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City in County Durham, England
Photo: via Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
Durham is a city in County Durham in North East England. The name is believed to derive from "Dun-holme", or hill-island, due to its location on a meander on the River Wear. On this peninsula lies the well-preserved old core of the city, with an imposing Norman Cathedral and Castle. The castle is part of University College Durham, while the modern university has expanded south of the river.
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Built by the Normans from 1072, it was much altered in the 19th century, and is part of a World Heritage Site. It's now part of University College Durham, and can only be visited on a one-hour tour (hours vary) conducted by current students. Some of them reside within the original Keep, the oldest student accommodation in the world.
Part of Durham University, this is a small but interesting display from prehistoric to early Medieval times.
This is in the 17th century church of St-Mary-le-Bow, next to the cathedral and often missed by visitors heading there. It displays town history from medieval times to the 20th century.
Durham bishopric was founded in 995 AD by monks from Lindisfarne, fleeing Viking raids, and bringing their holy relics with them. Early Norman bishops were of royal status - hence their title "Prince Bishop" - and they built the present cathedral from 1093. It's a magnificent structure, part of a World Heritage Site, with a soaring nave and 66 metre tower. The relics of Saint Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede, and hundreds of ancient artefacts, are on display in the museum (M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su from 12:30PM, adults £7.50). The northwest (or "Galilee") tower is visited on booked guided tours, adults £7.50, 137 steps and a fair bit of pigeon poo. The cathedral is a working church, please respect services and private prayer, and there may be part-closures at short notice eg for funerals.
Crook Hall is a manor built early 14th century and expanded in the 17th and 18th. In modern times it was used as a wedding venue but went bust in 2020. It was acquired by the National Trust, who re-opened its gardens.
Part of Durham University, this museum displays artefacts from across Asia and North Africa. Search their online data base for material not on display.
10-hectare woodland gardens run by Durham University, with many exotics.
This building, opened in 2024 and run by Durham county council, is both a museum and the home of the county's archives. You can learn a lot about the local history here. It is free to visit and hosts a small café.
This was built as a Roman Catholic seminary from 1804, after the French Revolution drove the priesthood from Douai. Anti-Catholic persecution in England had eased, but there was still a risk of local agitation, so they pretended it was a secular country mansion and screened it behind high beech hedges. You'd think someone would notice that Pugin was the architect, and that many earnest young men in birettas were traipsing in and out, but the landowner was a sympathiser. It became the principal RC seminary in the north of England but closed in 2011. You can visit house, chapel and gardens, and it's sometimes an event venue.
The earliest parts are Norman, but this is mostly an 1820-40s rebuild, a Victorian mansion with mock castellations. You visit by guided tours, dates and times vary but usually on Thursday.
A chapel was founded in the 12th century as an outpost of Durham Priory, on the site of the Hermitage of St Godric. Over the following centuries it grew into a large monastery but was dissolved in 1536. The ruin is now managed by English Heritage.
JCB-themed amusement park where you can take the controls of Dumper Trucks, Mini Diggers, Giant Diggers, and similar muddy monsters.
Central JD Wetherspoon with good food and ale.
Pleasant cafe for light bites in a vennel or alleyway.
Quality bakery and coffee shop with inside and outside seating. Everything homemade, a bit pricey.
A popular Thai restaurant.
Tea Room - Great for afternoon tea
Lively place near the castle, with food, music and dancing.
Pleasant riverside pub by Old Elvet Bridge. They only sell Sam Smith's range of ales, and prohibit using phones. Some outside tables though the river view here is just of Prince Bishops Shopping Centre.
Another trad Samuel Smith's pub, likewise only serving that range and banning phones.
Friendly (and dog- and family-friendly) pub with beer garden and selection of independent local ales.
Splendid traditional pub with Victorian interior, highly rated by CAMRA. Also has rooms.
The Boat Club
Smart comfy central budget hotel.
Welcoming 13-bedroom hotel in converted Victorian mansion. Tall guests should avoid the attic room. Dog-friendly.
Durham used to have four railway stations: this one was Durham Gilesgate, whence the last passenger train departed in 1857. The former station house is now the Travelodge, a reliable budget chain.
Friendly pub and restaurant with rooms beneath the railway viaduct.
Beautiful Edwardian guesthouse facing cathedral across the river. Amazing decor, gets rave reviews. No children under 16 or dogs.
Smart reliable 4-star chain with 207 rooms just blow the railway station. The hotel has an Italian restaurant, two bars and a health club.
4-star hotel in Marriott chain, part dates back to the 17th century, modern amenities plus historic charm in a great location. Comfy and spacious.
Spa and golf hotel near the A1(M) junction.
Relaxing comfy place in Georgian mansion. Basically B&B but can do dinner by arrangement. Dog-friendly.
By train
Durham is on the East Coast Main Line and has excellent train services. Trains to Newcastle are frequent with journeys only taking 15 min.
By car
Follow A1(M), exit at J62 and follow A690 into the city centre. For the University campus south of the city, a faster route from the south is to exit at J61 and follow A177 through Shincliffe.
By bus
National Express connects Durham direct to London Victoria, once per day (NX425) and one overnight (NX435), 7 hr. They also run to Newcastle (twice daily, 30 min).
By sea
DFDS operate an overnight ferry between Port of Tyne, North Shields (near Newcastle) and Ijmuiden near Amsterdam. 16 hr 45 min.
Walk. The centre of Durham is compact and congested, driving is tedious and parking (other than that mentioned above) is effectively non-existent.
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