
Chicago, United States
Photo: Flickr user: Zach Alexander Boston https://www.flickr.com/people/zach_a/, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Chatham-South Shore is a district at the heart of Chicago's South Side, home to the real Chicago blues, some mind-blowing BBQ, and the best soul food in town.
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The only African American children's museum in the country is named after the Bronzeville neighborhood even though it is much further south.
Old Avalon Theater
Built in 1927 as one of the South Side's most impressive movie palaces, done up in ornate Moorish Revival style, this theater was in operation well past the riots and up into the late 1970s. Since then, the theater has served as a church, and then a performance venue, before finally shuttering its doors in 2003. In 2008, however, the building caught a glimmer of new hope with a purchase by new owners hoping to turn the building into a new cultural venue. The idea hasn't quite taken hold yet, but there is reason to feel optimistic about this Chicago Landmark's long-term future. If you are not getting in for an event in the meantime (and believe it, the interior is in fabulous shape and incredibly beautiful), check out the cool mural on the side and ponder the building's incredible musical history; the venue's performers truly include every single world class blues, jazz, rhythm & blues, funk, and soul musician you can think of: John Coltrane, Count Basie, Nat King Cole, Sammy Davis Jr, Earth Wind & Fire, Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald, the Supremes, Gladys Knight, the Isley Brothers, Billie Holiday, Isaac Hayes, B.B. King, Miles Davis, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye, and so on.
Were it not for the somber atmosphere, Oak Woods would probably be one of Chicago's favorite parks as it is beautifully laid out and has four attractive elongated ponds. The cemetery is the final resting place of many of the South Side's most famous residents, including Olympian runner Jesse Owens, nuclear physicist Enrico Fermi, civil rights leader Ida B. Wells, Mayor William Hale Thompson (perhaps Chicago's most eccentric leader), and the first black mayor of Chicago, Harold Washington Jr. One of the more striking monuments is the memorial to the overwhelming 6,000 Confederate prisoners of war who died at Camp Douglas (on the site of the present day Illinois Institute of Technology in Bronzeville). The mayors' graves are located along the northwest shore of the largest lake (Symphony Lake). If Illinois' ugly political world interests you, you can find "Senator" Roland Burris' ostentatious monument/grave prepared in advance, with a list of his "achievements."
SSCC
An enormous South Side landmark, which once served as the private golf clubhouse — closed to African-Americans. Times have changed. The country club went bankrupt, and the golf course and tremendous building were bought by the Chicago Park District, and then converted into a beautiful and extravagant community center with large chandeliers and floor to ceiling windows. The SSCC hosts plays, live music, and dance performances. It's no stranger to fame, having hosted the wedding receptions of countless South Side notables, including the Obamas; the exterior also served as the "Palace Hotel Ballroom" for the Blues Brothers' big gig.
Perhaps the grandest example of the Polish Cathedral style on the South Side is this towering neogothic church, built in 1909. Of course, economic-driven neighborhood change has meant the end of the Polish steelworker demographic in this parish, which is now heavily Latino. The interior is very impressive — look especially for the hand-sculpted statue of St Michael defeating Lucifer, the oak and marble communion rail, and the enormous, beautiful German-made stained glass windows.
The Church from the Blues Brothers where James Brown played the lively reverend.
Muntu is an innovative and highly acclaimed Chicago dance company, which performs energetic interpretations of African and African-American dances and music. This location, their headquarters, is comprised of offices and a stage, although they regularly travel around Chicago's performance venues.
A community center housing one top-notch African-American theater company, which puts on an extraordinary number of plays, nearly all of them world premieres. The theater is very nice and the community center includes two art galleries featuring mostly local African-American artists. Live music on Music Mondays (second Monday of the month).
One of the best and biggest beaches in Chicago, boasting a magnificent South Side view of the Chicago skyline, where, as of 2024, the first hour of parking is $2, although you may find adjacent street parking for free. Free outdoor movies are often held in the adjacent Rainbow Park.
Ok, this place is cool. A roller rink oozing with South Side character and home to not a few serious skaters who flaunt their moves to smooth R&B and old school. It has shown up a bit in pop culture, from the movies "Soul Food" and "Roll Bounce" to several nationally-aired music videos. If you are intimidated by the pros on the rink but want to check the place out, there are also arcade games and pool/ping-pong tables. It is open to different age groups at different times, so make sure to double-check the hours before coming here.
Nine holes of golf maintained (somewhat) by the Chicago Park Administration. Great skyline views over Lake Michigan from the course.
A must for serious donut eaters as it is home to the legendary "Big Dat" — the mother of all donuts. In addition to quantity (i.e., size), the quality attracts devoted foodies from all over the Chicagoland area.
A wonderful South Shore bakery, where everything is made from scratch (the high prices reflect this).
Serving a pretty delicious, thickish pan pizza pie or by the slice at nice South Chicago prices. The menu is, unsurprisingly, stuffed with random generic South Side fare, but the chicken broaster is also pretty great.
Big to-order burgers at a local favorite. Take-out only, and call ahead well in advance to avoid a long wait. The house specials are the Whammy Burger, which comes with a split Polish on top, and the T.a.B Special, topped with chili, cheese, bacon and egg. Beef or turkey.
Lem's sets the standard against which all Chicago-style barbecue must be judged. Here you'll find the most reliably excellent rib tips and hot links in the city. Takeaways only.
Southern-style bakery known for serving some of the best caramel cakes in Chicago.
This is at once one of the best vegetarian and the best soul food restaurants in town. Occasional events range from spoken word to hip hop DJs.
An authentic Senegalese restaurant, which has made quite a name for itself (having been featured on the popular foodie TV show Check Please). But it remains a low-key, friendly hub for Chicago's Senegalese community. Don't miss the W,F dinner special: cow foot!
Burgers, chicken tenders, etc at the South Shore Cultural Center with fair prices, nice views of Lake Michigan, and a great excuse to come admire the SSCC.
A cool bar and a South Side steppers' lounge, where people dance like adults. Despite the name, this is about as far from being a sports bar as possible.
South Side gay bars are rare creatures. This is a very laid back and exceptionally welcoming bar/lounge frequented mostly by men and women in their 30s and 40s, dancing mostly to soul, house, and smooth jazz.
This airy, attractive, comfortable, stay-as-long-as-you-want cafe is impossible to miss, and you wouldn't want to. The fresh sandwiches, salads, and panini are all worth stopping in for. The free WiFi should keep you occupied while you sip.
A Mardi Gras styled bar/restaurant serving Cajun cuisine. There's blues on Wednesdays and stand-up comedy Tuesdays and Thursdays. F-Sa usually see live DJs and lots of dancing. The entertainment is in the back room past the front bar.
Offers a bed, dresser, TV, and private bathroom. Attached to Barbara Ann's BBQ, which serves excellent rib tips.
Rooms have a dresser, table, and television.
The friendliest looking option in the area, with standard rooms, also close to the Skyway.
Offers cable television and air conditioning.
African imports, aimed at home decor from jewelry and artwork to sofas.
Books by and about African-Americans. Prides itself on distributing new and controversial publications. Also sells recordings of speeches by African-American leaders, African clothing, and other odds and ends.
Offers paintings and contemporary furniture by African-American artists as well as Haitian art, all at quite reasonable prices.
By rail
Rail is not the best way to visit this section of the city, as you will need to take bus transfers wherever you want to go.
By bus
Bus, while certainly less convenient than driving, is the most widely used mode of transport throughout most of the district.
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