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Island in the Sound of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland
Photo: (WT-en) Jkirriemuir at English Wikivoyage, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Berneray is an island in the Outer Hebrides or Western Isles of Scotland. It's about three miles north-south by two miles east-west, mostly low-lying, and is joined to the larger island of North Uist by road. In 2011 the population was 138.
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The church is a plain 19th-century building above Backhill the main settlement. It's Presbyterian (Church of Scotland) but all are welcome at services, held at noon on the 1st, 3rd and 5th Sunday of each month, with the 2nd and 4th Sunday services in Lochmaddy. These are mostly in English, with one psalm in Gaelic. Psalms are sung in the Hebridean style with no music.
A drystone plinth marks the birthplace of Angus MacAskill (1825–1863), the world's largest "true" giant. You can still discern the outline of the lost village of Sheabie - his family moved to Stornoway, and Sheabie was abandoned during the Clearances of the 1850s. Macaskill was six, and still a normal size, when they emigrated to Englishtown on Cape Breton Island (in Nova Scotia, Canada). There in adolescence he grew and grew and grew to 7 ft 9 in (2.36 m). His family were of unremarkable size, and he was a "true" giant with no hormonal or other metabolic syndrome, and of normal proportions. He was prodigiously strong and joined Barnum's circus as a performing strongman, then returned to Englishtown to own a mill and general store. At age 38, he died of a "brain fever". There's a museum about him near Englishtown and another at Dunvegan on Skye. Several places in Scotland are called "Giant's Grave" and are prehistoric burial chambers, but this fellow was real.
Serves sandwiches, soups, wraps and cakes during the day, and 3-course dinners in the evening. Often busy, booking recommended for evening meals, they do takeaway. Friday evenings are fish & chips and Saturday evenings are pizza.
Perched on the northeast coast with gorgeous views, the hostel is in two thatched white-harled "black houses". Open all year, it has a 6-, 7- and 8-bed dorm, no private rooms, assistance dogs only. It's run by the Gatliff Trust, who also run Howmore hostel on South Uist and Rhenigidale on Harris. Like the others it has no phone and no booking, you turn up and take your chance. No camping hereabouts or parking campervans.
Clean friendly bunkhouse in a refurbished blackhouse, though with a modern roof not traditional "netted" thatch. No pets.
A well-named guest-house, as seals cavort on the shore in front. Open all year, it has a double room and a family room sleeping four, both en suite. Children and pets welcome.
Rebuilt thatched blackhouse next to the sea, sleeps 3, booking Friday to Friday.
Small cottage in a former blacksmith's workshop, sleeps 2, booking Saturday-to-Saturday. Well equipped with kitchen, jacuzzi, Wi-Fi and TV.
Stocks a large selection of packaged food and fresh local produce, plus alcohol, maps, books, outdoor clothing and hardware. See below for the bistro. The place has been painted white since the photo, but that doesn't mean the former black version housed cattle.
A small gift shop in a harbourside wooden cabin, well-stocked with local wares.
This offers the standard postal services.
A Royal Bank of Scotland van visits the island on Tuesday at noon as part of a circuit of the Uists. Its days are probably numbered: Bank of Scotland have already withdrawn, and the big banks are under the impression that if islanders want a mobile banking service, all they need do is download an app.
By boat
Berneray ferry pier is the landing point for Calmac ferries from Leverburgh on Harris, taking an hour. Apr-Oct there are 4 M-Sa and 3 Su, Nov-March 2 or 3 a day, see Leverburgh#Get in for fares.
By road
The causeway from North Uist (B893) is passable at all tides and in all but the worst Atlantic weather.
Walking will get you everywhere on this compact island. A single-track paved lane follows the east coast, with another through the centre and a third across the southside machair.
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Balivanich · Regional · BEB
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