
Market town in the Scottish borders
Photo: Calum Tait - User: (WT-shared) Onepuff at wts wikivoyage, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Kelso is a small market town in the Borders region of southern Scotland, with a population of 6900 in 2020. Its name probably derives from Calk Heugh - the "chalk outcrop" which its two rivers cut through. These are the Teviot and Tweed, joining here, both famed for salmon fishing. The town grew up around its Abbey, whose monks farmed the fertile valleys. Its town centre is of a style common in northern France and the Low Countries but rare in Scotland, with a large market square, and Flemish-style buildings. The main reasons to visit are the Abbey and Floors Castle.
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Built 1128-1143 by the Tironensian monastic order (who'd split from the Benedictines), this was once one of the wealthiest and grandest monasteries in Scotland. But it suffered repeated attack and destruction, and was in a poor state even before the 1560 Reformation. All that remains is the west tower and the transept, still a striking piece of Romanesque architecture.
Grand mansion built in 1720 by William Adam, and embellished with cod-castellations in the 19th century. There may have been an earlier turret, but Floors was designed for sumptuous living not defence. It's home to the Duke of Roxburghe and has extensive gardens - these are open all year, dogs on leads welcome.
Ruins of a medieval castle established by David I and birthplace of Alexander III. The castle was strategically important from the 12th to the 15th centuries and the adjoining town of Roxburgh (of which nothing is now visible) was a royal burgh and centre of agricultural trade with Europe. The ruins are scrappy, as the Scots destroyed it in the 16th century to put it beyond English use. The main remnants are the earthwork mound topped by stone fortifications, and the main gate on the west side.
Sumptuous 18th-century pile built by Robert Adam, the most complete example of his work, and home of the 14th Earl of Haddington. Set in extensive gardens laid out in 1910.
This was a "peel tower", a fortified turret that served as a lookout and signal tower against raiders. It was built circa 1500, fell into disrepair in the 18th century but was partly restored in the 1980s. Although there are opening hours and an entrance fee, you can pretty much see it gratis by looking over the fence.
This is a National Hunt course with jumps races Sep to May.
B&B with six rooms, friendly hosts, good value for money.
Traditional pub with rooms near The Square, friendly but sometimes noisy.
Friendly comfy old coaching inn.
Georgian mansion overlooking the River Tweed and Springwood Park, great views, comfort & service.
Coaching inn established 1725, with contemporary decor, comfy & friendly.
The old Rox has been well restored into this upscale confection. With restaurant, golf, other country sports and facilities for pets.
By plane: the nearest airport is Edinburgh 50 miles (81 km) northwest, with a good choice of flights. Newcastle Airport is 62 miles southeast.
Read in the guideThe Abbey and Floors Castle are in town, and Roxburgh Castle is only a one mile walk. There's no bus along the road to Mellerstain House.
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Ingliston, Edinburgh · International · EDI
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