Angkorian urban centre in Banteay Meanchey, Cambodia
Photo: Andrew Marino - User: (WT-shared) Andrewjmarino at wts wikivoyage, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Banteay Chhmar Temple is in northwestern Cambodia. The temple complex is from the Angkorian era, just like Cambodia's top attraction, but more remote, less famous and therefore without the tourist crowds. The name also refers to the adjacent village of Khum Banteay Chhmar, where the services can be found.
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One of Cambodia’s most important and least understood temples from the great Angkorian era. The temple is similar in style to Bayon Temple and may have originally had over 50 towers within its main enclosure. There are some stunning bas-reliefs of Khmer domestic and military life from the Angkorian era. By far, the most important and spectacular bas-reliefs are the two remaining images of the Avalokitesvara on the west gallery. The temple has suffered hundreds of years of natural decay, and in the late 20th century, was subjected to egregious acts of looting. What remains is still truly spectacular – a remote, deserted temple overgrown with trees and forest. You will experience a sense of mystical aura and have some awesome photographic opportunities. With fewer than 1,000 visitors a year, you will also most likely have the temple to yourself.
Ta Prohm has an excellent 4-sided, Bayon-syle face tower.
This rather large satellite temple also bears Bayon-style face towers and is covered in vines and jungle
Meborn Baray is a large reservoir constructed during the building of Banteay Chhmar Temple. It served as the primary water supply for the inhabitants of the time. The area now is protected from development and is home to a variety of birds. The baray stretches nearly 1,000 m x 1,500 m. There is a temple on the island in the middle of the baray which can be reached during the dry season. Meborn Baray is 600 m from the CBT office and can be reached by walking or biking.
Boeung Cheung Kru
This baray was constructed during the brutal Pol Pot regime under, as you can imagine, horrific conditions. Today, the baray is an important water source for the villagers in the area. The baray is about 3 km north of Banteay Chhmar and is best visited by moto, though biking may be possible during the dry season. It can be difficult to reach in the rainy season.
The CBT has English-speaking tour guides available. They can give you a temple tour and will also help you with your homestay arrangements and transportation needs (and anything else you may need help with). US$5 per group of 5.
A group of local musicians playing traditional songs and instruments. This is often performed in the temple at night during dinner (weather permitting).
A traditional way of rice preparation for special occasions. You can help prepare the rice and enjoy tasting it afterwards.
Take a 1-hour tour around Banteay Chhmar village stopping at various sites and learning about local Khmer life.
Kuyons can be hired to take visitors to the barays, or to Banteay Torp Temple for sightseeing and picnics.
The CBT does not rent motorbikes to visitors. You can ride around Banteay Chhmar with a CBT member.
This is a must-see on your trip to Banteay Chhmar. High-quality silk products, some of which are sold in Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, and France. The silk centre has been training young women in the art of silk weaving since 2001. You can receive a tour of the silk-making process, try some weaving yourself and buy some beautiful. You can also visit the affiliated Enfants du Mekong School nearby.
This is your best option. The CBT has a kitchen and restaurant area where meals can be served. The CBT cooks have been trained in food safety and hygiene. Picnics and dinner in the temple can also be arranged through the CBT. There is an extra supplement for picnics and dinner in the temple depending upon group size, location and transportation needed.
In the market area, this is the restaurant under the big tree across from the moat and taxi stand. There is no menu. Basic Khmer food (look in the pots) and generally clean.
There are various market stalls and sellers selling bobor (rice soup), cane juice, grilled corn, desserts, and other Khmer delicacies (crickets, anyone?). Not necessarily the most hygienic choice, but worth trying, if you are on a very tight budget.
These are the only sleeping accommodations in Banteay Chhmar. There are 8 homestays and 19 rooms. Each room has 1 double bed. The homestays are clean and basic with cotton sheets, blankets, pillows and mosquito nets. 6 homestays have Western-style toilets and shower heads. There are no rooms with air conditioning. There is electricity only from 18:00-23:00 in Banteay Chhmar. The homestays all have electricity during this time, or use batteries. Flashlights and candles are provided, as well. You will need a CBT member to help you with settling into your homestay since none of the homestay owners speak English and homestay reservations are done on a revolving basis so each homestay owner receives his or her fair share of guests. As of 2025 there are also two guesthouses with a total of 12 rooms, and a possibility to stay overnight at a tent in the temple compound which includes lunch, dinner, breakfast and a tour. All of these are booked through the CBT.
By taxi
From Sisophon, taxis are the only practical way to reach Banteay Chhmar. You can find taxis at Psaar Thmei (New Market) on Highway 56, the road leading to Banteay Chhmar.
Other transportation
Banteay Chhmar village, the main temple and the homestays are all close and can be easily covered on foot.50/day). There are two barays (large water reservoirs). The Mebon Baray can be walked or biked to.
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