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Town in Kamphaeng Phet Province, Thailand
Photo: Meneerke bloem, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Kamphaeng Phet (กำแพงเพชร) is a city in Lower Northern Thailand with around 30,000 citizens. Its historical park with ruins of 14th- to 16th-century temples, city fortifications and Buddha statues is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site "Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns".
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Inner district
The ruins of the temple district of the ancient city of Cha Kang Rao, including Wat Phra Kaeo and Wat Phra That. The Reclining Buddha of Wat Phra Kaeo is arguably the most beautiful statue in the park and one of the best depictions of the Buddha's serene smile from the Sukhothai period. The zone is surrounded by five metre high laterite walls and a 25-metre wide moat. Four of ten forts and gates are relatively well-preserved and can be visited.
Forest district
Thailand's Buddhist clergy was divided into "town monks" who studied, taught and performed ceremonies for the believers, and "forest monks" who went into retreat, dedicated to meditation and asceticism. The bigger part of the historical park, covered with light forest, consists of the hermitage ruins of the latter group. Thanks to the canopy of leaves, it is very pleasant to visit on foot or by bicycle (can be rented by the main entrance). Its main sites are Wat Chang Rop (with its remarkable chedi that is surrounded by 68 stucco elephant figures), Wat Phra Non (with a relatively well-preserved chedi and remains of a Reclining Buddha statue), Wat Phra Si Iriyabot (with the park's only surviving, nine metre high standing Buddha statue). Next to the main entrance to this zone is also the park administration.
Kamphaeng Phet/Cha Kang Rao's sister city on the opposite bank of the Ping River is even older. Its fortification and temple ruins are however in a worse state of preservation. Unlike on the other bank, there is no actual park with fence, cashier, and trim paths, but the ruins are simply dispersed among the landscape, widely ignored by locals and tourists alike. The only historic temple that is still in use, is Wat Phra Borommathat (see below, in the temples section).
Old temple in the town centre whose history dates to c. 1600. The present buildings date from the 1850s. Notable is the ho trai, i.e., the monastery's library, a traditional wooden house standing on stilts amid a water ditch. Its roof is covered with characteristic fish-scale shaped tiles. The ubosot is nice to look at too, especially at dusk when the colourful glass elements of the elaborately decorated pediment shimmer.
วัดพระบรมธาตุ
This temple is one of the oldest in Kamphaeng Phet (its history probably dates back to the 14th century) and the only ancient monastery of the historical park that is not a ruin but still active. Its most visible feature is the tall, gold-covered pagoda in Burmese Mon style that can be seen from afar. Originally, the chedi was Sukhothai-style, but it was redesigned during a renovation from 1870 to 1907, sponsored by a rich timber merchant. The temple compound also hosts the "Nakhon Chum cultural centre" in a traditional teak building, with a collection of all kinds of antique objects, that however lack explanations (at least in English).
Old temple with a beautiful, three metre high, Chiang Saen-style Buddha statue in the "calling the earth to witness" posture.
พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติกำแพงเพชร, Phiphithaphanthasathan haeng Chat Kamphaeng Phet
Exhibition of bronze sculptures and pottery from different periods of Thai art and Mon art. The highlight is an early 16th-century bronze Shiva statue. Its head and hands were cut off in 1886 by a German trader who tried to smuggle them to Europe. They were however confiscated before he could send them abroad and were reunited with the torso. A replica was then made under orders of King Rama V, given to the German crown prince and is now exhibited at the Berlin Museum of Asian Art.
พิพิธภัณฑสถานกำแพงเพชรเฉลิมพระเกียรติ, Phiphithaphanthasathan Kamphaeng Phet Chaloem Phrakiat; also known as "Thai House Museum", พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือนไทย, Phiphithaphan Ruean Thai
Elegant replicas of traditional Thai houses, hosting an exhibition about local and regional history and lifestyle.
City pillar shrine
Shrine that houses the symbolic navel of the city which according to the locals' belief is home to the city's guardian spirits.
San Phra Isuan
Original place of the Shiva statue that now is kept at the National Museum, there is a replica where locals bring their offerings, asking the deity for blessing of themselves, their families and pets.
Landmark and central orientation point. It is made of laterite, thus referring to the ancient monuments of the historical park, that consist of the same material. With its castle-like shape and crenelations, it is also a nod to the city's name: "diamond wall". The bodhi (sacred fig) tree on the other side of the roundabout is used by locals as a meeting point.
นวดแผนไทยโบราณ
Owner is an alumna of the reputable Wat Pho massage school in Bangkok.
บะหมี่ชากังราว
Simple, but popular restaurant, mainly serving yellow noodle dishes (e.g., with tom yum soup) and grilled pork skewers. Video clip presenting the restaurant (Thai).
ไก่ย่างพี่แป๋ว
Offers delicious grilled chicken, som tam and other spicy Northeastern Thai dishes. There is an air conditioned and a non-AC room. Video clip (Thai).
ครัวริมคลอง
Rustic open-air restaurant in a garden by the riverside, serving mainly dishes with freshwater fish.
สุภา โภชนา
Simple, very popular restaurant for authentic Thai food. Specialty of the house is Tom Lueat Moo (soup with clotted pig blood).
สุภาพผัดไทยนครชุม
Small restaurant and takeaway, supposedly making (according to locals) the best pad Thai.
Restaurant and café with a large garden at the edge of Historical Park. Serves European beers. Live music evenings.
กิตติโภชนา, Kitti Phochana
Large and long-standing Chinese restaurant with diverse selection of dishes. A little expensive.
แม่ปิงริเวอร์ไซด์
Large choice in dishes, mainly (but not only) freshwater fish; draught beer; seats directly on the riverbank with a beautiful view of the town; frequently live music in the evening.
German owner and chef; German and Thai dishes, burger, pizza, lasagne; various German beers; meeting place of Western expats.
สถานีสเต็ก
Quaint restaurant and café with antiques in the American 1920s to '50s style. As its name implies, mostly steaks are served. Video.
Small Japanese restaurant, serving sushi, ramen and the like.
Cozy café with fresh coffee and espresso-derivatives; free Wi-Fi. About halfway between downtown and National Museum/Historical Park.
Cozy, retro-styled café; offers espresso, cappuccino, frappes, etc. Owner speaks English.
เค้กปอนด์
Bakery, coffee shop. Lots of breads, mini pizzas and cake options at reasonable prices. Two muffins for 30 baht, tasty and a good deal. Air-con.
A popular coffee shop. Cappuccino at 50 baht, selection of sweet snacks, Wi-Fi. On the street corner opposite the town fountain.
Identifiable by the cute cow sign next to the chalk board. Serves cakes. Has A/C.
A small stall affair with only a couple of tables.
เสือยิ้ม, Suea Yim
Comfortable sofas and some great coffee. They also provide a free pot of green tea with each cup of coffee. Has A/C and Wi-Fi, and serves cakes.
Hip bar (at least by the standards of a provincial town), live music.
Night club in the basement of Phet Hotel with a stage for live music and go-go dance.
Small café and cocktail bar, large variety of imported beer in bottles.
โรงเตี๊๊ยม
Cozy and relaxed pub; live music on some days, starting around 21:00.
Low cost, basic rooms (entirely adequate and clean), fan and shared bathroom or air-con and en-suite bathroom, very pleasant garden environment, cozy common room. Small range of food offered, bicycles and motorbikes (200 baht a day) for hire. Family-run business, good spoken English, helpful advice about touring the town and ruins, organises trekking and day trips with minivan and driver. Laundry service, pickup from bus terminal or Bangkok airport on request. 1.5 km to night market, 2 km to historical park (inner district).
One of the larger and fancier resorts on the bank of Ping River (59 rooms). Different room categories, all clean and convenient with AC, en suite bathroom, cable TV, fridge.
The city's most prestigious hotel (115 rooms on six floors), claims four stars (but only deserves three by international standards). All rooms have AC, balcony, satellite TV, minibar. Spa area, karaoke. Only a few steps to the riverside, Sirichit Park, 200 m to night market, under 2 km to historical park (inner district).
All rooms with AC, satellite TV, minibar. Bicycle hire. Directly at the night market, 100 m to Ping River bank, about 2 km to historical park (inner district).
Mass hotel (155 rooms), large rooms (c. 33 sq.m) with AC, bathtub, cable TV, minibar.
Neat small resort (10 rooms), large rooms (32 sq. m) with AC, bathtub, veranda, flatscreen TV, DVD player, fridge, water kettle. Swimming pool, large garden with playground, restaurant and café; free WiFi; karaoke, massage, laundry, shuttle service. 1.2 km to night market, 2.5 km to historical park (inner district). Video review
Small, comfortable resort (7 rooms) around a pool; spacious and cozy non-smoking rooms (36 sq.m) with AC, patio/balcony, flatscreen TV, fridge/minibar; free Wi-Fi, free pickup at bus terminal; bicycles, motorbikes and kayaks for hire, sauna, massage and spa treatments.
Relaxing place to stay, 7 individually furnished units including a small "villa" with 2 bedrooms; all rooms with bathtub, AC, TV, DVD player, balcony or terrace, barbecue area; resort has a large garden, pool, bicycles for rent, restaurant, free Wi-Fi. Lots of local info, close to the historical park.
Large shopping mall with a variety of shops, system catering and a cinema.
Western-style supermarket with a little mall of a few individual shops and a KFC branch.
Wet market selling fresh food and ready-to-eat dishes as well as craft products.
small daytime market
Mainly food, including ready-to-eat dishes.
or "night bazaar"
Great variety of food, including ready-to-eat dishes.
Dozens of stalls selling fresh bananas (ripe or green), fried bananas, bananas baked in honey, and rattan products.
By train
Kamphaeng Phet is not connected with the rail network. The closest train station is in Phitsanulok, from which it's a nearly three-hour bus ride to Kamphaeng Phet.
By bus
The most usual way to get in, is by bus. Buses from Bangkok's northern terminal (Mo Chit) and from Chiang Mai arrive about hourly. There are also some overnight connections.
By car
Kamphaeng Phet is conveniently accessible via Route 1 (Asian Highway 1), about halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. It is a four to 4½ ride from either city.
Kamphaeng Phet lacks an actual public transportation system. The city is not well prepared for tourists. There are no regular taxis, and even tuk-tuks, motorcycle taxis, or rickshaws are pretty rare.e.
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