
Comune in Piedmont, Italy
Photo: via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Asti is the capital of the province of Asti, one of the most important wine areas in Italy, and lends its name to some illustrious wines, such as Moscato d'Asti. Asti is the main commercial centre of Piedmont's wine area, but still retains a friendly, small town feel and is a good base for touring Piedmont.
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Built on the site of Asti’s patron saint’s martyrdom (119 AD), rebuilt in the 13th century, and houses the bones of the sacred saint of Asti in the crypt and the Palio d’Asti banners in a chapel.
Built in the 14th century, one of Piedmont’s most important Gothic churches.
13th-century Asti was known as the “city of 100 towers” – in fact there were 120 of these fortified family bolt-holes, of which about 12 still survive. This tower is open to visitors on weekends to walk up the summit. Closed in winter months from November to March.
Oldest surviving tower dating back to Roman era (1st century), formerly part of the old gate.
An old palace, used as the mayor's office and other Asti commune offices. Visitors allowed on the first floor halls.
It houses a large collection of historical documents and maps, including a room dedicated to Palio di Asti. Open weekdays in normal hours, €2.50 admission.
Asti’s theatre, built in 1860, resembles an opera house and was renovated in 2002. Often if someone is there they will let you wander around.
8th-century.
Baptistery of Saint Peter
Romanesque church and museum complex (palaeontological and archaeological) built in the 12th century, modelled on Church of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, with cloisters, tower and pilgrims hospice.
Visit by appointment only.
Scassa specializes in making tapestries based on famous paintings. Visits are free by appointment.
This historic bareback horse race is the oldest one of its type in Italy originating in 1273, when the Astigiani staged a race beneath the walls of the enemy city of Alba causing great devastation to their vineyards. Wars between Asti and Alba have long since ceased, although to this day there is intense rivalry between the cities, and the Palio horse race is now held every 1st Sunday in September. All the ancient borgo (boroughs) of Asti, and many nearby towns enter both a horse and a contingent for the medieval parade preceding the Palio. The parade starts at the Cathedral and winds through the historical medieval town ending up on the Palio arena on Piazza Alfieri. There are 3 heats, followed by an interlude for the flag-throwers to show their skills; then the final is raced (usually after several deliberate false starts) and the winner claims his prize - the precious banner with the picture of Asti’s patron saint, the "Palio di Asti".
It holds every second weekend in September. Every small town and commune in Piedmont holds a “Sagre” festival celebrating their special food dish and local wines. The Asti Sagre is the “Sagre of Sagres” where some 50 or so provincial towns and communes build a thematic stand in the Campo Del Palio and for two days over the weekend hold an eating festival. Tickets are bought directly at each stand and typically cost €3-4 a plate, plus €1-2 for a glass of wine. On the Sunday morning all the participants sponsor a float depicting traditional rural themes, such as wine making, truffle hunting, distilling grappa, old threshing machines, laundry day, etc. (there’s even one depicting the local bordello). The staging area is in the Campo del Palio and the parade goes through the medieval town, pulled by antique tractors lovingly maintained for the occasion.
For 10 days between the Sagre and Palio, Asti holds the Douja D’Or (gold goblet) wine tasting competition and symposium. Every day there are taste workshops, learned discussions, wine judging, label competition, plus speciality plates from the local restaurants and music at night. Over 400 wines are available for tasting, not only Piedmontese but from all over Italy and each year a non-Italian wine region is featured.
Piedmont's flag-throwing teams are justly famous and every Asti Borgo and provincial town sponsors a team, who compete in the Piazza San Secondo in a night time spectacle during the Palio week. This event is not staged for tourists, its very much for locals to support their commune, and hence has a lot of character and charm.
Good wine selection and value.
Regarded as Asti’s best restaurant (and most expensive).
Regional cuisine. Rabbit in tuna sauce, bagna cauda, Piedmontese wines.
The old hotel in the heart of town on Piazza Alfieri, good restaurant (Il Flauto Magico), wine bar and pizzeria downstairs.
One of Asti's oldest bars, originally opened by Cocchi spumante house.
Wine bar and restaurant.
Inexpensive hotel next to train station.
4-star hotel in central Asti, close to train station and campo del Palio.
Agriturismo B&B 10 minutes from Asti, owned by British couple, with vineyard and winery.
Linens, materials, laces, table clothes and small gift items.
Cakes, chocolates and biscuits.
Good selection of local wines and wine bar at very reasonable prices – owner speaks English.
Wonderful delicatessen close to Piazza Alfieri.
Asti’s best cheese shop, also a wine bar and café ideal for a light lunch.
Open every day except Sunday and Thursday afternoon. Bakeries, cheeses, meats, fish, etc. Good quality.
By car
Asti is on the A21 Torino-Piacenza autostrada; other (scenic) routes are via SS231 from Ventimiglia via Cuneo, Bra and Alba; via SS457 from Casale Monferrato (and Vercelli); via SS458 from Ivrea and…
By train
Asti is a principal station on the main Turin to Rome line. Frequent trains from Turin (30 minutes) or Genoa (one hour). From Milan you need to change in Alessandria or Voghera.
Central Asti is quite compact and there is a large and reasonably well preserved historical centre which is easy to walk around.
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