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Road in Thailand
Photo: edwin11_79, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Phahonyothin (Thai: พหลโยธิน) is centred around Phahonyothin Road, a major arterial road that starts at Victory Monument and runs parallel to and eventually merges with Viphavadi Rangsit Road in the north of Bangkok. Also spelled Phaholyothin, Pahol Yothin, and many other variations, it stretches northward all the way past the old Don Mueang Airport towards Rangsit, Ayutthaya, and (if you drive long enough) Chiang Rai. There are few sights that are actually worth it to come all the way up here for, but most tourists make a beeline for the Chatuchak Weekend Market.
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The Elephant Building is one of the quirkiest buildings of the world, and has even won awards for being one of the ugliest. This 32-floor high-rise is composed of three towers that are connected to each other on the upper floors. The shape clearly resembles a grey elephant, Thailand's national animal. It even has eyes, ears and tusks, so nothing is left to the imagination. The building is used for residential and commercial purposes, with a bank, a post office, an EFL school and various shops on the first couple of floors.
อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ
This insect garden is split in four main sections. The first section is an area with touch-screen computers that give an introduction to the garden. The second is a mini-theatre where a presentation is given on insects and the ecological system they are a part of. The third section is an exhibition room that shows the breeding of insects and butterfly embryos. And finally, the last section is a large cage that displays more than 500 butterflies of 20 different kinds. The garden simulates the insects' natural habitat with rocks, shady ferns, wild flowers and a waterfall.
พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็ก
Discovery and interactive museums are the new hype in Bangkok, and this Children's Museum is no exception. The construction was completed in 2001 and completed in time to celebrate the 60th birthday anniversary of HM Queen Sirikit. It is a large complex with eight galleries with 123 exhibits and activities, spread over three buildings and one outdoor space. The goal is to learn children in a fun way about human life, science, culture, society, nature and the environment, and there is an exhibition in honor of HM Queen Sirikit. While mostly catering to Thai families, foreigners can bring their children as well.
พิพิฒภัณฑ์ศิลปะไทยร่วมสมัย
Five floors house a collection of hundreds of pieces of painting and sculpture illustrating the development of Thai art since Western art concepts were introduced. There are also special collections on European Victorian era painters as well as Chinese and Japanese artwork.
พิพิธภัณฑ์และห้องสมุดตราไปรษณียากร
This museum displays the history of the Thai postal service and the development of Thai stamps throughout history. The first Thai stamps were issued during the reign of King Rama V in the late nineteenth-century. Also on display are stamps from other countries that are a member of the Universal Postal Union. There is a library with books about stamps, and you can buy stamps at the ground floor of the building. Next to the museum is a room that looks and acts like a post office of the past. In front of the building you'll find Thai and foreign postal boxes from various periods.
พิพิธภัณฑ์กองทัพอากาศ
An oddball collection of planes and helicopters ranging from WW1 era biplanes to a JAS Gripen jet fighter with some being the last of their kind. You can get inside some exhibits. English signage has improved over the years and now narrates also RTAF history. There is a gift shop and a canteen serving very cheap Thai food.
หอเกียรติภูมิรถไฟ
This is a privately-run railway museum with steam engines, train models and miniature trains on display that show the history of Thai railways since the late nineteenth-century. The museum has been established by Sanpasiri Viryasiri in 1990, and is now managed by his son, Chulsiri Viryasiri. He runs it with full dedication and on purpose the whole project is solely paid for with donations. The future of the museum hangs in the balance, as the State Railway of Thailand is trying to reclaim the land in order to turn it into a public dog park.
สวนจตุจักร
Chatuchak Park is one of the older public parks in Bangkok, located on land that was donated by the State Railway of Thailand in 1975. The construction of the park took five years and was completed in 1980. The park basically is a long strip of green land right beside Phahonyothin Road. It is surrounded by an artificial lake that runs along the park with many bridges crossing it. There are nine pieces of ASEAN sculptures that enhance the character of the park.
สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์
This park was built to commemorate the 60th birthday anniversary of HM Queen Sirikit in 1992. A big pool in the park contains three fountains and a fine collection of both Thai and foreign lotuses.
สวนวชิรเบญจทัศ
This large park used to be the golf course of the State Railway of Thailand. Bicycle rental, paid parking and eating possibilities are outside the northern entrance of the park. It has a large kids playgrounds in the middle, as well as a kids pool and sports facilities.
Another branch of the Major Cineplex line of cinemas. The ticket office is on the second floor, the movies play at the fifth and sixth floors. It is a large cinema with all the new Hollywood releases. Thai movies are also showed and are subtitled in English.
ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเนื้อรสเด็ด ซอยราชครู
Two neighbouring, simple and locally very popular eateries. They have dedicated lunch customers seven days a week. Mains just under 50 baht, they have very simple but delicious menus, but only in Thai. Pointing will do.
ผัดไทย อารีย์
This small, unassuming shophouse is owned by a friend of the royal family (note the picture of the princess on the wall), and serves up some delectable pad Thai (and many variations) at slightly more than street stall prices.
Pathe is the Thai equivalent of a 1950s-era American-style diner. The atmosphere is great with a classic record player providing the music. There are pictures on the wall of music stars and performers of the 1950-70s. Serves up some tasty food as well.
ร้านข้าวหมูแดง-หมูกรอบธานี
A no-frills eatery serving the classic Thai-Chinese dish Khao Moo Daeng, with some of the crispiest pork belly in Bangkok. A popular lunch spot for the local office workers, but does not see many tourists, so don't expect any English from the staff. That being said, their menu has pictures you can point to so staff know what you want.
บ้านพึงชม
In a big garden with some rabbits, it is possible to eat inside (with air-conditioning) or outside. It is often full, so if you don't make a reservation, you'll probably be eating outdoors. The surroundings couldn't be better, the food is fine, and prices are decent.
Formerly Arancini
The third branch of this Italian food franchise. It has especially enticing pizzas and a good selection of decently priced wines (glass and bottle) to help you get rid of that leftover Chang taste from the afternoon. Try the Rianata.
เหลา เหลา
Chinese-style seafood restaurant that is always bustling well into the wee hours of night. Not much on atmosphere or service, but the crowds can attest that the food is terrific and the price is right. English menus are available, but as it is a very local restaurant, it may be helpful to go with a Thai friend.
ร้านอาหารปลาดิบ
Surprisingly chic setting and menu, drawing in a constant crowd of Bangkok hipsters and "Indie" music fanatics, this restaurant cum bar features live bands on weekends. It is a happening bar with a creative menu focusing on fresh fish prepared in some creative fusion styles. A bit more of a splurge for this neighbourhood, with dishes running far into the triple digits.
สวนกุหลาบ
An Ari neighbourhood institution, hugely popular with both neighbourhood locals and downtown dwellers in the know. Features a surprisingly vast menu of Thai and Chinese dishes, priced at approximately 80-150 baht per dish (though seafood is remarkably more expensive). The staff is not always efficient, and speaks little English, but the menu is translated and has pictures.
This is a nice Vietnamese restaurant. It shares an inside courtyard with Dragon Palace, the Chinese mid-range restaurant next-door. There are parking facilities, it is clean and has a good service. Try the Saigon crab soup.
Aree Babar
This is a simple bar that caters to those living in the area. It is a bit quirky with eclectic music and drinks. The sign actually says "Aaari babar".
Lesla is a growing community of lesbians in Bangkok that organises events to meet each other. Every Saturday night, a weekly get-together is held in the Chit Chat Club in the Lat Phrao neighbourhood.
Rong Beer Yereman, German Beer Hall
This is the second branch of this popular German microbrewery (the first branch is at Rama III Road near Silom). It is mostly popular among upper middle-class Thais. There's good food at reasonable prices, and a good stage show with many acts and fun music. It is a stretch to find it, as it is far off from Phahonyothin Road, but the trip is worth it. Most taxis will know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (German Beer Hall) and they should understand. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends.
This "hostel" is not really a hostel, more like a three-star hotel. It is unbelievably hard to find as it is deep in the sois of Lat Phrao, and about 16km from Victory Monument! So budget in some money for long taxi rides. The English skills of the staff are not that good, but no wonder, as this is far off in a quiet residential neighbourhood. At least they try all they can, and are very responsible and hospitable. You get a lot of service for your money: a huge room, that is very clean, a balcony, air-con, pool, fridge, cable TV, room service, and a cheap mini bar.
มาที่นี่โฮสเทล
New building. Bed light, international power plug, 2 hooks, curtain (lower and upper beds), giant locker (easy 80L, need padlock), shower (soap, real hot water), water fountain, fridge, coffee machine, free luggage storage. Laundry wash 40, dry 30 (2F).
This luxury hotel is beside Don Mueang Airport and even connected to its terminal buildings by an enclosed overhead walkway. Since the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport, the quality has gone down steadily though. While still a good hotel, breakfast, service, and rooms are less impressive than before. Three restaurants closed down and there's only one left now, and breakfast is not included by default. There's still a good pool though.
A large and pleasant hotel. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and clean. Also has an elegant lobby, nice front gardens, and a large breakfast. It is mostly useful if you're taking off from Don Mueang Airport (or maybe if you want to stay closer to Ko Kret).
Formerly Sofitel Centara Grand
Far from downtown, but at least close to a convention centre, shopping centre, and easily accessed from the expressway and metro. It is probably the best digs in this part of town.
A center for Thai sweets]], fresh and dried food, fruits and vegetables, including ready-to-eat meals.
The two big downsides of the Chatuchak Weekend Market is that the heat is unbearable at times and that it's only opened in weekends. Chatuchak Plaza seeks to combat these complaints: it gives a similar experience as the Chatuchak Weekend Market, but is open every day of the week and is fully air-conditioned. It does a fairly good job, but when walking here you start to miss the chaos of the real thing.
A fairly large shopping mall, JJ Day and Night really lacks character. The corridors are fairly small and there's a lot of budget clothing shopping to be done. A large share of the action happens outside.
This large air-conditioned shopping mall is well-developed and looks professional. Each floor has different goods on sale: the ground floor has handicrafts, paintings and home decorations; the first floor has clothing, accessories and jewellery; and the second floor has health products and a large food court.
ตลาด อ.ต.ก., also known as Aw Taw Kaw Market or Marketing Organisation for Farmers (MOF) Market
Right next to Chatuchak, far fewer tourists make it to the best place in Bangkok to buy high-quality plants and food produce straight off the farm. Prices are a bit higher than at small neighbourhood markets, because Or Tor Kor is cleaner and its products are better quality. There's also a food market that is definitely worth a visit.
A wet market, operated by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA).
A large night market.
A night market.
Huge mall with a good food court on the basement level and a phenomenal selection of cosmetics on the first floor.
By train
Bang Sue Train Station (สถานีกลางบางซื่อ Sathani Klang Bang Sue; pronounced "bahng soo") is Bangkok's shiny new central station and the terminus of almost all long-distance train services in the…
By public transit
The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phahonyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road with the most important areas of the district covered.
By bus
Bus travel in Phahonyothin is very troublesome. Getting from north to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traffic.
By taxi
Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive) way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both short and long distances. Always insist on the meter.
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