Alisher Navoi Theatre

The first floor is a small exhibition area, the second covers from the Stone Age to the takeover by the Soviet Union, and the third is dedicated to independent Uzbekistan from 1990. Signage is in Uzbek, Russian and English, but patchy and dimly lit. The museum has been closed for refurbishment since June 2024 with no word on timescale.

Exhibitions of contemporary Uzbek artists in a modern building. Overpriced for what you get.

Timur (1336 – 1405) was the brutal and brilliant nomad warrior who united much of central Asia under his rule and laid waste far beyond. He was badly injured while livestock-rustling in childhood, hence his western name of Tamerlane, Timur the lame. When Uzbekistan became independent in 1991 its rulers sought a national cultural narrative and legitimacy, and fastened upon Timur. This grand building opened in 1996 is as much a shrine and political statement as a museum.

Large collection of Russian and European art, many depicting Uzbek people and their lifestyle and antiquities. The previous curator should be out of jail by now, he served a long sentence for selling the works on the black market and replacing them with copies. No info on the length of the temporary closure, which is possibly to stop him having another go.

Ikuo Hirayama (平山 郁夫, 1930-2009) painted dreamy scenes of the Silk Road across central Asia. His legacy funded this exhibition space for contemporary Uzbek art, his own work isn't displayed here.

This cod-classical bling mansion was the residence of the country's first President, Islam Karimov (1938-2016). He was an engineer who worked his way up the communist hierarchy and then upon independence ran a regime every bit as brutal and oppressive. He was re-elected again and again by rigged ballots. The mansion is now government offices, no visits, but is flanked by a small museum to his glory open Tu-Su.