Town in County Mayo, Ireland
Photo: John D. Reigh, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Castlebar is the county town of County Mayo in the west of Ireland. It's an agreeable provincial place but has limited sights within town; places of interest lie some distance out and you'll need your own transport.
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Folklife Museum
This branch of the National Museum depicts arts and crafts of rural Ireland, mainly 1850-1950. It's in a modern building by the Victorian Gothic Turlough House.
Davitt (1846-1906) was born here but when he was four the family were evicted for rent arrears. They moved to Lancashire, where he worked in a cotton mill but lost his right arm in the machinery. Thus radicalised, he went on to join the Irish Republican Brotherhood, campaigning with Parnell on land reform and Home Rule, and serving two spells in prison. The museum is in an old church used before the Penal Laws outlawed Catholic masses.
Abbey built in 1216, wrecked at the Reformation but re-built from the 1960s. It's still in use for services, weddings, retreats and so on. A 35-km pilgrimage route Tóchar Phádraig winds from here to the summit of Croagh Patrick near Westport.
Old-style pub, family-friendly, does decent bar food and may have rooms. But McHale's place in lore is that it's nowadays the only pub in the known universe to still serve Guinness by the meejum, an obscure measure short of a pint. The term means "medium" and was first documented in southwest Ireland circa 1890. It appeared in those days to indicate a drink sold by price not volume — a pennyworth, say — so its volume varied by pub and content. It was probably a widespread custom but only officially noticed after the 1878 Weights and Measures Act, which standardised volumes and required officially-calibrated beer glasses. Court actions arose from customers reckoning themselves short-changed, or from police or trading inspectors, and publicans using glasses marked as "medium" also fell foul of the law. The practice died out in the 20th century, although the term "medium" was used for servings in other ways. So raise a glass in McHale's, containing a volume which remains undefined but is somewhat less than the SI-derived unit pint of 568.261 ml. It's a quantum uncertainty thing, if you could state its exact volume then you couldn't state how quickly you drank it or who's round it is.
Clean friendly place near town centre.
Smart friendly guesthouse.
Neat guesthouse by the hospital.
Comfy hotel convenient for hospital and town centre with its own theatre.
Slick modern hotel.
Charming welcoming guesthouse along the lake shore.
By train
Trains from Dublin Heuston take 3 hours to Castlebar. On the morning and evening services (heading for Galway) you change at Athlone.
By bus
There is no direct bus from Dublin: you need to travel via Athlone or Galway, a weary trek by either route.
By road
Driving from Dublin take M4 / N4 to Longford then N5 all the way to Castlebar, and reckon 3 hours.
Castlebar itself is easy to walk around, but most sights are several km out in the country with scant public transport, so you need wheels.
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