Municipality in Lombardy, Italy
Photo: Carlo Maria Pensa, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Esino Lario is a mountain village in the Esino valley, between Lake Como and Valsassina in the Province of Lecco, in the Lombardy region of northern Italy. The village has a history of tourism that started in the late 19th century with scientists fascinated by the karst phenomena of the Grigna mountains and searching for fossils and the almost 500 caves of Moncodeno. From this early tourism a number of small hotels, restaurants and villas were built. Tourism developed greatly in the 1960s and 1970s. Today Esino Lario – 12 km above Lake Como and connected to Valsassina – is a special location for summer mountain holidays and a starting point for excursions in the Grigna mountains and the Regional Northern Grigna Park.
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This is one of the two centres of Esino, which was two villages (Esino Superiore and Esino Inferiore) until 1927; each village had its own church and there was a common church in the so-called "Castello" (the castle). Esino superiore still has its own historical centre of characteristic houses all built close to each other with narrow alleys and staircases passing through. It is inhabited all year round much more than Esino Inferiore. It is worthwhile to pass through the small Church of Sant'Antonio Abate and Piazza Caprera. It is also nice to pass through the small street of Via Cainallo to look from above at the village and at the numerous villas of Villaggio Riva. The best time to visit Esino superiore is in January during the celebration of Sant'Antonio Abate (Anthony the Great), when all restaurants and residents prepare the local ravioli pàtole and the children climb the tower of the small church to ring the bells by moving the clappers with their hands; the older children teach the younger ones the melody and – by working in a team and sharing the tasks – they compose a series of melodies. In summer a party is regularly organized with food sellers in the street and some ballroom dancing. From Piazza Caprera in Esino superiore, you can access the trail to Agueglio. From via Cainallo, the streets continue on the trail to Gromeduccio and Cainallo.
This is the other centre of Esino. It is mainly inhabited during the summer and many of the houses are nicely restored holiday homes. The small Church of San Giovanni and its square is a nice spot surrounded by a dense network of homes. It is worth looking at the doors, porches and balconies of the oldest mountain houses. The trail to Bigallo and Ortanella departs from Esino Inferiore.
A frazione (municipal subdivision) of Esino outside the main village at around 10 minutes by car or 1 hour by foot from the centre. Ortanella has a soft landscape with easy walks, trails in the woods, many picnic equipped areas and some impressive belvedere on the entire Lake Como up. Visiting the little church of San Pietro in Ortanella is a very charming walk and it offers a quite incredible view of both shores of the lake, from Lierna and Isola Comacina to Colico, Bellagio, Lago del Piano toward Switzerland and of course all the mountains around. Ortanella has a pond with a playground for children, the Percorso vita (fitness trail) and a series of signs to explain the flora and fauna of the area. In August Ortanella hosts some local events and barbecues and it is the departure point for excursion on the Monte Fopp and towards the Sentiero del viandante.
A località (locality) of Esino outside the main village at around 15 minutes by car or 1 hour by foot from the centre. The landscape in Cainallo is fully alpine with a view of the rugged rocks of Grigna mountains. Cainallo has a small pond, a playground, a small church (built by the Gilera family), equipped picnic areas and it is a small ski resort. Just above in Vo' di Moncodeno in Cainallo (reachable by car in 5 minutes) start a large variety of trails and excursions to the Grigna mountains and its mountains shelters. Cainallo is also a pasture and cows and horses can be seen grazing the grass in summer. It is possible to help in the production of milk and cheese. The Rifugio Cainallo – just right when you arrive in Cainallo – is a good place for a meal and it is a hotel.
To visit the cave you need a guide, helmets, harnesses and a head torch.
A church which in 1979 became a military memorial (sacrario militare).
As in many hill and mountain zones, Esino has a Via Crucis (that is, a circuit of shrines that depict the Passion of Christ). Esino's Via Crucis was created by the Milanese sculptor Michele Vedani (1874-1969), who used to vacation in Esino. In the first shrine (Jesus in front of Pontius Pilate), you can see Christ facing his verdict with strength and bravery; his body looks powerful and majestic, while Pilate, sitting with an absent-minded expression, abdicates his own role as judge, referring to the papers on his knees for support. In the eleventh one (Jesus on the cross) you can see a weak and slim Christ, exhausted by pain and strain, while on the other side, a Roman centurion may be seen on his horse, with a strong and regal posture. One interesting fact about the sculptures of this Via Crucis is that they were made from low-quality bronze, so when Mussolini's government requested the sculptures' destruction so that the metal could be repurposed to military use, the local parson was able to successfully argue that since the sculptures were made from low-quality material, it wasn't worthwhile to reuse it.
This is the main church of Esino Lario, dedicated to San Victor and mentioned in a document as early as the 13th century. The wooden sacristy deserves a visit. The church also hosts two tapestries on religious subjects from the tapestry school of Esino Lario, which was active from 1936 to 1961 and won several gold medals at the Triennale di Milano.
The ruins of the Esino Lario tower are visible from the centre and you can pass close by on trail 22 C. It is one of the sighting towers used as the fortification system of the territory. The tower belongs to a private owner and it is in poor condition.
Museo delle Grigne
In a new building behind Villa Clotilde from 2016, with an area on the first floor of Villa Clotilde also. This local museum has a collection of archeology and paleontology. It preserves some of the rich archeological finds of the territory and it has a large collection of fossils of the Grigna mountains. The museum also presents a small demo-ethnology-anthropological collection. The archeological session will be further developed: a few pieces of the paleontological collection will be highlighted in a more contextualized installation and a floor of the museum will be devoted to the relationship between man and the mountain (the topic at the centre of the Ecomuseo delle Grigne) with the demo-ethnology-anthropological collection and the contemporary art collection. One section is dedicated to material culture with the farmer objects exposition. Added to this is a focus on the Tapestry School of Esino Lario. It was possibly Luigi Furiosi, a designer employed by the Carcano family, industrialists in the field of tin and aluminum, who imagined the synthetic and symbolic representation of Mandello in View of Mandello, maybe to celebrate an important anniversary of the Carcano company. At the foothills of the mountains, in the central part of the tapestry, we can spot the hydraulic factory of Sheets of Tin Foil of the Carcano family who started their business in Somana in 1895. The village of Mandello del Lario is recognizable thanks to some distinctive marks: the mountains which surround it as a natural background, the lake, but mainly the churches and typical buildings of the village. Everything seems to be plunged in the blue shades of the sky and this confers the work an enchanted atmosphere. The Grape Harvest surely is a significant work of art, both in terms of size (220x160cm) and artist, the famous Umberto Lilloni. The tapestry won the golden medal at the 9th Triennale di Milano in 1951. It represents five women and a young boy harvesting grapes. It is as if the artist had stopped time, leaving the characters in the middle of their movement: even if all the characters have a precise task, they are shown together as if they were light figures on the tapestry's surface. The artist describes with particular attention some details (such as the gestures, the grapes, the baskets) while leaving the atmosphere and the space behind the characters undefined, as if in a fairy tale: a wonderful frame from a cartoon.
The home of the Ecomuseo delle Grigne (the Ecomuseum of Grigne) and the Pietro Pensa Archive. The archive, whose oldest parchment dates to 16 May 1324, normally cannot be visited. Villa Clotilde also hosts some of the collections of the Museo delle Grigne: the collection of coleoptera of the Grigna mountains, the collection of Italian butterflies, and some stuffed animals. The most fascinating aspect of these collections is that they have been installed by the artist Roberto Paci Dalò in the sound installation titled Animagus; visitors are encouraged to browse the collections on the second floor with a small torch, immersed in a forest of sounds. There are some old grinders in the grounds.
Outdoor.
Outdoor. The structure is managed by the volunteers of the association Polisportiva.
Outdoor and indoor. The structure is managed by the volunteers of the association Polisportiva.
Outdoor and indoor. The structure is managed by the volunteers of the association Polisportiva.
Six different exercises (very easy, easy, middle-rande, middle-range/challenging, challenging and very challenging) which can be done with the use of a series of simple fitness tools distributed in an itinerary of 2 km (16 stops) in the woods of Ortanella.
Cainallo used to be a significant ski resort but since the 1990s the skiing is limited to one skylight, one taps round and three slopes: basically it is a good place for beginners and children to try skiing. The skiing is managed by the non profit organization Esino 2000 Onlus and its volunteers; it is possible to rent equipment.
The Moncodeno is a very well-known area for caving. There is frequent speleology research on the almost 500 caves of that area, which occupies less than 2 km². Researchers use Rifugio Bogani as a base camp.
In Esino there is a climbing wall outside the sport hall. The Grigna mountains present quite a few climbing routes all departing from Cainallo: Pilastro di Prada Via della libertà (6a, 5b, 130 m altimetric excursion), Pilastro di Prada Via CAI Vedano (5c, 4, 150 m altimetric excursion), Falesia dei Lares (6a/8a, 50 m altimetric excursion), Cainallo Animal House (6c+, 8b+, 40 m altimetric excursion), Grigna Settentrionale Sasso Cavallo / Parete sud Via Ludo Mentis (7b, 400 m altimetric excursion), Esino (5b/8b, 20 m altimetric excursion), Parete di Piancaformia (La Belle Epoque, 6c, 180 m; Libertà controllata, 170 m; Arma letale, 6b, 130 m), Cima di Sengg (6b, 300 m altimetric excursion; via Ginsengg), Sasso Cavallo ( Febbre da cavallo (6a/7b, 250 m altimetric excursion).
An winter outdoor sport which can be practiced in Cainallo and Ortanella. Every year an evening snowshoeing walk is organized in Cainallo by the local associations.
The territory is suitable for birdwatching. Birds of prey (rapaci): buzzard (poiana), kestrel (gheppio), hawk (sparviero) and black kite (nibbio bruno); woodpeckers and sparrows.
Since 2014 Esino Lario has organised a mountain running contest called sky race (March)
The starting point of many excursions in the Grigna mountains. You can park your car at Vo' di Moncodeno for €2 per day (buy the parking cards in Esino Lario).
An excursion from Vo' di Moncodeno and reachable in 45 minutes. The walk is pretty steep but it is manageable by children (from 4-5 years old and it will take 1½-2 hours). The mountain shelter Baitello dell'Amicizia (1740) is just below the peak and there is a cross there (Monte Croce means mountain cross, 1780 m); there is a great view of Lake Como from both the cross and the shelter. The "Festa del Monte Croce" (the annual celebration of the mountain, the construction of the shelter and the Alpini) takes place on the first Sunday of July.
6.5 km (4 miles) trekking itinerary going along the ways that have been walked for centuries to reach Esino Lario from Varenna.
A walking itinerary within Esino Lario to see the most notable villas built between 1920 and 1970.
7 km (4.5 miles) trekking itinerary through woods and meadows of Esino up to the viewpoint of Sasso di San Defendente.
There are no toilets; Villa Clotilde which is in the same garden has toilets (accessible during its opening hours, essentially in week-ends in the morning) and there is the bar restaurant 58 near-by.
There are no toilets but the bars and restaurants Oasi and Montanina are near-by.
There are no toilets but the bar restaurant Rifugio Cainallo is near-by and there is quite a lot of green space around.
There are no toilets but the bar restaurant Cacciatori is near-by and there is quite a lot of green space around.
A week of sports for children who can test and try a wide variety of different sports (volleyball, soccer, archery, handball, judo, karate, badminton, hockey on the grass, climbing, basket, baseball, athletics). The camp is for 5-12 years-old children and it is organized in two rounds.
A week of activities for children organized by the Northern Grigna Regional Park. It includes visits, excursions and laboratories and every day focuses on a specific topic (flora with the identification of plants and the production of small herbarium, fauna with the identification of animal traces, the work of speleologists, the production of milk and cheese...). Since 2014 they organize 2 weeks: 1 week devoted to younger children (5-10) and 1 week for older children (which includes also a sleep-over in a pasture).
The local Kindergarten is managed by a non profit association and – according to the availability of places – it is possible to enroll children between 18 months (they need to be able to walk) up to 5 years-old for the summer activities in July; also non residents can access to the service. During July the Kindergarten has a light program of activities and it is basically a game room; it also provides lunch.
As in many Italian towns, there are summer activities organized by the oratory (managed by the parish and involving volunteers). Essentially children of primary school (6-11 years old) do their summer homework and they are engaged in some games and team games.
Lighting fires outside picnic area is prohibited. You can apply to the city council for a permit.
Lighting fires outside picnic area is prohibited. You can apply to the city council for a permit.
A sandwich bar, quite large and a good place also for aperitifs.
A place for a sandwich. It is a small bar with a counter and few tables.
A place for artisanal gelato. It has some benches outside to sit.
A quite large restaurant used also for weddings. Italian cuisine with regional specialities, it also serves pizza not every day.
Modern, with around 60 seats inside and a terrace. Italian cuisine with regional specialities, it also serves pizza not every day. The menu has some interesting receipts designed with a contemporary interpretation of traditional ingredients, like the Spaghetti con misultin.
Mainly a pizzeria with also some pasta dishes and sandwiches.
A large restaurant used also for weddings. Italian cuisine with regional specialities.
Italian cuisine with some regional specialities.
You can eat inside and outside. It is really perfect for children; it has a large green space around, a small park for children with a slide and swings, and a "campo di bocce" (bowling green). It is also the perfect stop for an excursion, since the restaurant is nicely connected to Esino with pedestrian paths which is manageable even with strollers (the local Kindergarten organizes its summer lunch there with children, families and strollers, and it takes around 1 hour for 3 year-old children to get there by foot from the village).
A quite large restaurant used also for weddings. Regional cuisine with meat and polenta as a specialty.
A large restaurant used also for weddings. Italian cuisine with regional specialities, in particular game.
Regional cuisine and local ingredients.
Regional cuisine and simple mountain recipes with meat and polenta. Nice cheese from the near-by pasture of Moncodeno and good cakes, speciality of the chef.
Regional cuisine and simple mountain recipes with meat and polenta.
Regional cuisine and simple mountain recipes with meat and polenta.
The camping area is indicated with signs; it is not equipped but it has a fountain at a very short distance and there are picnic areas and the Percorso vita around.
A mountain shelter build by the CAI Val d'Esino. 18 bunk beds.
A mountain shelter built and managed by ANA Esino Lario.
A mountain shelter built and managed by CAI Val d'Esino.
Managed mountain shelter with beds and restaurant. Around 50 bunk beds.
Managed mountain shelter with beds and restaurant.
Managed mountain shelter with beds and restaurant.
It is a dorm managed by the Scouts and it can be rented or used for specific events. It has 55 beds, 4 bathrooms inside the building, 1 bathroom outside the building. The dorm is a simple and clean accommodation with kitchen, 2 large living rooms and a garden providing also the possibility of camping.
It is a dorm-like accommodation owned by PIME, the Pontificio Istituto Missioni Estere (Pontifical Institute for Foreign Missions) and it can be rented or used for specific events. It has 70 beds and it is at about 20 minutes walk from the centre (also with nice trails).
2 apartments (7 beds and 5 beds) with 2 rooms each, living room, kitchen and bathroom.
2 stars hotel. 16 rooms, 24 beds.
A hotel above the village, with a wide view on Esino Lario and the mountains. 13 rooms, 20 beds.
An charming hotel immerse in nature. 7 rooms, 19 beds.
23 rooms, 39 beds.
The historical hotel of Esino Lario, built with the first tourism and used by scientists visiting the mountains. A simple accommodation in a charming building. 2 stars hotel, 47 rooms, 75 beds.
3 stars hotel. The highest level of hotel in Esino Lario in an historical villa and with services for people with disabilities. 15 rooms, 25 beds.
5 rooms.
Newspapers, magazines, toys, books, little presents.
Tools, plants, sheets. It is a bazaar indeed.
Cloths for adults and children.
A bar selling also cigarettes, small presents and toys.
A bar selling also cigarettes.
It is a little supermarket and it has great bakery products (which is their speciality); in particular local biscuits and a unique bread they call "la ciambella" which is a huge thin bun almost 1 meter large which is sold in pieces and distributed also in several other bakeries in the territory outside Esino.
Fresh fruits and vegetables, and artisanal gelato. They have also some candies, jams, and pre-prepared vegetables.
A small shop with a variety of products, bread, affettato, some meat and packaged products.
A small shop with a variety of products, bread, affettato, some meat and packaged products.
By plane
The most convenient airports are Milano Malpensa (MXP), Milano Linate (LIN) and Milano-Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY).
By train
The nearest railway station is Varenna Esino, actually located in the territory of Perledo and a very short walking distance from Varenna boat station and Varenna centre.
By bus
There is a public bus line connecting Esino Lario to Perledo, Varenna and Bellano. In Varenna the bus stops at the Varenna Esino railway station.
By car
By taxi
There are no taxi companies in Esino Lario; taxi can be found in Varenna and Perledo and at the Varenna Esino station. A ride by taxi to Esino Lario from Varenna Esino station is around €30.
By boat
From Varenna you can sail on Lake Como to many destinations, including Abbadia Lariana, Argegno, Bellagio, Bellano, Careno, Cernobbio, Colico, Como, Gravedona, Isola Comacina, Lecco, Mandello,…
By foot
Walking around the centre is pretty simple and there are signs for the main landmarks. Walking in the mountains can get more complicated.
By bike
There is only one bike you can use in Esino Lario and it is a mountain bike. The local mountain community and the Northern Grigna Regional Park have developed a map of bike roads and trails.
By car
The village has few major roads, and many little roads that you need to be a very careful driver to use (or at least try only with a very small car).
By bus
Buses coming from Varenna make two regular stops in Esino Lario (Piazza Gulfi and Piazza Italia).
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Orio al Serio (BG) · International · BGY
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