County in Yunnan, People's Republic of China
Photo: Xin, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Jianshui County (建水县 Jianshui xian) is a division of Honghe Prefecture in Southeastern Yunnan. Numerous temples, traditional residences, bridges and other historic sites survive in and around the old town, making Jianshui a useful stop on an overland journey between Kunming and Hekou, on the border with Vietnam.
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团山村
A historic village with more than 600 years of history. Tuanshan preserves traditional residences, village gates, temples and ancestral halls from the late Qing and early Republican periods. The village combines traditional Han Chinese courtyard houses with Yi-style earthen houses and is a nationally recognized traditional village and 4A-rated tourist attraction.
乡会桥站
A historic railway station built in 1936 on the former Mengzi–Baoxiu Railway. The station building combines Chinese and Western architectural features and was designated a prefectural-level cultural heritage site in 2016. It is now a stop on the Jianshui tourist train.
潮阳楼 Chaoyang Lou
The preserved eastern gate tower of the former walled city of Lin'an and one of Jianshui's best-known landmarks. Built in 1389 during the Ming dynasty, it is the only one of the city's four original gate towers to survive substantially intact. The upper floors contain exhibition space and offer views over the old town. The building has been protected as a Major Historical and Cultural Site at the National Level since 2006.
永贞门
The northern gate of the former walled city of Lin'an. It formed part of the four-gate layout established when Jianshui's city walls were rebuilt in brick during the Ming dynasty. The original gate tower no longer survives, but the site remains a recognizable landmark.
阜安楼
The southern gate of the former walled city of Lin'an. It was one of the four historic gates that defined the old city's street layout, together with Chaoyang Gate in the east, Qingyuan Gate in the west and Yongzhen Gate in the north.
清远门
The western gate of the former walled city of Lin'an. Together with the eastern Chaoyang Gate, southern Fu'an Gate and northern Yongzhen Gate, it formed part of the traditional four-gate layout of the old city.
文庙 Wen Miao
Billed as "the largest Confucian temple in Southern China", Jianshui's temple was founded in 1285, during the Yuan Dynasty, although the existing buildings date mostly to the late 18th century (and probably have been heavily restored in the late 20th). Unlike its better known namesakes in Qufu or Hanoi, Jianshui's temple includes a large lake, known as Xuehai ("The Sea of Learning"). A pavilion on the island is called Si Le Ting 思乐亭, i.e. the "Joy of Learning Pavilion"; it's also known under the alternative name, "Diao Ao Ting" 钓鳌亭, i.e. "The pavilion for catching Ao"; catching Ao, a legendary giant sea turtle, is a metaphor for scoring best at the traditional civil service examination in the Imperial China. Similar to the Confucian temples elsewhere, Jianshui's temple has a large assortment of ornate gates and halls for honoring Confucius, his ancestors and disciples, and assorted local worthies, in a parklike setting, among cypress trees. If you've been to Qufu or Hanoi, you'll notice one difference, though: in Qufu or Hanoi, most important stone tablets are mounted on top of stone tortoises (bixi), while in Jianshui, there is not a tortoise in sight; on the other hand, elephant motif is prominent in decorating the temple in Jianshui. It's up to you to decide if the temple and its lake are worth the fairly steep entry fee.
学政考棚 Xuezheng kaopeng
Long before Americans started studying for SAT, GRE, and bar exams, a system of local, provincial, and imperial examinations served to select deserving candidates for the government apparatus of imperial China. The Jianshui examination hall is a complex of buildings where, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, young Yunnan scholars would come to take the high-stake exam that could decide the course of their subsequent lives. Although the buildings have few historical artefacts, they have good displays (in Chinese and English) on the imperial examination system as it operated in the region.
双龙桥 Shuanglong qiao
The 17-span bridge, now standing in the middle of a pond, as most of the waters in the Lin'an River has been diverted elsewhere. The tourist train makes a short stop nearby.
文笔塔
On a hill south of town, this early 19th-century structure is meant to resemble a writing brush (文笔 wenbi), although to a modern traveler it may look more like a factory smokestack. You cannot drive to the tower, but there is a more or less informal trail people use to approach the tower from the southwest, starting at a in Baishuihe Village (白水河村). The tower is a solid stone structure, without any interior space or a staircase. So any views you get are those from the ground at the base of the tower (not particularly great).
燕子洞 Yanzi Dong
馆驿村 Guanyi cun
A Muslim (Hui) village, with two ornate mosques. You'll pass through it if you're traveling to Jianshui by road from Tonghai
The century-old narrow gauge railway serving Jianshui (a branch of the better known Yunnan-Vietnam Railway) has no regular passenger service anymore; but a tourist train runs twice a day from the restored Lin'an Station 临安站 to Tuanshan Station 团山站, in a village of the same name west of town. On its way, the train stops at the Double Dragon Bridge. Note that this is not the only place in Yunnan where a meter-gauge train can be ridden: there is also very limited commercial passenger service (very inexpensive) in the Kunming metropilitan area (from the Kunming North Train Station).
建水紫陶博物馆
Learn about Jianshui’s traditional purple pottery and try hands-on pottery-making activities. The museum includes exhibition halls, a non-material cultural heritage display, a VR experience area and spaces for pottery-making experiences. Free guided tours are usually offered at 10:00 and 15:00.
蚁工坊彩陶艺术工厂
A colorful art complex combining pottery culture, exhibition spaces and studios.
探访建水古井
Explore historic wells scattered through Jianshui Old Town, including Daban Well and other traditional water sources.
临安饭店
A long-established local restaurant serving traditional Jianshui and Yunnan dishes. It is known for local specialities such as steam-pot chicken and rice noodles, and is a convenient place to try regional food while exploring the old town.
外婆味道云南菜大当家(建水古城店)
A Yunnan-style restaurant in the old town serving local and regional dishes. A good option for travellers who want a sit-down meal with a broader selection of Yunnan food beyond snacks and noodles. The restaurant is open throughout the day and into the evening.
建水人家一品凉饭庄
A local restaurant serving Jianshui and Yunnan-style dishes.
馨然茶室
A local tea house serving tea and other drinks.
大红袍茶楼
A local tea house where visitors can have tea and take a break.
乃七艺术咖啡馆
A local cafe serving coffee and other drinks.
红河建水温德姆豪廷酒店
A modern hotel. Rooms include free Wi-Fi and air conditioning, and the hotel has a restaurant, fitness centre, free parking and a 24-hour front desk. A practical option for travellers who prefer a full-service hotel rather than a traditional guesthouse.
临安酒店
A full-service hotel within walking distance of the historic centre. Facilities include restaurants, parking and meeting spaces. Its location makes it convenient for travellers who want to stay close to the old town without being inside its busiest streets.
建水紫陶街
A shopping area specializing in Jianshui purple pottery, including handmade teapots, cups, vases and other ceramic products.
建水人民商城
A local shopping centre selling everyday goods and locally available products.
建水县水果批发市场
A local market selling fresh fruit and other produce.
Jianshui is served by the standard-gauge railway linking Kunming with Mengzi and Hekou on the Vietnamese border. Jianshui Railway Station is the main station for regular passenger services.
Read in the guideCentral Jianshui is fairly compact, and most sights in the old town are within walking distance of one another. Local buses connect the old town with newer parts of the city and major transport hubs.
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