
City in Chūgoku, Japan
Photo: User: (WT-shared) Gorilla Jones at wts wikivoyage, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Iwakuni (岩国市 Iwakuni-shi) is a castle town shaped by two eras of military presence — the samurai who walked the mighty Kintai-kyo bridge, and the U.S. Marine Corps base in the city today.
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錦帯橋
Only samurai used to be able to cross the arches of this long, magnificent bridge. These days, the river it spans has been reduced to a trickle, and anyone willing to fork over the admission can go back and forth as they please. The 210-m original was built in 1673 using only wood — no metal nails — but the present structure is a 1953 reconstruction.
吉香公園
A pleasant green spot on the other side of the bridge, with some lovely flower gardens, large sprinklers for a soak on a summer day, and a popular cherry blossom viewing spot in April. Expect to meet some chatty locals here. The entrance to the park is overseen by a statue of Hiroyoshi Kikkawa, the feudal lord who directed the construction of the Kintai-kyo; the park was built on the grounds of the Kikkawa family home. There are two museums in the park for visitors interested in samurai culture and feudal Iwakuni.
徴古館
A library with historical documents and scroll paintings.
吉川史料館 kikkawa shiryōkan
Dedicated to the aforementioned family of warlords, and including some of their weapons.
長屋門 Nagaya-mon
At the south end of the park, you'll see the dramatic gate, the home of the Kagawa family who were the Kikkawa's principal samurai retainers.
旧目加田家住宅 Kyū metaka-ke jūtaku
The home of another family of Kikkawa retainers. (Don't try to enter either, though; they're still private residences.)
岩国城 Iwakuni-jō
Although the original castle only stood for seven years, that was excuse enough for a reconstruction during the 1960s. The foundations of the original lie a short distance behind the new one; the builders apparently decided to move it closer to the cliff for scenic purposes. Inside the castle is a small historical museum.
岩国美術館 Iwakuni bijutsukan
Art and artifacts about samurai life, including some remarkable sword exhibits. The admission is a bit steep, but you'll find better English information here than elsewhere.
白蛇資料館, Shiryōkan
Dedicated to the white snakes that are native to the Iwakuni area (not the hair metal band.) As they are messengers of Benten, the Japanese goddess of wealth, an encounter with the white snakes is considered good luck.
美川ムーバレー
An entire adventure theme park located underground. The premise of the adventure is based on ancient writings found in a mineshaft that leads to questions about whether the world and its history is really as we perceive it to be. The ancient underground kingdom appears to have been inspired by Mayan culture, at least as far as the statues, art, and motifs used. They have a variety of mission quests with tasks you can complete, panning for gold, digging for gemstones, as well as caves and waterfalls, a restaurant, and an onsen.
とことこトレイン
A 40-minute sightseeing train that travels through a "Dream Tunnel" that is filled with pictures made of fluorescent glowing stones, to Sozukyo Onsen.
This is the busiest day of the year around the Kintai bridge area of Iwakuni, with more than 40,000 visitors. It's held annually on Showa Day, at the beginning of the Golden Week national holidays. The centerpiece of the festival is the mid-day Daimyo Procession, featuring a traditional dress march across the bridge; there's also food, festivities, and samurai demonstrations around Kikko Park.
日米親善デー nichibei shinzen dē
At the other end of Golden Week, the Marine Corps puts on a public air-show attended by up to 250,000 curious Japanese nationals. Follow the crowds out of JR Iwakuni Station for the best viewing spots.
錦川水の祭典 nishiki-gawa mizu no saiten
Fireworks in the skies over the bridge.
岩国まつり
A lively autumn celebration with food, a flea market, and goofy events like a public tug-of-war.
半月庵
Built in 1869 to serve as an Officer's Club of the Japanese Navy, this restaurant specializes in ayu, a kind of sweet fish that's often caught by the cormorant fishermen of Iwakuni. If you enjoy the food and the atmosphere, ask about overnight lodgings.
マナティー
Good bar with a great menu of snacks, particularly crepes and other desserts.
シティホテル安藤
Most of the rooms in this business hotel are Western-style, but a few rather nice Japanese-style rooms are available for slightly more. Rooms have Internet access, and there are PCs in the lobby.
白為旅館
Traditional Japanese rooms with a great view of the bridge. The seasonal seafood meals are excellent — they can even swipe a page from the Shimonoseki chapter and serve fugu with advance notice.
ホテルアルファーワン岩国
MCX
If you're on an extended trip and you miss something from home that you can't find overseas, the Marines know how you feel — there's a store on base with American brands of daily essentials like deodorant and toothpaste, along with electronics, Japanese souvenirs, and CDs/DVDs. However, it's only open to U.S. active duty personnel, reservists, and retired members of all service branches; everyone else will have to make a friend on the base to get in.
By plane
By bus
Buses run to Iwakuni from the Hiroshima Bus Center. Most overnight routes from Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka that are bound for Hagi will include a stop at Iwakuni.
The tourist attractions are all within walking distance of each other, near Kintai-kyo and the Nishiki River. Buses run from JR Iwakuni Station (¥240, 15 minutes) and Shin-Iwakuni (¥280, 15 minutes).
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