Aswan

The northern hills of the west bank are filled with the rock-hewn tombs of princes from the Old Kingdom to the Roman period. The 6th Dynasty tombs, some of which form linked family complexes, contain important biographical texts. Inside, the tombs are decorated with vivid wall paintings showing scenes of everyday life, hieroglyphic biographies and inscriptions telling of the noblemen's journeys into Africa. The ticket gives you access to the Tombs of Mekhu & Sabni and the Tomb of Sarenput II on the left side coming up the hill, as well as the Tomb of Sarenput I on the right side, for all of which you will need the key holder waiting for you when you come up. Generally, you should get into the tombs without problem, but when buying the ticket ask for it to get confidence and refer to this knowledge when you get hassled by the key holder. Try to go with several other people, so you can take some pictures when the key holder is busy, especially in the Tomb of Sarenput II. Otherwise, you will probably have to pay him a fee for taking pictures. On the right side there is also a tomb (no. 35 l) with a spectacular bat colony at the far end, if you bring a torch (or you mobile's camera).

Small shrine/tomb of a local sheikh and holy man. The climb is rewarded with amazing views of Aswan, the Nile river and the surrounding landscape, richly evoked in the translation from the Arabic of the place name, "the dome of the wind'.

Tomb of the 48th iman of the Islami sect and his wife. Visible from the outside, although closed to the public.

The history of the monastery of St. Simeon dates back to the 7th century, and survived long as a Christian stronghold of southern Egypt until destroyed by Saladin in 1173. While still in use it housed 300 monks, and could in addition receive up to 100 pilgrims at a time. The monastery was surrounded by a 10 metre high wall, and doubled as a fortress. Apparently, the monastery did not return to its original use after Saladin's destruction. To get here, ride a camel or walk from the Tombs of the Nobles.

This was built 1899-1902 across the First Cataract, upriver from town. It was a wonder in its time, the largest masonry dam in the world, but its water capacity soon became insufficient and led to the construction of the High Dam 6 km upstream. The Nile forms a lake behind the Low Dam with small islands; the main sight is the Philae Temple. This was initially left in place, but flooding became more common as the Low Dam was progressively raised; the site was seldom accessible and the flooding damaged the temple decorations. It was relocated to Agilkia Island in the 1960s. The nearby Bigeh island also had shrines. Lake Nasser itself is behind the High Dam.

Built to honour Isis, this was the last ancient temple built in the classical Egyptian architectural style. Construction began in approx 690 BC. It was moved from Philae Island, to its new location on Agilkia Island, after the flooding of Lake Nasser. A multinational UNESCO team relocated Philae, and other temples that now dot the shores of Lake Nasser. You can see the submerged island a short distance away, punctuated by the steel columns used in the moving process. Don't miss the Sound and Light show at night, see picture to the right, the least cheesy of the Sound and Light "extravaganzas". Note also the re-use of the temple as a Christian church, with crosses carved into the older hieroglyph reliefs, and images of the Egyptian gods carefully defaced. There are graffiti dating from the 1800s. At the ticket office there is a sign stating that a daytime motorboat to the site costs LE150 roundtrip for 1-8 people including a one-hour wait, which is generally enough time (Nov 2018). Take a picture of this sign to use when haggling with the boatmen who will demand LE150 each way, although don't be surprised if you are still pressed for an additional baksheesh.

A hypaethral temple on Agilkia Island in Old Aswan dam reservoir. One of the largest Ancient Egyptian monuments standing today, it is conventionally attributed to the Roman emperor Trajan, who gave it its current decorations, though some experts think the structure may be older, possibly dating to the time of Augustus.

Sculptors from around the world exhibit their pieces here every spring for the International Sculpture Symposium. The works are all created in Aswan (on the terrace of the Basma Hotel) and when finished brought to this site and exhibited next to each other within view of the ancient quarry.

Despite being a very important piece of infrastructure, the Aswan High Dam is (to put it delicately) a bit of a letdown even for dam lovers.

Massive monument commemorating the assistance of Soviet Union in building the dam.

Like Philae, this temple and its surrounding ruins were moved by UNESCO to save them from the floodwaters of Lake Nasser. The main temple was built to the Nubian fertility and sun god Marul during the rule of Emperor Augustus.

The temple of Gerf Hussein is dedicated to Ramesses II and was built by the Viceroy of Nubia Setau. Originally, it was partially free-standing and partially rock-cut. During the flooding of Lake Nasser, the free-standing section was dismantled and then rebuilt at New Kalabsha. Most of the original rock-cut Gerf Hussein temple was left in place and is now submerged beneath the waters.

The rock-cut temple of Beit el-Wali was moved from its original location by a Polish archaeological team. It is dedicated to Ramesses II, and the gods of Amun and Anukis (among others). It was originally decorated in bright colors, but these were mostly removed by a "squeeze" taken in the 19th century (the results of this squeeze are now on display in the British Museum).

A tiny Roman kiosk with four slender papyrus columns inside and two Hathor columns at the entrance. It is a small but elegant structure that "is unfinished and not inscribed with the name of the architect, but is probably contemporary with Trajan's Kiosk at Philae."

It was built within the outer wall of the temple of Kalabsha, and is dedicated to the Nubian serpent goddess, Dedwen. It was moved along with the Kalabsha temple to New Kalabsha.

Bikes available at many hotels. Cross the modern bridge to the east bank and bring back your bicycle afterwards by ferry boat.

Grab a felucca captain and they will shuttle you across to the camel marshalling area. Ride the camel to the Monastery of St Simeon.

You will get a fascinating insight into their daily lives, and they love to practise their English on you. Nevertheless, they will certainly try to sell you something in exchange for the free tea.