Northern Armenia, Armenia
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Debed Canyon is in Northern Armenia. There are two cities along the river at the bottom of the canyon, and a good number of villages that are mainly on the plain that is atop the canyon walls. Alaverdi is the biggest city in the region by far. It is known for the large copper mine that operated for many years, and is a pretty industrial city. Tumanyan is the other city of the canyon, in a central part of it. This attractive settlement with a nice square is at the crossroads of many hiking trails and located right across from Kobayr Monastery, though is more of a small town than a city.
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A huge basilica, which has withstood the tests of time for 1,300 years, the church in Odzun is a beauty. There are also some interesting steles, placed there as a memorial, with carvings telling a story, and a large village surrounds the church.
The monastery is built in part at the top of the cliff, in part halfway down. At the top, there is a three-chambered chapel. Below, the walls of the canyon form one of the four walls of the structures. There are caves within the monastic complex, khachkars and carvings. St Mark's Church was built by the Princes Zakare and Ivane Zakarian in 1187. The other buildings were built by Abbot Samuel in 1206.
A 40-minute walk from the center of Tumanyan to this monastery on the cliffs, with its stunning frescoes and carvings. The partially collapsed church once had magnificently exposed frescoes - which are now being covered again as the complex is restored. The setting is really nice, as are the views. Well worth the 15-min walk up the slippery wet lush, green slopes of the canyon above the tiny hamlet of Kober.
St Hovhannes Monastery
Monastery built in 8-17th centuries consists of two small churches and a belfry surrounded by low-height walls. There is also a tetrahedral monument, khachkars (cross stones) and ruins of dwellings.
With the possible exception of Kobayr Monastery, Akhtala has the most exquisite frescoes in Armenia. This fortified monastery, with massive gates and beautiful details, carvings, and ruins, is above a mining town of the same name. Built by the intertwined Armenian-Georgian royalties of the times, this monastery captures the best of both. There are sunken rooms, arches that outlasted their buildings, and nice views.
Ruins of a small black fortress built in 1233.
Part of the same UNESCO site as Sanahin, you'll have a hard time choosing a favourite. The labyrinth of passages, chambers, khachkars and views will leave you wondering how this masterpiece was built. A combined UNESCO world heritage site, these two monasteries sit on top of opposite sides of the Debed Canyon and have vied for first place with one another ever since the beginning. Both are gems, with extensive grounds, buildings and each with a bell tower. Haghpat has a colored khachkar famous for depicting Jesus - highly uncommon among khachkars, and has half-buried buildings.
UNESCO World Heritage site, and for good reason. This wonderland of incredibly well preserved Armenian architecture has stood for almost a thousand years, with little change. You can sense how the place must have buzzed with activity. Sayat Nova, the famous bard, used to sing here. The name literally means "older than that one", referring to Haghpat. This is due to the competition between those two monasteries. However, both originate from pretty much from the same time. Sanahin has a round library building that the groundskeeper can show you, with exquisite carvings. You can take a cable car from the main highway up to Sanahin village, and walk to the monastery (20 min) if you prefer. You will pass the Migoyan Museum on the way up.
Artyom Mikoyan the famous aeronautical engineer, designer of the MIG fighter series (MiG parked out front), while his brother become Premier of the USSR. The price includes a guided tour in English (translated folders in German, French and Spanish are also available at the museum).
Quirky little museum with thousands and thousands of matchbox labels from all over the world. The labels come from different decades, with designs and themes that give an interesting perspective into their time and places.
Tumanyan, one of the most prominent Armenian writers, not only gifted the world with his famous poems and fairy tales, but also helped the Armenian nation during the genocide. You can see his personal items, manuscripts, as well as a peculiar rice-sized miniature sculpture of him. His heart is buried in the garden.
Beautiful semi-ruined monastery with intricate carvings on the side of the canyon, overgrown with vegetation.
Tsover Lich
Have a picnic at Tsover Lake. A picturesque spot with fields, forest, and of course the lake.
Rafting is easily organized on the Debed River. RaftinginArmenia offers rafting excursions.
Perfectly cooked khorovats and kebabs at sit down, indoor/outdoor restaurant, or takeaway kebab sandwiches. Nice soups and salads as well.
Very popular spot for tourists and locals alike. Below the village of Haghpat with an old cave by the restaurant (entrance fee) and standard Armenian fare with great views.
Retro-Soviet cafe with proper espresso machine, wide coffee and tea selection, iced drinks, and light food options. Amazing views.
Attractive old Soviet bathhouse building converted into a hostel with dorm rooms, privates, common area, kitchen and shared bathrooms. The old character of the building has been preserved, with the old bath check-in window now serving as the reception, and many of the old rooms still having the old tile walls. Games available to play either indoors or on the sports field below the hostel. A stream flows by the common hangout area (with fireflies in the early-mid summer).
3 bedroom guesthouse in central Tumanyan with guest use of kitchen. Includes breakfast, and owner can make other meals upon request. Owner lives off premises nearby.
Rustic bed and breakfast at the very southern fringes of Alaverdi.
Super modern hotel/restaurant next to the COAF SMART center for children.
Renovated Soviet pensionat with pool, located above the village of Odzun.
Comfortable small-mid sized hotel in Debet village. Comes with breakfast.
Upscale hotel/restaurant on the shore of the Debed River.
Glamping in Dsegh village.
The main points of entry are Vanadzor from the south and Alaverdi (or further Georgia) from the north.
Read in the guideTaxis and marshutkas are the main forms of transportation, though hitchhiking or regular hiking are also easy.
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Tbilisi · International · TBS
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