The Historical Peninsula (Turkish: Tarihi Yarımada, or Suriçi, "Walled City") is the oldest part of Istanbul. It's the location of most of its sights, with several ranked as a . It's on the western, European side of the Bosphorus, with the sea to the south and the inlet of the Golden Horn to the north.
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Blue Mosque
The defining image of Istanbul, dominating the skyline with its great dome and six minarets. Completed in 1617 for Sultan Ahmed I, it's still a working mosque, so dress appropriately and avoid prayer times. Enter via the courtyard on the SW side. You step (shoeless) into the blue-tiled prayer hall beneath the main dome and its semi-domes. The mihrab is of finely carved marble, well-lit, and the minbar (pulpit) next to it is visible from almost all parts.
Aya Sofya
The third and grandest of the churches on this site, completed in 537 AD. The 30-m diameter dome covers what was for over 1000 years the largest enclosed space in the world, only surpassed in 1520 by Seville cathedral. It used "pendentive" architecture to throw the dome's weight onto four stout pillars, a design that inspired many Eastern Orthodox churches and Ottoman mosques. It became a mosque after the Ottoman conquest in 1453, remaining so until 1931. It was then a museum until 2020 when it was again proclaimed a mosque. That means you must work around prayer times and dress appropriately. Very cheap disposable headscarves are available for purchase outside the building.
The imperial enclave of the Ottoman emperors for four centuries. Lavishly decorated, with exhibitions of fine craftmanship and four courts of increasing grandeur. The second court has the Harem and the State Treasury, housing a weaponry display. On the right, towards the Bosphorus, there is the kitchen exhibition, also with a collection of coffee cups throughout the centuries. The third court has the Imperial Treasury on the right (also with a great view over the Bosphorus) and a collection of Islamic and Christian relics on the left. The views from the Fourth Court over the Bosphorus are spectacular. Reckon on spending several hours here and bring water as the museum kiosk is overpriced. The museum kiosk is in the kitchen section, on the right-hand side of the second court. Toilets can also be found there, towards the beginning of the second court. These have a shorter line than those in the second court, towards the third court.
Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi
A profusion of carpets, rugs, calligraphy, pottery, Qu'rans and other manuscripts. The museum is housed in the Palace of Pargalı Ibrahim Pasha (1495–1536), who was grand vizier to Suleiman the Magnificent, and the best of pals till Suleiman had him murdered.
Yerebatan Sarnici
Vast underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 to store the city's water, the largest and best-known of the hundreds constructed. It's a cathedral-like space with 336 richly decorated columns. Time was you explored in a little rowing boat, but tourist numbers have soared and water levels have dropped, so now you follow a boardwalk, with lights, piped music and art installations. It's sometimes a film location, and stages concerts. But the crowds rob it of atmosphere and you might prefer to seek out one of the less-visited cisterns.
İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri
Turkey was slow to protect its antiquities and to display them properly, but in 1867 Sultan Abdülaziz toured the museums of Paris, London and Vienna and saw what was needed. The main collection is in a grand neo-classical building of 1891, with two annexes for ancient art and Islamic art. Exhibits include Sumerian tablets, pieces of the wall of Babylon, Roman statues, and the Alexander Sarcophagus. There are very detailed historical explanations in both Turkish and English. There is also quite an accurate exhibition about the historical layers and epochs of the city of Troy. If you are passionate about history, you can spend many hours here, so bring a supply of water and food (the museum café is quite expensive). In the summer, on Saturdays and Sundays, they have concerts in the courtyard.
İslam Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi
Museum in a restored building that was the stables for Topkapı Palace. It exhibits various instruments for astronomy, clocks, pumps, weaponry, a steam-powered döner spit, and so on developed in Islamic realms down the centuries, but these are modern repro, and explanations of their context are skimpy. Islamic science and technology preceded that of Europe, as they insist, but they get the tone wrong, as if that was the triumphal culmination rather than the springboard for further advance.
İstanbul Demiryolu Müzesi
Housed in the Europe-side railway terminus of 1890, this exhibits Ottoman and modern Turkish railway history. The Orient Express came and went from here, with passengers for further east transferring to ferries then the Asia-side terminus of Haydarpaşa, for trains to Crimea, Baghdad and Damascus.
Built in 1564 by Mimar Sinan for Rüstem Pasha, Grand Vizier of Suleiman the Magnificent, this small mosque has an interior covered by beautiful Iznik pottery, then at its zenith.
Imposing mosque built 1500/05. The other parts of the religious complex have found secular use.
Büyük Saray Mozaikleri Müzesi
This museum hosts the pavement mosaics of the Great Palace of Constantinople, which stretched from the Hippodrome to the coast.
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha was the grand vizier and de facto ruler of the Ottoman Empire during its 16th century golden age. He commissioned this mosque, one of three in the city to bear his name, but the sloping site was a challenge. He hired the best, Mimar Sinan, who completed it in 979 AH / 1571 AD, with the slope resolved by a fronting courtyard above shops and a medrese. The interior has outstanding İznik blue tiles, and three fragments of the Black Stone (Hajar al-Aswad) of the Kaaba: above the main entrance, minbar and mihrab.
Kücük Ayasofya Camii
Built as the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus around 530 AD, the same time as Hagia Sophia, but their styles differ. Transformed into a mosque in the early 1500s, it's beautifully decorated, with fine marble details, and has a pleasanter atmosphere than the larger busy mosques. The adjoining madrasa houses craft shops.
Şerefiye Sarnıcı
This was rediscovered in 2010 when an overlying building was demolished. It was built circa 430 AD to store water brought in by Valens Aqueduct. It's smaller than the better-known Basilica Cistern, but better lit, more atmospheric and less touristy.
Built 1748-55, this launched the style we call Ottoman Baroque, with its grand central dome and pencil-thin minarets. It was copied throughout their empire and is replicated in new mosques even today. The name means "light of the Ottomans," and the interior uses light powdery decor, bathed with much more natural light than its gloomier classical predecessors. The complex also has a madrasa and the imaret (public soup kitchen).
This is a triple structure: the church of the Monastery of Pantokrator built 1118, then a public church circa 1136 plus a chapel that served as a royal mausoleum. It became a mosque and medresse in Ottoman times, but without massive alteration so it's a prime example of middle-Byzantine architecture. It's nowadays again a mosque, photogenic by day or dusk but the area should be avoided at night.
Built circa 1200 as the Eastern Orthodox Theotokos Kyriotissa Church, after the Ottoman conquest it was handed over to the Qalandari, a Sufi sect. In the mid-18th century it was converted to a Sunni mosque, and its mosaics were plastered over. The original appearance was restored in the 1970s.
On top of a hill overlooking the Golden Horn, this is a magnificent mosque built by Sinan in the 1550s. It was centrepiece of a large külliye, a religious complex which included madrasas, a public kitchen and a hospital.. The small cemetery east has the mausoleums of Suleiman the Magnificent and of his wife Hurrem Sultan or Roxelana.
The original mosque was built between 1463-1470 by the Greek architect Atik Sinan, by order of Sultan Mehmet II the Conqueror, on the site of the former Church of the Holy Apostles, which had served as Byzantine Imperial burial place for a thousand years. The grand complex with eight medreses, a library, hospital, hospice, caravanserai, market, hamam, primary school and public soup kitchen was smashed again and again by earthquakes, and the present building is from 1771 to a different design. The interior is lavish, and outside is the ornate tomb of Mehmet II and his wife Gülbahar Hatun.
Completed in 1851, this houses a mantle said to have been worn by the prophet Muhammad. The mantle is displayed during Ramadan.
Turkish: Aya Yorgi, Greek: Agíou Geōrgíou
This is modest from the outside, as the Ottomans would not permit non-Muslim religious buildings to rival the mosques. The interior is lavish but its chief importance is as the senior Eastern Orthodox church. Their Patriarchate has been housed here since 1586 when they were ejected from Agia Sophia.
Turkish: Özel Fener Rum Lisesi, Greek: Μεγάλη του Γένους Σχολή
This is the red-brick castle seen south of St George. Built 1881/83, it teaches the standard Turkish curriculum plus Greek language and culture, and the tower houses an observatory. No visits.
Pammakaristos Church
The Church of Theotokos Pammakaristos ("All-Blessed Mother of God") was built between the 11th and 12th centuries. The parekklesion or side-chapel was added maybe 1300, with rich mosaics. The main building became a mosque in 1591, named for Sultan Murad III's conquest (fetih, hence Fethiye) of Georgia and Azerbaijan: the interior was opened up, but the chapel was undisturbed and in modern times became a museum. In 2020 the entire building was proclaimed a mosque, and every scrap of Byzantine artistry was covered up, so now there's nothing worth seeing.
Sveti Stefan Kilisesi
A remarkable Bulgarian Orthodox church better known as Demir Kilise, "Iron Church", as it's a cast iron prefab. The Bulgarians split from the Greek Orthodox and established their own wooden church in 1870, which burned down. The ground was too weak for a masonry or concrete structure so they opted for cast iron. The sections were cast in Vienna, shipped here and assembled, to open in 1898. The church was renovated in 2018, but the archpatriarchate building across the street remains a gaunt shell.
This was built in the 1430s by Grecian Jews ("Romaniotes") from the city of Ohrid, now in North Macedonia. The district of Balat was a Jewish quarter, swelled from 1492 by those expelled from Spain. The synagogue is only open for pre-arranged tours.
Tekfur Sarayı
The Byzantines built several great palaces in Constantinople and this is the only one to survive almost intact. It's from the late 13th century, in typical alternating marble and red-brick rows, and was an imperial residence: Porphyrogenitus means "born to the purple" indicating the heir to the crown. Yet it was merely an annex or pavilion within the much greater Palace of Blachernae, of which nothing else remains. It's set within the north end of the Theodosian Walls and was much bashed during the Ottoman capture. Later it was variously a menagerie, brothel, pottery, poorhouse and bottle works, then fell derelict in the 20th century. In 2021 it re-opened as a museum.
Chora Church
Chora means countryside, and when built as a monastery in the 4th century it stood outside the Constantine walls; a century later, it was incorporated into the Theodosian walls. It was rebuilt in the 11th century then wrecked by an earthquake, so the structure and fabulous mosaics you see now are from the 14th century. When the church was converted to a mosque in 1500 the mosaics were plastered over, and only restored in 1958 when it became a museum. In 2020 it was again proclaimed a mosque but here (unlike Fethiye Mosque) they saw the sense and tourist income of preserving the mosaics. About 15 minutes before prayer times, visitors are sent out and (if they have kept their ticket) can come back around half an hour later through the main entrance. Those who attend prayer are sent out after prayer; they cannot stay to visit and can only access the parts of the chora that lead to the prayer room.
This is a circular indoor space enclosed by a 3D depiction of the Ottomans breaching the Walls of Constantinople on 29 May 1453, with sound effects. It's over-priced, unhistorical and tourist-trappy.
Sümbül Efendi Mosque
Built in the early 5th century as a monastery dedicated to Saint Andrew the Apostle, in 766 it was the burial place of Saint Andrew of Crete and was later re-dedicated to him. It was rebuilt in the late 9th century and again in the 13th, then around 1490 converted into a mosque. From the 16th century it was occupied by the Dervishes, when the legend arose that a chain hung to a cypress tree in the courtyard was a truth diviner. The chain was swung between rival witnesses and the one it hit was telling the truth. The cypress stump is still standing.
İmrahor Mosque
Byzantine monastery complex built in 463 AD. In the 15th century it served as İmrahor Mosque, but was wrecked by fires and earthquakes. A ruin it remains, and plans to restore it as a mosque have come to nothing. You'll probably find it locked.
The Golden Gate was the ceremonial entrance through the Theodosian city walls. After the Ottomans captured the city in 1453, Mehmed II needed a stronghold for his treasures and documents. The gate was therefore bricked up and the walls reinforced into a fortress, with valuables stored in its seven towers, hence yedi kule. In the following century the treasury moved to Topkapi Palace and the fort became a prison for high-level detainees - Osman II was strangled here in 1622. It remained in use until 1837, whereupon the Golden Gate was re-opened.
A neighborhood with colorful houses and stairs all along.
Bathhouse built in 1556 by Mimar Sinan, the chief Ottoman architect, at the request of Hürrem Sultan (Roxelana), wife of Suleiman the Magnificent. It was built over the former public baths of Zeuxippus, abandoned around 713. Restored in 2011, it's now an upmarket spa.
Built in 1584, credited to Mimar Sinan but he probably only had light-touch supervision. It was astride the city's highway from Europe and very profitable, in spite of multiple earthquakes and fires. It fell out of use late 19th century but in the 21st was revived as a tourist experience.
Built in 1741, the last major hamam opened in the Ottoman era. It has ornate architecture, great service and a stellar cast of famous visitors. Prices to match, and only tourists now use it.
Established in 1777, this is one of the cheaper options. It's marble throughout and the fittings could be original. It has a mixed main section and a separate female section for the scrubbing.
Commissioned by Süleyman the Magnificent and built by Mimar Sinan in 1550, at the east edge of Süleymaniye mosque complex. It had private cubicles for distinguished visitors such as the sultan, but was mostly a standard working-class bathhouse. It was restored in 2001 and is nowadays touristy. It's the only mixed hamam in Istanbul, but mixed sessions are only for couples and families.
Inexpensive family-friendly restaurant.
Their specialty is pide.
Welcoming small restaurant, good value.
Relaxing place for traditional pide.
Good value Çiǧ köfte (spicy wrap with a vegan tatar) takeaway. Ali the owner is an Instagram celeb for his videos jibing customers, so you may be in a long line.
Great place for breakfast in a non-touristy area.
A place that serves home-made style foods ("ev yemekleri") which you can order from the counter. Great variety.
Cafe spread over three floors and a roof terrace with views over the sea and Blue Mosque. Good range of Turkish meals and mezes, with veggie choices.
Decent trad food and ice cold beer. Lounge in the comfy bean-bag chairs, and backgammon and Nargileh are available. The restaurant looks down into the foundations of a Roman-era palace.
Good Ottoman cuisine with veggie and GF choices.
Not cheap, but good value for its Ottoman and Turkish cuisine, service and vibe.
Good Korean cuisine.
Steaks, burgers and similar.
Decent burgers, sit in or take away. They have ten other city locations.
Good Chinese food.
A trip in both history and gastronomy.
Open-air cafe on the coast with great views, though the park is grubby. Tea, coffee and many flavours of hubble-bubble.
Shisha / hookah cafe in the courtyard of the former Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medrese, so plenty of Ottoman ambience.
Established in 1876, this cafe specializes in boza, a ferment of bulgur wheat with a sweetish tart taste. A favourite of the Ottomans, it's still popular in the Balkans and Central Asia. It's less than 1% alcohol, but it was the closest you got to being off your head in Neolithic times.
Very small rooms.
Friendly hotel, rooms have air-con, TV and minibar.
Rooms with own bathroom, cable TV, air-con.
Clean rooms with en suite bathroom and satellite TV.
formerly Dongyang; 100 m west of Agia Sophia
Rooms with en suite bathroom, satellite TV, and internet access.
Simple rooms with en-suite bathroom and satellite TV. Variable on cleanliness.
Clean friendly place, all rooms en-suite.
Modern rooms, good location and usually clean.
Welcoming and helpful staff, solo women feel safe.
Amazing value for the location, with six and eight bed dorms, helpful and friendly staff. No real common room.
Basic but central, clean and friendly.
Neat cozy hotel near the main sights. They have another on Akbıyık Cd..
Small mid-range hotel, clean and central but needs a lot of maintenance. Try to get a south-facing room with balcony.
Central and clean, some noise, good value for the price. Many stairs, not suitable for the disabled.
Small friendly hotel.
Clean comfy place near the seafront. Rooftop restaurant has views of the sea and the Blue Mosque.
Welcoming five-floor hotel with Ottoman-style décor, next to Theodosius Cistern.
Very central comfy 3-star.
Pleasant hotel in a quiet street near Agia Sophia, with simple rooms decorated in Turkish style.
Hotel on a quiet street 3 minutes walk from Agia Sofya, decorated in Ottoman style. The rooftop terrace looks out over the Sea of Marmara and Princes Islands.
Pleasant small hotel 100 m west of Blue Mosque.
Decorated in 19th century Ottoman-style, with great welcome and service.
Comfy place near the Grand Bazaar.
In a quiet area with modern rooms.
Value-for-money hotel near seafront.
Small well-furnished rooms around a garden courtyard.
Small rooms but friendly staff and sea views.
Rebuild of an 18th century Ottoman mansion. There are 17 rooms, a traditional courtyard and a roof terrace bar with panoramic views.
Boxy inexpensive place often used by tour groups.
Charming hotel with 42 rooms, each dedicated to a wife of the sultan.
Charming friendly hotel near Sirkeci station.
A converted prison built in 1918 near Sultanahmet mosque, great reviews for comfort and service. Their sister hotel is further up the Bosphorus.
formerly Celal Aga
87 rooms with spa and pool. Dreadful reviews in late 2024 but they've since much improved.
Clean welcoming modern hotel.
Kapalı Çarşı
Vast historic covered bazaar with over 4400 shops. These are organized around their wares, so the silver jewellers are clustered together, shoe shops are together in another alley, and so on. Prices are double those elsewhere and locals don't shop here, but it's an atmospheric place with a vast selection, and some of the antique dealers have genuinely rare stock.
Mısır Çarşısı
Smaller than Grand Bazaar, it specialises in herbs and spices. Very touristy, but prices (even after haggling) are twice those in the rest of the city.
Attractive but pricey textiles.
Sells rugs and kilims as well as pillowcases (all produced in Uzbekistan). Pillowcases are between €10 and 60, depending on the material.
Raw gems and finished jewellery, especially chalcedony, the semi-precious stone named for the ancient town of Chalcedon, nowadays Kadıköy across the Bosphorus.
AVM (alışveriş merkezi) means a shopping mall, and Historia is the only one in the Old City. Usual selections of garments, electronics, furniture, a large supermarket, plus a bowling alley, fast food and a cinema. Across the alley, Fenari İsa Mosque was an early Byzantine church, renovated as a mosque in the 1970s.
By train
Sirkeci used to be the main point of arrival from Europe. It's long been closed to mainline trains, which now terminate at Halkali 25 km west.
By tram
Trams are swish and modern. Heritage trams may be trundled out for special events.
By bus
Lots. Any bus to Eminönü or Beyazıt will pass within 10 mins walk of Sultanahmet.
By boat
Eminönü Pier has ferries from Kadıköy and Üsküdar Asia-side, from further up the Bosphorus, from up the Golden Horn, and from the Princes' Islands.
By taxi
Lots of yellow taxis wherever vehicles are permitted in the Old City; they haunt the main attractions and Uber is available. They're inexpensive, see Istanbul#Get around for sample fares.
On foot
Most of the sights in the old city are near Sultanahmet Square and within walking distance. You're destined to do a lot of walking, as streets are traffic-restricted.
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Pendik, Istanbul · International · SAW
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