed by British, Polish and Sudanese friends. It's still needs some adjustments and work on details, elevator doesn't work and hotel parking is occupied by street vendors but for US$35 it's possible to have very decent, well furnished room with bathroom and big bed for couples. They have coffee&restaurant on the groundfloor with green backyard. There are multiple activities like training and business center, Artists in Residence programs, design studio and other creative units.
Opened in late 2007, this hotel is a welcome addition to Khartoum’s rather drab hotel stock. Lebanese run, and housing an excellent Lebanese restaurant (The Cedar Tree) this hotel is very Dubai-esque and is certainly worth checking out if your budget can stretch to the room rates. Wireless internet available for a fee.
Small 17-room hotel in the Riyadh suburb – the big attraction is the breezy roof terrace where excellent European breakfasts and dinners are served. Although the rooms themselves are nothing special, they are clean and have the essentials of a/c, wireless internet and satellite TV, although standard rooms involve sharing a bathroom. A favourite with visiting aid workers and other westerners.
Opened in mid 2007, this is the only hotel in Khartoum that offers international five-star standard. Nice big rooms, perfectly equipped. Pool, gym, restaurant and lobby bar, conference facilities and Wifi (fee).
A bit of a strange one this – based in an attractive, if slightly kitsch, dry stone palace, the Assaha Village combines a large restaurant, conference facilities and even a ‘museum’ with intimate, Middle Eastern themed bedrooms. Its part of a small chain with sister hotels in Beirut and Doha. Prices, however, are sky-high at SDG 360 for a single room and SDG 480 for a double.
The hotel has undergone extensive renovation and many facilities have been updated to international standards. The swimming pool is among the largest in Sudan. Features: unlimited free WiFi, Nile Terrace Restaurant (water sprayers on year round), free breakfast. The restaurant serves continental cuisine and comes highly recommended. Rooms start at US$100 and include a continental breakfast.
Afra is Khartoum's and Sudan's only mall but don't expect too much. Afra is already starting to lose it new shininess - it is more like a small neighbourhood mall rather than those you would find in Hong Kong, Singapore or Dubai. It has a supermarket and retail outlets selling clothes and other things you would expect to find in a mall. You can find money changers and pre-paid mobile telephone kiosks too. Afra Mall is certainly not a must-see attraction, nor a place to head for a night out.
For visitors this is probably your best bet for tracking down imported foodstuffs and household items. Prices are high of course, but you are paying for convenience.
Very large Sudanese market. Most of the commodities are cheaper and vegetables and fruits are fresher than Souq Arabi. You can get handicrafts here. The handicraft street is quite difficult to find - its towards the northern end of the market, near the gold section (not on the western side, at stated in the Bradt guide). The street is actually a covered lane between two buildings with gates at either end. It's not very busy (in comparison with the rest of the market) and they can lock up and go home in the evenings, and sometimes on Fridays also. There are many local buses between Souq arabi and here. Bus fare are SDG 1 from here to Souq Arabi.
This is a covered market place; it is Bahri's main shopping market. Prices here can be a little higher than those in Souq Omdurman; however, it is much more easily navigable for tourists.
By bus
The chaotic Souq al-Shaabi used to be the main bus terminal for long distance south-bound buses in Khartoum, but a new terminal Khartoum Land terminal (Meena al Barre) has been built which is more…
By train
Rail services to Khartoum are limited, but investment have brought hopes of a rejuvenation of train travel.
By car
The main tarred road goes south from Khartoum to Wad Medani then east to Gedaref (for the Ethiopian border at Gallabat), Kassala (for the Eritrean border, which is closed) and then to Port Sudan.
By boat
There are no boat services along the Nile to destinations outside Khartoum.
By taxi
These come in three varieties; bright yellow and often beaten up Toyota Corollas Model 1977, small 6-seater minivans, and more modern metered taxis.
By minibus
Minibuses are the cheapest way to get around Khartoum, especially between the three cities.
By car
Describing Khartoum's traffic as chaotic is a bit of an understatement.
By three-wheeled taxis
Called "bajaj" (like in India) or "raksha", they are cheaper than taxis but more expensive than buses so less than SDG 5 per trip.
By boat
There are no ferry services between the three cities as they are well connected by road bridges.
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Khartoum · International · KRT
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