County-level city in Guangdong, China
Photo: Mx. Granger, CC0 via Wikimedia Commons
Kaiping (开平; Kāipíng in Mandarin, Hoi1pen6 in the local dialect) is a pastoral area in Guangdong, China, full of rice fields and old-fashioned villages, that is known for its hundreds of diāolóu (碉楼). These watchtower dwellings, scattered around the countryside, were built in the early 20th century by overseas Chinese in a mixture of western and eastern styles.
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自力村 Zìlìcūn
A village with lots of beautiful diaolou amidst rice fields and lotus ponds. Chickens and vegetable gardens are around too, and you'll see villagers working in the garden.
立园 Lìyuán
A group of neoclassical and baroque buildings with Chinese ornamental roofs in an elegant garden. Colorfully decorated and beautifully restored diaolou. The complex is well preserved but renovated so much it feels kind of artificial. Hosts a museum about the Xie family, who built the complex in the early 20th century, and other overseas Chinese of the early 20th century.
马降龙 Mǎjiànglóng
Diaolou among the bamboo thickets. This village is very quiet, though the chickens and geese in coops prove there are still people living here. Not many villagers and even fewer tourists walking around.
锦江里 Jǐnjiānglǐ
Two impressively shaped diaolou with bulbous cantilevered upper storeys, one of which you can go up in for lovely views. There are quite a few additional diaolou nearby in various states of disrepair. This is the farthest out of the four main villages, but it has much more life than Majianglong. You can experience a bit of the atmosphere of Chinese rural life—chickens and geese puttering around, peanuts drying in the sun, and villagers cleaning, working, or chatting around a table.
南楼 Nánlóu
A tower built in 1912 where seven soldiers from Chikan fought and died in 1945 in the war against the Japanese. It's designated as a "patriotic education base", and the information about the seven-day battle is all in Chinese, so it might not mean much to you as a foreigner unless you have a special interest in modern Chinese history and national identity. But the top of the 7-story, 22-meter tower does have nice views of the Tanjiang River, the countryside, and Kaiping's blocks of high-rises. You may be the only visitor there unless you happen to arrive at the same time as a tour bus.
赤坎
A market town with many arcade buildings built in the mixed western and eastern style by overseas Chinese during the early 20th century. Lovely short riverfront walk. On the opposite river side, you can rent bikes from the youth hostel to discover the area. Reach Chikan comfortably in 20 minutes using bus 106 running through most of western Kaiping. Chikan old town is under renovations, beginning 2017 and expected to last several years.
三门里
A lovely old village like many others in the area, except that it's quite large, much livelier than most, and has the oldest diaolou in Kaiping, the squat 3-story Yinglong Lou built in the Ming Dynasty. Wander around for a half hour and say hello to the old ladies sorting orange peels, the farmers harvesting rice, the mahjong players near the village entrance, and the chickens milling around.
斜楼
无人村 Wú Rén Cūn
A ghost town. The people of Dengbian Village (邓边村) gradually moved away to cities, leaving their village to be overgrown by trees and vines. Inside the houses, many with roofs caved in and roots poking through the bricks, you can see remnants of the former residents' lives—a moldy sweater sleeve, broken pots, a dresser barely held up by a couple of ceiling beams. Given demographic trends, the "Village without People" is probably a harbinger of rural China's future—one day, the countryside may be full of ghost towns like this.
To get there, take village road Y811, and the first sign of the abandoned village will be an overgrown diaolou on the right. Just past it is the dirt road leading to the village. Walk down the dirt road and you'll pass a large complex of buildings that you can walk around and explore. The dirt road ends at a river, but a small dirt path to the right leads to another part of the village. When exploring the buildings stick to the paths where other people have gone. The houses are falling apart and may not be stable. If you're really adventurous, an extremely overgrown path from the first complex leads to the village's diaolou (if you go this way, consider grabbing a big stick to scare away snakes just in case). Don't even think about going up in the diaolou, though—the door is rusted shut.
Dengbian Village was one of many villages in the area where the Gin (甄 Zhēn) clan settled in the late 12th century. The village was considered one of the most prosperous in the area and many of its young men went overseas and remitted funds to support the village and build the Diaolou watchtower, the landmark which today identifies the location of the village. Many villagers established businesses and attended school in the nearby town of Xinchang in the Sanbu district of Kaiping. Today, on the outskirts of Xinchang is a Gin Sun Hall Memorial Hall named in honor of the Gin Sun Hall who 25 generations ago in 1190s settled in the area. The Gin Sun Hall Benevolent Association in San Francisco was established and supported by the descendants from this area.
孔雀湖 Kǒngquè Hú
A beautiful reservoir.
甘巴莎咖啡馆
Serves western and Chinese food at a reasonable price.
Great mainland Chinese style vegetarian buffet. Operates from 11:00 or 11:30 to 14:00 for lunch.
翰记美食馆 Hànjì Měishíguǎn
A big, noisy, busy restaurant serving authentic local food. The specialty is clay pot rice. Vegetarian version available. Cheaper than the restaurants closer to the diaolou areas.
塘口空间 Tángkǒu Jiānkōng
DMBL Inn, 碉民部落 Diāomín Bùluò
A plain, clean, quiet guesthouse and hostel surrounded by old buildings and rice fields in the town of Tangkou near Zilicun. Downstairs is a bar and a sort of mini-museum of local artifacts. The hostel-style dorm room is separated by a curtain into a men's section and a women's section. There are small lockers with their own keys, and each bunk has electrical outlets fitting several different plug types. Fast wifi. Quality bike rentals available: ¥20 for 2 hours, ¥30 for 4 hours, ¥40 for 6 hours, ¥50 for 8 hours.
祥苑宾馆
星都大酒店
金桥城
A shopping mall in Kaiping that was completed in November 1993. It is a shopping and entertainment mall. Inside you can find fashion shops, gift shops, cosmetic shops, and DVD stores. With a construction area of 1.3 million m², there are a total of eight floors. There escalators, elevators, central air conditioning, closed-circuit television monitoring system, automatic fire control system, parking and other service facilities. A total of hundreds of city shopping shops, First to fourth floors are commercial space, business is very rich in species, of which the first floor is main selling household appliances, audio-visual products and daily necessities, etc. Second and third floors mainly sell apparel and leather products and so on. Fourth floor is mainly beauty centers. Level five and above is a large-scale entertainment venues.
步行街
Kaiping tourist shopping street is a two-storey large-scale special building, 800 metres long, south from Cangjiang river, north to 325 national highway, and east with Dong Xing road. This building is a highlights of European style, and is similar with many famous building such as The White House, the Arc de Triomphe in France, Germany Castle, London Bridge, the Netherlands windmill, etc.. There are 262 shops on the first floor, 275 shops on the second floor, and a large space garden on the roof which includes fountains, pavilions, porticos and a large quantity of white marble sculptures. Tourist shopping street include many kinds of products, such as clothing, footwear, stationery, electrical appliances.
思始市场 Sīshǐ Shìchǎng
Covered produce market with lots of fresh vegetables, plus fruit, meat, and more.
By bus
Kaiping has two long-distance bus stations, Yicizhan (义祠站) and Changshazongzhan (长沙总站) along the downtown bus terminal at the intersection of Xijao Rd and Musha Rd.
By bus
Kaiping has bus lines which connect to most of the major diaolou villages (more or less—you might find yourself walking a kilometer or two).
By bike
Kaiping is a great place for biking. The roads are pretty flat, and the entrances to some small villages are too narrow for a car.
By foot
It's possible to hike around between some of the villages and towns around the main diaolou areas.
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