Former Thai capital city
Photo: Jpatokal, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Thonburi (Thai: ธนบุรี) is a vast district that consists of the entire west bank of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok. After the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767, General Phraya Taksin made Thonburi the new capital of Siam for a brief period of time. It is hard to believe this was once the country's capital, as the district is devoid of the grand structures seen in other former capitals. In fact, Thonburi stayed relatively isolated from Bangkok proper, and for centuries was an agricultural land filled with canals and fruit orchards. While Thonburi has quickly developed in recent decades, most visitors still come here for the cool and peaceful atmosphere. The traditional Thai way of life on the canals still exists here, as do the floating vendors and orchard farms.
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วัดซางตาครู้ส
The Santa Cruz Church is an interesting Catholic church right at the banks of the Chao Phraya River. After the fall of Ayutthaya by a Burmese invasion, King Taksin commanded that the peoples who escaped had to settle down in Thonburi, the new capital of Siam. The King dictated that the Chinese group had to settle down around the area of Wat Kalayanamit, while the Portuguese people would have their houses built along the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The Portuguese had given military support to King Taksin to help him drive out the Burmese from Siam. In recognition of their support, King Taksin granted the Portuguese a plot of land for the building of a church. The first Santa Cruz Church was a wooden church built in 1770. When that church got into a state of decay, a new Chinese-style church was built here, as it was nearby the Chinese community that stayed at Wat Kalayanamit. That church was called "Kudichin church" (Chinese church), and the Portuguese who settled here were called "Farang Kudichin", which means "Westerners at the Chinese shrine". In 1916, the third and current Santa Cruz Church was built during the reign of King Rama IV. The church has a magnificent Italian-style architecture. The community around it still feels authentic, and is the birthplace of a famous kind of cupcake, the "Khanom Farang Kudichin".
วัดกัลยาณมิตรวรมหาวิหาร
Situated on the mouth of Bangkok Yai canal at the west bank of the Chao Phraya, this massive temple is popular among the Thai-Chinese community. It was founded in 1825 by a Chinese nobleman who donated his own residence and bought a piece of land to build a temple. This was during the reign of King Rama III, when trade with China was flourishing. The viharn is in a typical Thai style, but the two flanking buildings look Chinese. Inside the viharn is a large Buddha image named Phraputtatrirattananayok, which is 15.44 metres tall and 11.75 metres wide. It is so large that it almost entirely filled the interior of the hall. The image is called Sampokong by worshippers of Thai-Chinese descent. The inner courtyard is decorated with statues and gates imported from China. Every day during the Chinese New Year festival, this temple is crowded with thousands of Thai-Chinese visitors.
วัดประยุรวงศ์
This temple is close to the banks of the Chao Phraya River. The first thing you see is its large white chedi in Ayutthayan style; it is the only chedi of this style in Bangkok. King Rama II tried to create a similar chedi at the Golden Mount, but the ground could not support it and it collapsed. If you want a nice nightly picture of the chedi, walk on the Memorial Bridge at dusk when it is beautifully illuminated. However, most visitors come for the Khao Mor Cemetery, a large mound at the entrance of the temple. The mound is covered with many different shrines, chedis, spirit houses and even a doll house. There's a lot to take in, but it's certainly a fun walk. The shallow pool has some turtles swimming around, which you can feed with food bought from the stalls outside. Another attraction is the small two-room museum with Khon masks, papier-mache pigs and other cultural objects.
วัดระฆังโฆสิตารามวรมหาวิหาร
This temple was built during the Ayutthaya Period, later it was reconstructed and upgraded as a royal temple by King Taksin. The temple was named the "Temple of the Bells" due to the discovery of a huge bell at this temple in the reign of King Rama I. This significant temple was the residence of many supreme patriarchs of the Rattankosin Period, including Somdej Toah, a highly respected monk in the reign of King Rama V. Things of note are the beautiful mural paintings in the ordination hall, the image hall and the bell tower. Outside is a row of bells lined up. It is believed that ringing all of them in a row will bring good luck. The front of the building is right at the banks of the Chao Phraya River, and it is beautifully lit at nighttime.
วัดสุวรรณาราม
This is a big royal temple on the banks of the Bangkok Noi Canal. It was built during the reign of King Rama I and renovated during the reign of King Rama III. Inside are exceptional murals depicting the Jutaku, deities and the Buddha in subduing Mara posture. These works of art of the early Rattanakosin Period (early 19th century) are considered some of the best surviving mural paintings in Bangkok. One particularly interesting mural is a Dutch person holding a telescope. At that time, the Dutch were associated with modern inventions that were very popular in Siam.
พิพิธภัณฑ์เขตบางกอกน้อย
This museum is about the history of Bangkok Noi and of the village of "Bangkok" that used to be located here. Bangkok Noi was an important trading centre in the Ayutthaya Period, and briefly the capital of Siam in the Thonburi Period. The Rattanakosin Period has also been covered, when most of Bangkok Noi consisted of fruit orchards. Many people worked as craftsmen, including those making bronze bowls. These fruits and bowls are on display in the museum. Over time, Thonburi became more urbanised, but here you can still see what it used to be like.
บ้านพิพิธภัณฑ์
The exhibition features a collection of old and modern items that were used every day by both townspeople and villagers. Items such as toys, books, stationery and kitchen and household utensils throughout the years are on display, forming a legacy of the past to be inherited by the present. The modern 3½-storey building of 3 chambers covers an area of 232 m². The first floor shows an old atmosphere of shop houses that date from before 1957, including a cafe, pharmacy, barber shop, and others. There are also rooms with changing exhibitions and various topics.
ศูนย์มานุษยวิทยาสิรินธร
This centre gathers anthropological data scattered throughout the country and brings the information together. More interesting for visitors are the variety of exhibitions taking place here, such as on social and cultural development in Thailand, ethno-archaeology and Thai ceramic collections. Also the biography of Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn can be viewed.
พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติเรือพระราชพิธี
On the mouth of the Bangkok Noi canal, this museum displays several Royal Barges used for state ceremonies on the Chao Phraya River. The ornately carved barges take the form of famous mythical creatures from the Ramayana epic. The most impressive is the Suphannahongse (or Golden Swan), which was built in 1911 during the reign of King Rama IV. This 46-metre craft was carved from a single piece of teakwood. The bow resembles a mythical swan and is adorned with gold lacquer and glass jewels. Most visit this museum as part of a canal tour, but it can also be visited on foot.
These museums are old and dusty with many of them missing English signs. Most of the visitors are Thai students, who have to visit them for their studies, but some foreigners like to see them as well. The Forensic Medicine Museum is the most popular one for its collection of medical oddities similar to the Mütter Museum in Philadelphia. There are many other museums inside the complex, including the Congdon Anatomical Museum, Sood Sangvichien Prehistoric Museum, Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medicine Museum, Parasitology Museum, Ellis Pathological Museum and the Veekit Veeranuvati Museum on traditional Thai medicine. While much of the collection is not for individuals with a weak stomach or a faint heart, there's a lot to learn or at least be emotionally affected by.
พิพิธภัณฑ์สุนทร
This is a private museum operated by Mr Sunthorn Chunothaisawat. It houses antiques such as BMW Motorcycles from the interwar period, clocks, lamps, children toys made out of zinc, radios, irons, typewriters, fans and sewing machines. All are well-maintained and in a good condition.
พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระเจ้าตากสินมหาราช
This is an equestrian statue situated at the Wongwian Yai Circle near the railway station of the same name. The king is portrayed with his right hand holding a sword, measuring approximately 9 metres in height from his horse's feet to the spire of his hat. The statue rests on a reinforced concrete pedestal of about 9 by 2 metres with 3.90 metres in height. There are four frames of stucco relief on the two sides of the pedestal. The opening ceremony of this monument was held on April 17, 1954 and a homage-paying fair takes place annually at December 28.
อุทยานเฉลิมพระเกียรติสมเด็จพระศรีนครินทราบรมราชชนนี
This beautiful park is built near the Wat Anongkharam community where Somdej Phra Srinagarindra Boromarajajonani, HRH the Princess Mother (the mother of King Rama IX) had resided during her childhood. The park comprises a full scale model of the Princess Mother's house. The old buildings were renovated as exhibition halls, displaying the life story of HRH the Princess Mother and the history of the Wat Anongkharam community that lives here.
Operating from Tha Chang pier, there offers plenty of tours on offer. All of them include Wat Arun, the Royal Barge National Museum and a floating market. At weekdays it will pass by the "Thonburi Floating Market", which is set-up for tourists and not worth it. Better take the tour at weekends, when it goes by the Taling Chan Floating Market (which is also not authentic, but at least feels more genuine and is a lot more lively). The one-hour tour goes through the Bangkok Noi and Mon canals for 800 baht. The 90-minute tour also takes in the Bangkok Yai canal for 1,000 baht. The complete tour takes two hours, costs 1,200 baht, and goes deeper into Thonburi, where you'll visit an orchid farm.
This company offers whole-day tours, which are slightly different whether you're taking them on weekdays or weekends. The weekday tour starts at the Wat Sai Morning Market and then takes you to an exotic orchid nursery, the Wat Pa Chang Lane or the "Jungle Temple", then onto a traditional wooden house of a local miniature boat making family and the "Artists' House" for a traditional Thai puppet show. The weekend tour takes you to the Artists House first and then brings you to the Lat Mayom Floating Market. The weekend tour is recommended as the Lat Mayom Floating Market is more authentic and more fun than the Wat Sai market. These tours use a Thai traditional teak boat, and life-vests are offered. Unlike other tours, you can ask the staff to stop anywhere along the canals. Call ahead for inquiries (ask for Tom, the Thai-American owner).
Operating from Si Phraya pier, they offer a one-hour tour for 800 baht and a two-hour for 1,500 baht. The one-hour tour is a quick tour of the Chao Phraya River. At the two-hour tour, you will either visit the Wat Sai Floating Market (if arriving around 08:00 on weekdays) or go up north to Wat Arun and the Royal Barge National Museum (at any other time).
Chao Phraya River cruise . They offer Private/shared cruises, two staterooms with private en-suite bathrooms. Departs on Mondays and Thursdays.
เมเจอร์ ปิ่นเกล้า
A large and luxurious cinema, and compared to Western standards, an absolute bargain to watch a film here. All the newest Hollywood releases are on show, as are Thai films (most of which are subtitled in English). If you have to wait about one or two hours before the film starts, you can do some shopping or have some food in the attached shopping mall.
This is a typical street restaurant that is good for trying some Southern Thai cooking. You might want to consider the gaeng som, a sour and thick vegetable soup. Diagonally across is Dao Tai, another Southern Thai restaurant. Both restaurants only have Thai signs and menus.
สุภัทรา ริเวอร์ เฮ้าส์
This luxurious restaurant is in the traditional Thai residence of Khunying Supatra Singholaga, a successful businesswoman who started the express boat service in Bangkok and a leading figure in women's rights. There is a small museum dedicated to her art collection inside the building. On the menu are Thai and seafood dishes, so you might want to try the fried river prawn with tamarind sauce. There is a great view of the Chao Phraya River, especially at night when the Grand Palace is beautifully lit. Thai dance shows are given on Saturday nights at 20:30. Make a reservation beforehand.
ร้านอาหาร ยกยอ มารีน่า
You can sit at the open air terrace along the Chao Phraya River or inside with air-conditioning and live music. On the menu is seafood, including oysters, fish and shellfish. Most of the visitors are local Thais, at it is at the Thonburi bank, but more and more foreigners seem to get to know it. The only downside is the karaoke machine and loud TV, sometimes used by locals ruining the atmosphere.
สุ่ม4สุ่ม5
This cheap restaurant is strongly recommended for its cheap prices and great view over the Chao Phraya River. When it is dark, Bangkok's highlights along the river are well-lit, such as the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Wat Kalayanamit. Ordering goes by "self-service", which means you must walk to the counter yourself and order what you want to have. This is fairly straightforward as the menu is in English. You have to pick up the glasses from a shelve and fill them up with ice cubes (if desired). Some good dishes are the fried rice with maggi sauce or the fried rice with Thai chili paste and fried chicken. If you have a big appetite, also order the fried minced shrimp cakes.
Cute restaurant on the second level of the ferry building with a large patio overlooking the river, perfect to watch sunsets. Reasonably priced, very good fusion food, with vegan options. Craft beer available.
Sooksiam pulls off the unlikely trick of recreating a traditional Thai floating market inside a shopping mall, with amazing, over-the-top decor and 3000 (!) stalls serving up authentic renditions of food from around the country, with everything from murderously spicy southern-style curries to sticky rice and papaya salad from Isaan. A great way to experience Thai street food, only with hygiene, air-conditioning, and walkways.
ตลิ่งบาร์
This is a simple chill-out bar and restaurant with views of the Chao Phraya River. At night, the Grand Palace is beautifully lit. It has been rebuilt with a much larger surface area. You can have a beer, cocktail or a dinner at this place before heading for Khao San Road. Apart from a great view, it is a good way to get a taste of Thonburi's local nightlife. Free fried peanuts are offered, and live music starts at 20:30 every night. You can also have dinner in the evening.
A lounge bar that offers spectacular 360 degrees views of the city and the Chao Phraya River. Usually there is a live jazz band playing. Cocktails cost 250 baht, which is a bit cheaper than in upscale venues in similar areas. Smoking is permitted in dedicated areas.
Private rooms with a/c, TV and Wi-Fi. Breakfast included.
Hostel with a/c rooms with shared bathrooms and free Wi-Fi about 200 m from BTS station.
This two-star hotel has 262 "superior" and "deluxe" rooms. Rooms are fully equipped with modern facilities and some include a room-service breakfast. Many of the rooms have a nice view over the Chao Phraya River.
This is a decent hotel near Central Plaza Pinklao. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and clean, but also quite old, dark and uninspiring. Facilities are plentiful, including a pool, fitness and massage. The staff are really nice and helpful. There is not that much to do in the area, except for the nearby 7-Eleven.
This is a good hotel near the Krung Thon Bridge. Rooms are large, comfortable and clean. The deluxe rooms of this hotel have a big balcony with a nice view over the river. It is relaxed to splash into the pool after a hot day of temple tramping.
This boutique hotel offers spacious and clean rooms in a cozy environment. It has lots of services available, including a swimming pool, tennis courts, a restaurant, a pool table, karaoke room and a fitness room.
This former Marriott is one of the best hotels in Bangkok. Its off-central location is a bit of a downer, but it does bring a relaxed ambiance that makes it feel like a resort hotel. Also, there are shuttle boats to BTS Saphan Taksin station, so you still get to the city centre relatively quickly. Rooms are magnificent, there's a tranquil pool and a good breakfast.
Breathtaking views and an infinity pool.
A luxury hotel at the Chao Phraya river, offering a working desk, living room, high-speed internet, two LCD televisions, jacuzzi, rain shower and pool. There's a shuttle boat to River City pier and BTS Saphan Taksin station.
Just across the river from the Oriental hotel, this is a worthy competitor for being one of the world's best hotels. Prices are a little cheaper than the Oriental, but still usually above 13,000 baht. Features 3 restaurants, 2 bars, a spa, an outdoor pool. There's a free shuttle service to BTS Saphan Taksin station and River City pier.
ตลาดน้ำคลองลัดมะยม
This is a major attraction, with a pleasant and shaded atmosphere. The floating market corresponds to both sides of the Lat Mayom canal on Bang Ramat Road. This floating market dates from 2004, and is not frequently visited by boats. However, it does have many shop stalls, a small boat museum, several walking paths around the market, small toilet, a few outdoor restaurants and a variety of foods and merchandise for sale. Occasionally, it does feature live outdoor performances by local children or organisations. It is only open on weekends and easily accessible (and used as a prolonged stopover) on some tourist tour boats from Taling Chan Floating Market.
ตลาดน้ำตลิ่งชัน
This major attraction along Chak Phra canal is held every weekend. It is more convenient than taking a canal trip to Wat Sai and also feels more authentic and fun. It blends a rural market with the canal side way of life. The vendors, who are local farmers, take their products including plants, vegetables, fruits, fish and various kinds of food to this market. There are also floating food shops and a private-run canal tour service for visitors who enjoy the district's canal side way of life. It is accessible by car and bus, not too far from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal.
ตลาดน้ำวัดไทร
This floating market along Sanam Chai Canal used to be a popular tourist site for visitors to admire the traditional canal side way of life. Unfortunately, construction of new roads within the area left the floating market abandoned in 1977. It has been revived, though it does not feel as authentic as it used to. It is still interesting to book a canal tour along this historic waterway, and enjoy the floating market that is crowded with boats that have farm produced products for sale.
A local outdoor marketplace filled with food, refreshments, clothing, souvenirs and miscellaneous items by various independent local vendors. The market has a variety of clothes for sale, including new, used, Western and Eastern style clothes. Also for sale are CDs/DVDs/VCDs, children's toys, phone accessories, purses, weapons (handguns, hunting knives, ammunition), toiletries, ceremonial gifts, souvenirs and other small accessories. Children can go to the large inflatable playpen. It is popular and well-known by locals, but barely-known or visited by tourists. It is best to visit the market in the middle of the afternoon when it is most lively.
Another local outdoor marketplace, similar to the one in Bang Ramat, but slightly larger, busier and more crowded.
ท่าเรือคลองสาน
Located in a soi off Charoen Nakhon Road, the area offers items like ready-to-wear clothes for teenagers and shoes at relatively low prices. Best visited from lunch to dinner.
ตลาดรถไฟธนบุรี
This mostly fresh market spans 350 m following the tracks at the railway station. It opens before sunrise and many fresh items are sold out by noon although the stalls selling other goods remain open. Worth checking out also for food if you arrive early for your train from Thonburi station.
ตลาดวังหลัง
Wang Lang is a small street filled with shops and carts. It is often called the Ladies Market, because the many stores cater to women's clothes, shoes, bags and accessories. It becomes very crowded around 12:00, when the locals come in to have lunch. At that time it might be difficult to find your way around. Wednesdays is the best day to go, as the new second-hand products arrive that day, but the market is busy every day of the week.
เซ็นทรัลพลาซา - ปิ่นเกล้า
The largest shopping mall and office tower complex of Thonburi, it includes six floors (with a basement floor) with stores, stalls, restaurants, banks and a karaoke lounge. The Central Department Store is inside and takes up many floors. The other usual chain stores are present as well, as are stores selling books, electronics and clothes. The easiest way to get there is by taxi, but there are also buses and songthaews available.
เดอะมอลล์ บางแค
A large shopping mall complex that has many floors of stores, stalls, restaurants and a cinema. It is located down the street from Kasemrad Hospital.
เดอะมอลล์ท่าพระ
The easiest The Mall shopping mall to reach with Skytrain. Six floors with shops, a supermarket, outlets of all mobile operators, restaurants and a cinema.
By far Thonburi's largest and glitziest shopping mall, parked on a prime riverside location with Vegas-style fountain light shows at night. Divided into themed zones: Takashimaya brings the Japanese department store to Bangkok, Iconluxe caters to all your branded shopping needs, while the Sooksiam indoor floating market is a destination in itself, offering a vast array of street food (see #Eat) as well as handicrafts and more from all around the country.
By boat
The easiest way to get into Thonburi is by boat.
By train
The easiest way to reach Thonburi from Siam Square, Sukhumvit or Silom is to hop on the Skytrain Silom line, which crosses the river at Saphan Taksin (for connections to the Chao Phraya Express Boat)…
By bus
Getting into Thonburi by bus is very complicated, so only use city buses as a last resort. Bus travel is necessary to reach some destinations though, such as the Taling Chan Floating Market.
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