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Core city in Hokkaido, Japan
Photo: Keihin nike, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Hakodate (函館) is a port city in Southern Hokkaidō, Japan. Separated by the 20-km long Tsugaru Strait (津軽海峡) from Honshu, Japan's main island, the city has naturally been seen as an entrance to Hokkaido. Like Kanazawa and Nagasaki, Hakodate is one of the hidden gems of Japanese tourism. Everyone should see Kyoto and Tokyo, because they're amazing cities. But Japanese domestic tourists, having done those cities before, come in droves to some places that international tourists may not have heard of and appreciate the fabulous food, culture and history of some of Japan's lesser known cities. Hakodate should not be missed on a trip to Hokkaido.
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函館山 hakodate-yama, 334m
Offers spectacular views of the city of Hakodate in clear weather and offers, according to locals, one of the three best night views of not merely Japan but the entire world (the other claimants being Naples and Hong Kong). The busiest time is during sunset, so if you plan to take a sunset photograph, be ready to arrive early and claim your spot... and be prepared for a 40-minute waiting queue to catch the cable car back from the summit.
函館要塞跡
Fort Hakodate, also known as Tsugaru Fort (津軽要塞), is located on Mount Hakodate. This was a World War II battery (though it predates World War II as a fort) which now has been recreated with camping tables where the air batteries used to be. From the upper ropeway station, use the lower exit on the left of the arrival/departure deck and follow the stairs downward to a second parking lot. There you'll see a sign of the west battery, just follow the path. For the east and south battery you have to hike or take a car there.
五稜郭
A star-shaped fort, a symbolic site to the city itself. Completed in 1864, this was Japan's first Western-style fortress and finished just in time for it to be occupied by the Ezo Republic as their headquarters. It never saw any action though, as the rebels surrendered peacefully. Most of the fort was consequently demolished and this is now a large park and popular cherry-blossom spot in spring. The fort also houses a small museum with exhibits on local history (rotating each year). (JR Goryōkaku station is not near to Goryōkaku. Tram or bus are recommended.)
五稜郭タワー
From the 90-meter viewing platform you can get a striking view of the star-shaped fort. Neat dioramas tell the story of the Enomoto and Ezo Republic (see sidebox), and the role of the fort in Hakodate's history; an English pamphlet is available. The views from Goryōkaku Tower is different on each season. In spring, you can enjoy seeing 1,600 cherry blossoms and the view from the tower is a best place to see them. However, it takes at least 3 hours to go up the tower in cherry blossom season because of the crowds. In summer, you can enjoy full green trees, and in fall you can enjoy the changing leaves. In winter, Goryōkaku is covered with snow and is illuminated at night.
元町
This is the historical district. One popular attraction is the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward (旧函館区公会堂 Kyū-hakodateku-kōkai-dō), a European-style building which housed Hakodate's government in the early 1900s. The various churches and consulates in the area, dating to the early days of foreign trade with Japan, are also frequented by tourists. There is a pleasant walk up going from the Higashi Honganji Temple (東本願寺函館別院 higashi-honganji-hakodate-betsuin) all the way up to the Foreign Cemetery (外国人墓地 gaikokujin-bochi). On your way you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church, the Our Lady Star of the Sea Roman Catholic Church (worth a look inside; the door on the side of the main front door isn't locked, it's just heavy and visitors are welcome), the Episcopal Church as well as the old British Consulate, the Old Public Hall, the Old Russian Consulate, as well as other temples in the vicinity of the cemetery. There is also the Gokoku Shrine which houses the remains of the imperial dead following the Battle of Hakodate, as well as the remains of the Choshu rebels that died in the Satsuma Rebellion, although their memorials are not open to the public.
興禅寺
This "Soto Zen" temple was built in 1954. The temple is a popular place for locals to honor their ancestors. This is also a nice place to feel seasons - see colored leaves in various hues from yellow to red in autumn, and snow covered scenery in winter. They are very beautiful.
大山祇神社
This shrine is surrounded by trees with Shiodome River behind. Its main festival is held on the 13th and 14th August every year, which people in Kameo are looking forward to. In this festival, traditional Japanese drums (taiko) are played. Though the festival is very small, you can see Japanese traditional things.
金森赤レンガ倉庫 Kanemori Akarenga Sōko
These warehouses built at the end of the Meiji era now house a variety of commercial facilities, as well as restaurants serving seafood. There is also the first concrete electricity pole of Japan located near there, which seems to attract the interest of Japanese tourists. A night view of Hakodate can be seen from The Blue Moon bay cruise, located at the vicinity of the red brick warehouses. The area is especially nice for a night time walk as the buildings are lit up and the area is very atmospheric, especially in winter.
函館市北方民族資料館
Worth a look to gain an understanding of the Ainu, the indigenous people of northern Japan. Ainu culture is rich and fascinating but has historically been forgotten in Japan. A fair number of signs and labels are translated to English and an English pamphlet is available.
函館市熱帯植物園
An English pamphlet is available, but most plant labels are in Japanese only. All plants are located in a greenhouse; various banana palms, coffee, hibiscus (lovely flower in autumn) and cacti grow here amongst many others. Even though this is a botanical garden, they have monkeys with a hot tub, parakeets, beetles and turtles. Especially the monkeys seem to attract a lot of Japanese fans, though their cage looks a bit dull. It's possible to buy monkey food pellets for ¥100. Additionally, there's a playground, small track with bumper cars and a shallow pool for kids in the back. And as if that's not enough already, a foot bath is located on the right side just after the entry gate.
函館市青函連絡船記念館摩周丸
Museum telling the history of the Aomori-Hakodate ferry, on an old ferry itself. Signs are only partially translated to English, but some parts of the exhibition are surprisingly interactive. Go up to the bridge and feel like a captain!
函館市縄文文化交流センター
Hakodate Jōmon Culture Center, Minamikayabe, about 60 minutes by bus from Hakodate Station. This small museum covers the Jōmon sites of southern Hakodate and displays pottery, stone tools, ornaments and other archaeological finds. Its highlight is the Hollow Clay Figurine (Chūkū Dogū), a beautifully preserved 41.5-cm figurine dating from about 3,500 years ago and Hokkaido's first National Treasure. The nearby Ōfune and Kakinoshima Jōmon sites can be visited as part of the same excursion.
函館港まつり Hakodate Minato Matsuri
This is Hakodate's biggest carnival and known for very unique Hakodate Squid Dance (函館いか踊り Hakodate Ika-odori) in its parade Wassyoi Hakodate (ワッショイはこだて Wasshoi Hakodate). The parade is normally in the 2nd and 3rd day (2nd day: Jujigai to Matsukaze-cho, 3rd day: Horikawa-cho to Goryokaku). Also there are a fireworks event in 1st day. (Please note that this schedule may be changed because of the weather.)
A giant Christmas tree is displayed floating on the sea in the red-brick warehouses (金森赤レンガ倉庫群) area during the festival each year. Lighting-up events with fireworks are held every night. This Christmas trees are presented by Halifax, Canada every year.
亀尾ふれあいの里 Kameo Fureai no Sato
Here you can experience agriculture. Everyone can enjoy this place. You can sow seeds and plant vegetables. For example, you can grow strawberries, rice, buckwheat and sweet potato. After the food developed, you can harvest it. You can also pick cherries there. The adult rate is ¥400, and the rate for children is ¥200.
函館七飯スノーパーク hakodate nanae sunōpāku
A mid-sized ski resort adjacent to Lake Onuma and accessible by bus from Onuma Station. Features 2 chairlifts and a gondola as well as a rental shop.
谷地頭温泉
A hot spring near Mount Hakodate. This is muddy hot spring as opposed to the clear hot spring at the Yunokawa Hot Springs on the other end of the tram line. Most users are local residents of Hakodate. A cafeteria is on site. Soap and towels are available for an extra fee. Free parking available.
湯の川温泉 足湯
A free foot bath with multi-lingual information signs about the history of the place. The water temperature is pretty hot, it takes a little time to get used to it. Bring a towel to dry off your feet after the bath, or just let them air-cool otherwise.
朝市 asa-ichi
Explore this lively market and its stalls. In and around the market are there many small restaurants where you can eat all kinds of preparations of squid and other fishes, including the "odori-don" dish.
アジアンバー ラマイ
A small chain of Indonesian-style soup curry restaurants found in many locations across Hokkaido. Has an unusually large scale for spiciness (up to infinity!) and also features several difference house specials, of which the spiciest is 'Dewi Fujin.' There are two other locations in the city (see website) but are not as easy to access without use of an automobile.
函館ビヤホール hakodate-biahōru
This food-and-beer restaurant, located in a red brick warehouse in the akarenga district, combines a German bierhalle atmosphere into its interior design. The large food menu includes a good selection of seafood dishes, western specialties such as pizza and spaghetti, and there are a couple of locally-brewed beers on tap, although quite pricey (¥870 for a pint). English menu with pictures available.
ラッキーピエロ
This hamburger restaurant chain is exclusive to Hakodate, popular among citizens and known for reasonable prices. Each franchise is decked out in its own unique kitsch including one in art deco and another in year-round Christmas themes. They made international news when they offered a “whale burger”, which one blogger called more poetically a “whale whopper”. ラッピー (rappi), as called by locals, does indeed have a menu as eccentric as its décor. The most popular item is called “Chinese Chicken”. This hamburger contains chicken, lettuce and mayonnaise and is very delicious. Following that is the mountainous "Mount Hakodate" burger, measuring a lofty 1800 kcal and stacked to the brim with every other burger on their menu. Other items include pizzas, cakes, hamburgers and fried rice omelets.
This is a bakery. There are many delicious sweet rolls and cakes. There are apple pies, chocolate sticks, cream puffs and bread as well. This bakery often staffs disabled people, which gives them work opportunities they may not have otherwise.
手打ち蕎麦 きたわせ
A small but very charming soba restaurant hidden along the main tram line running east. The staff and atmosphere are very inviting and the multitude of soba lunch and dinner sets are sure to satisfy. Make sure to try some of their soba-flavored soft-serve ice cream for dessert.
ティーショップ夕日
A delightful place to relax after seeing the main sights. This cozy wooden building serves delicious teas, along with light snacks. The window seats offer a great view of the bay and the staff is very friendly. English menu available.
北海ラーメン
Ramen shop solely run by an old lady. No English menu, but a bit of Ramen lingo gets you far. Especially the char siu is spectacular.
キングベーク
If you search for pastries that are comparable to what you'd get in central Europe, King Bake is your destination. You can find the western classics (croissants, etc.) as well as the Japanese counterparts (e.g. curry-bun). They have sandwiches and also serve breakfast and meals. In addition to the main branch, pastries to go are sold in a little shop located in the entry hall of JR Hakodate station.
A surfer-style bar open 'til morning.
バービッグジョブ
An English-style standing room only bar featuring a selection of bottled Belgian beers. Chairs are often set up outside in front of the bar during the warmer months of the year.
アイリッシュパブエイリーズ
A spacious Irish pub on the 3rd floor of a building in Goryokaku. Several beer options from around the globe including Guinness on tap.
Small drinking place 2nd floor. "Nomi-ho Dai" All you can drink for 1½ hours, ¥3000. Look for a "Blue Ship's Anchor" on the sign next to the Boss coffee machine. This street has many bars so it is a little confuzing to find. But if you find it- it's well worth a chat with Osho-san. the owner.
金魚
Elegantly styled drinking establishment. "Nomi-ho Dai" more than 3 people; All you can drink 1½ hours- ¥3500 p/p.
おやど青空
A 2-minute walk from the Hakodate station. It is a cozy inn with clean tatami rooms run by an English speaking Japanese lady. Laundry available and the internet in the lounge area is free.
民宿住友
Five blocks (or street lights) straight on from Hakodate station, or take the bus to Omori-cho. Rooms are typical Japanese 15-tatami Spartan minshuku-style, bathroom included. In 2007, management did not speak English.
All Toyoko Inns are pretty much the same though the Asaichi one is a little bit more in amongst the action with the Morning Market nearby than the Ekimae Daimon. They offer very convenient and cheap rooms and free breakfast but lack the 'Japanese experience' you may get from other options. Rooms can be reserved online through an English website.
コンフォートホテル函館
A business hotel conveniently located next to the train station. Rooms are small but clean, and the price includes breakfast.
プレミアホテル-CABIN PRESIDENT-函館
Formerly "Four Points by Sheraton". The rooms are small but the location is excellent. The bar on the 13th floor has nice views and can do you a decent martini.
函館国際ホテル (Hakodate International Hotel)
Pricey, but worth it if you can get a room with a view of the bay. Nice location not far from the station and near the red brick warehouse area and not far from the old part of town. Called the "Kokusai" (international) hotel, but nothing particularly international about it apart from the name.
A hotel that is south of the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse. Offers a range of different accommodation from hostel style shared dormitories to individual rooms in a historic bank building. Family rooms that sleep up to 6 are also available. Within walking distance to many attractions near Motomachi, including the ropeway station. Good for travelers on a budget or those traveling in a large group.
ペンション パピィーテール
When entering, you might feel like time stood still for the last 50 years. The furniture apart from the TV, AC and smart toilet seat looks old, but is still in good shape and functional. They offer Japanese- and Western-style rooms, many with a shared bathroom, for a reasonable price. English is spoken pretty well.
朝市 asa-ichi
Crammed into a couple of bayfront buildings, rows of vendors sell a variety of seafood, but the main attraction is the huge selection of Hokkaidō's famous crabs. Open 5:00 (6:00 in the winter) until noon. Next to the market are a number of restaurants, most of which specialize in seafood-topped donburi (rice bowl).
By train
Hakodate has three train stations of note:
By boat
Hakodate's main ferry terminal is roughly halfway between Hakodate Station and Goryokaku Station, and a 20-minute walk from Nanae-hama Station on the Isaribi line.
Hakodate is connected by two (practically one that branches to the SW of the city) streetcar lines and roughly two-hundred bus lines.
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