
Town in Derbyshire, England
Photo: Ashley Dace, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Chesterfield is a market town in Derbyshire in the English Midlands, with a population of 76,402 in 2021. It's best known for its "leaning spire", the twisted spire of St Mary's Church, but its chief attraction a few miles southeast is Hardwick Hall. It's also a good base for exploring the Peak District to the west.
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The Crooked Spire
You couldn't build it deliberately if you tried: the famous spire was added in 1362 but is only described as "leaning" from the 18th century. It's primarily a rotation of 45°, plus a lean that takes its tip 9½ feet off-centre. Probably this arose by a combination of green timber shrinking, extra roof weight, lack of cross-bracing, and rot: subsidence isn't a factor as the church below stands true. The church is Anglican and the interior is mostly Victorian. There are guided tours of the tower most days April-Dec.
This is Anglican, completed in 1838. Its notable feature is the grave of railway engineer George Stephenson (1781-1848), a plain slab within the sanctuary. He came to the Midlands to consult on a railway project, spotted land for sale with rich coal reserves, and snapped it up.
300 years ago this cottage was an alehouse, the Cock and Pynot - a pynot is a magpie. Three local bigwigs - the Earl of Devonshire (from nearby Chatsworth), the Earl of Danby and Mr John D'Arcy - here plotted to invite William and Mary of Orange to take the throne and replace the deeply unpopular King James II. This "Glorious Revolution" of 1688 succeeded and James was ousted, though he and his successors fought a sixty-year "Jacobite" campaign to try to regain the throne. The cottage is a small museum, temporarily closed in 2024 as part of budget cuts by the council.
A Roundhouse is a shed for parking steam locomotives, around a central turntable so they can be reversed or switched onto the railway. This one, which happens to be square, is the last functioning Roundhouse in Britain (though there are turntables elsewhere). There's a collection of heritage steam and diesel locos. The short spur of track is still connected to the main line.
This grand mansion was built in the 1590s as a "prodigy house": one fit to accommodate royalty as the court progressed around the country, and all for show not defence. Bess of Hardwick, Elizabeth Talbot nee Cavendish (1521-1608), multiplied her wealth with every marriage - she also owned Chatsworth. "Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall" was the saying, as it was fronted by great windows. It rears up as you approach from the west via a one-way lane. Highlights within are the Great Hall, the staircase, staterooms and a long gallery; these are light on furniture but adorned with tapestry and paintings. After Bess died it was only a secondary home for the Dukes of Devonshire, so it escaped modernisation and retained its Tudorbethan features. The family was plunged into crisis in 1950 when the 10th Duke died suddenly in the presence of Dr Bodkin Adams the serial murderer - the estate was hit by heavy death duties and the Hall had to be sold to the National Trust. Within the gardens is Old Hardwick Hall, left to fall derelict once the new hall was complete. Old and New Halls are often used as TV and film locations, for instance as Malfoy Manor in the Harry Potter films.
Part of the Hardwick Estate, this water mill was built in the 1840s and in use for a century. It was restored to working order in 1992.
"The Spireites" were promoted in 2024 and now play soccer in League Two, the fourth tier. Their home ground is SMH Group Stadium (aka Technique Stadium, capacity 10,500) on B6057 a mile north of the railway station.
A traditional Victorian hall on Corporation St opposite St Mary's Church.
Describes itself as East Med, but mostly standard burgers and grills.
Good Japanese menu, small portions but there's an all-you-can-eat buffet.
Modern English cuisine.
Cheerful authentic Greek taverna.
Relaxed dining in a charming old building.
Cafe within a tea & coffee shop with sandwiches, panini and cakes.
Trad British food, mixed reviews.
Great traditional pub with good grub and ales, and a huge selection of gin.
Buzzing pub with live music.
Value-for-money reliable Accor chain hotel.
Smart budget hotel, no on-site parking.
Friendly efficient hotel a mile north of centre.
Clean welcoming place a mile north of centre.
Simple but worth what you're paying.
Cosy chain hotel in a quiet spot.
Three glamping pods (sleep 4) each with a private hot tub. Open all year.
Pleasant spa hotel, built in the early 1900s by coal and iron tycoons.
The largest market in the area, in a hall and open square. Its charter of 1204 states that the market cannot be closed down unless nothing is bought there for a week - although King John signed quite a few documents that everyone ignored, such as Magna Carta.
Shopping centre with typical brand names. It's clean but hollow, with many empty units.
By road
From the south take M1 to junction 29 then A617. From the north, junction 30 onto A619 is shorter but this road drags through a series of villages, it's generally quicker to stay on M1 to junction 29.
By bus
National Express NX560 runs four times a day from London Victoria, taking 3 hr 30 min and continuing to Sheffield.
The town is compact and walkable, but you need wheels to explore the surroundings and get into the Peak District. Pronto Bus to Mansfield drops you two miles north of Hardwick Hall.
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