Photo: Flickr user: Owen Byrne Halifax https://www.flickr.com/people/ojbyrne/, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
South Baltimore is the entrance point for most visitors to the city, coming in off I-95 from the south, and home to one of the city's number one attractions—Fort McHenry, as well as both the Orioles and Ravens stadiums. Those who dig a little further will find a vibrant dining and nightlife scene in beautiful, historic Federal Hill, as well as venerable, but less visited neighborhoods that define what it is to be authentic Baltimore.
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This museum is actually in the house where the Great Bambino himself was born. The museum isn't huge, but should be considered a can't-miss attraction for baseball fans. There is a white baseball "trail" leading from Camden Yards straight here, so it isn't hard to find. Plan to spend about a half hour looking at the exhibits on his life, and also the neat new one on the 500-homer club.
Baltimore's museum of the common man defies the idea that history is just about politicians, wars, and artists. You'll see recreations of a cannery, a turn of the century textile factory, a printing press, Dr Bunting's old pharmacy, and exhibits on the Domino Sugar Factory. There are plenty of good hands-on activities for kids—they can even become child laborers in the textile shop!
This big hilly park is one of Baltimore's best points for picture taking, as it overlooks the Inner Harbor, with great views of both the north and south skylines. You'll note that the cannons all seem to be awkwardly pointed at the city's central business district. The cause for this was the Union troops's suspicion of the famously irascible and rebellious Baltimoreans from siding with the Confederates in the Civil War (or simply from generally rioting). They set up on this well located hill to intimidate the city into submission.
Really a must-visit for any tourist in Baltimore, this is the birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner, the United States National Anthem. The fort's military history is best known for its central role in the defense of the country in the War of 1812, simply named the Battle of Fort McHenry. At the time, Baltimore was the industrial powerhouse of the United States, and was a critical producer of ships and armaments. Fort McHenry remained relevant in future wars: a prison for captured Confederate soldiers in the Civil War, a military hospital during WWI, and again an active Coast Guard base during WWII. Since 1925 it has been designated as a National Park (and since 1939 doubly listed as a National Monument), and is today a museum, with plenty of cannons and nooks and crannies to explore. Back to the National Anthem, it was Francis Scott Key, who escaped here from British captivity in the War of 1812, and joins Edgar Allen Poe, Thurgood Marshall, and H L Mencken as a preeminent icon of the city and the eponym for dishes at restaurants, bridges, and one impressive golden statue in Bolton Hill. He might be a little sad to see that the flag is not still there. It was getting extra raggedy after all these years, and was moved to the National Museum of American History in Washington, D.C. for preservation.
Home to Baltimore's premiere events and house parties. They're a bit infrequent, so check the website.
In the far-southern neighborhood of Arbutus.
Afram
This festival to celebrate African-American culture is held every June at M&T Bank Stadium at Camden Yards. It features carnival rides, vendors selling lip-smacking soul food specialties, and musical performances by African-American artists.
Baltimore Ravens
Baltimore's new football team, in the form of the former Cleveland Browns, is wildly popular with locals, especially following their Superbowl wins in 2000 and 2013. As for the stadium itself, known unimpressively as "M&T Bank Stadium," but better referred to "The Bank", "The Nest", "The Asylum," or just "Ravens Stadium," is new as of 1998 and quite nice. For food, be sure to pick up some boardwalk fries. For parking, just don't. It's $40 and game day traffic is emphatically not fun.
Baltimore Orioles
The local baseball team plays at Oriole Park, better known as Camden Yards. It's often considered one of the nicest in the nation, with a retro style, but modern facilities (constructed in 1992). No name is better associated with the stadium than Cal Ripken Jr., who set the world record for playing 2,131 consecutive games on 6 September 1995, (a little less well known, but still historic, was Eddie Murray's 500th home run, exactly one year later to the date). Avoid trying to park here, for the same reasons as below for Ravens Stadium. Even when a game is not being played, the team still offers tours of the ballpark starting in March (though check their website for times).
An almost startlingly good little place in Locust Point, with a Palestinian owner who knows his falafel.
This is the best spot for pizza within a few blocks of the Inner Harbor, with a tasty, thick fresh dough crust, and a nice bar.
As Natty Boh is to Baltimore beer, Berger Cookies are to Baltimore sweets. Incredibly rich, you should only ever eat one, and probably get two glasses of milk handy. The cookie is of the soft sugar variety (German vanilla wafer, to be precise), with a fudgy chocolate top so thick that it's better to think of it as an extra brownie. Berger's has been turning out these cookies for 175 years, and it's a true Baltimore tradition. You can buy them online, you can find them at Lexington Market (at De Bauffre Bakery), but adventure seekers can head straight here, to the factory itself, for the fix.
Whether to go to this Lebanese hole-in-the-wall or to Baba's for your Middle Eastern fix is a questions generally best determined by proximity. It is similarly excellent, cheap, friendly, and informal. But it also can claim to be one of the best places in South Baltimore for vegetarian/vegan diners. Because it is in the thick of Federal Hill, though, it will be more crowded!
One of Baltimore's many covered markets, this little known building houses a lot of tasty, quick, cheap food. Some local favorites include Bruce Lee's Wings, Hot Corner Lee's for the real deal Philly cheesesteaks, and O's Breakfast and Barbeque (M-Sa 7AM-5PM, and especially for that breakfast!).
Nick's chicken is very very good—maybe the best chicken of any sort in the city. Beyond the scrumptious birds, roasted, smoky, spiced, juicy, succulent, the menu is a short list soul food, with the mac n' cheese and corn muffins being especially recommended (small mac n' cheese, listed as a "salad," is 99¢, so there are no excuses). They also offer subs, but it's not clear if anyone ever orders them. Nick's is not too far into Pigtown, coming from Camden Yards, and is honestly worth the walk (and putting up with the often rude staff). Carryout only, so plan to find a bench quickly.
This Mexican creperie (wtf?) is good for... both Mexican dishes and crepes. The overlapping crepes with Mexican ingredients are a treat, and really everything is done well and fresh here. Definitely a good place for a couple that is having trouble agreeing on what type of food to eat. Or just hungry people on a budget who want a really solid breakfast.
Well hidden—no, really, you'll have to work hard to find the place—Rheb's is a classic Baltimore candy shop, with great, homemade chocolates. Coming westbound on Wilkens Ave, turn into the unmarked alley/small street (Bloomfield Ave) immediately after passing Caton Crossroads Professional Center (a large red brick building with green awnings).
A cheap, no frills restaurant, with friendly service and authentic Mexican cuisine. The margaritas are big and stiff, and the staff speaks precious little English.
Federal Hill's spot for loaded gourmet burgers, with a list of options long enough to keep you busy for a good 10 minutes figuring out what to order!
Hersh's has garnered a lot of positive attention around town for cool ambiance, high class cocktails, craft beers on tap, and some really good gourmet pizza (and pastas).
The Italian food at this middle-of-nowhere spot is surprisingly quite good, unsurprisingly cheap, open until 4AM every night(!), and actually has a drive-thru for called in orders! Being in Southwest Baltimore, perhaps it's not surprising that they also have some soul food on the menu (the fried chicken is another surprisingly good dish). A simple place, no doubt, but a pretty sure bet for a solid meal.
If you want a truly authentic Baltimore crabs/seafood experience, Locust Point has got to be the place to have it (the fact that you are further off the beaten path means a cheaper meal as well). L.P. Steamers is widely recognized as one of the city's best spots for steamed crabs, and has a nice menu of other seafood be it steamed, broiled, or deep fried. Their crabs are not served with Old Bay, but rather with a house blend of spices. While this may seem to the untrained eye to be sacrilege, remember that way back in the day just about every Maryland crab shack had its own spices—this is tradition. Rooftop dining in the summer equals fantastic views over the Inner Harbor.
Matsuri is considered by many the best Japanese restaurant in the city, for its fresh sushi, crisp and tender tonkatsu, and satisfying tempura in a casual, calm environment. Not everything is perfect here, but Baltimore is not exactly a sushi destination!
Maynard's is somewhat of a local center for the Brooklyn neighborhood—popular for lunch and dinner in the day, and for DJs and live music after hours. The menu is assertively Baltimorean, with "hon fries," "Greektown gyros," "Bawlmer crab dip skins," "Francis Hot Key sandwiches," etc. Crab manages to show up in over half of the dishes. What the deal is with the Nixon posters is not exactly clear.
Federal Hill's solid neighborhood Thai restaurant. It's perhaps not worth hunting down if coming from, say, Fell's Point, but if you are in the Inner Harbor west area or by the stadiums and are in the mood for Thai, it's certainly worth a walk.
In the far-southern neighborhood of Arbutus.
One of Baltimore's best set-up live music venues occupies a Goldilockean not-too-big, not-too-small space, although it does get overcrowded on the weekends with the weekend Federal Hill crowd. Shows tend to be rock, and the dance floor can be a very good time depending on the clientele that night.
Famous above all for its excellent brunch, this older establishment that treads the line between the gentrification crowd and the neighborhood is a fine place for a reliable lunch or dinner in the middle of the week, or just for the bar (which has free shuffleboard!).
This is one of the best dive bars in this part of the city. Quiet, not too crowded, and away from the frat party to the north. The cocktails can actually be pretty good, and worth a slightly higher price than you would find at a more off-the-beaten-path dive bar (which would pretty much be limited to gin & tonics and rye & sodas anyway). The patrons also tend to be a bit older and more mature, and there are rumors of hipsters, although it's a little doubtful you would find any in Federal Hill.
They're not kidding—this is literally a magic bar, with magicians coming in to perform. Yes, the patter is a little corny, but the tricks are cool, the atmosphere is classy, and the stiff martinis are actually pretty good. All in all, this is a nice change of pace, if you are in the mood for something different.
Mum's is pure Baltimore. It's dark, dank, local, loud, and free of the occasionally awful wannabe-Jersey Shore Federal Hill crowd. It has been in the neighborhood a long time, and was reasonably well known in the punk/hardcore days of the city (they still occasionally have live music). If you feel like forgetting your evening and waking up in some random part of Baltimore, or potentially another town, try some shots of "Evil." Pool table in the back.
A rare breed on Cross St, this is actually a pretty laid back pub with good pizza and even better microbrews—mostly fruit-infused. It's also a hit with dogs. The "Dog Deal" is a very impressive two (smallish) mugs of beer for $4.
Surprisingly, there do appear to be Republicans in Baltimore, and the only place you can reliably find them is at this bar/lounge, decorated with statues of conservative icon President Reagan. If Republican, you've found a haven full of like-minded singles. If not Republican, it's still a fun (and even kind of kitschy) party, with pool and good bar food.
This is likely the best bar by the Ravens and Orioles stadiums, a big sports bar that does most things right, in particular the regional craft beers on tap, the big LCDs, and the proud, friendly Baltimore sports loving crowd.
The three floors are usually packed (especially intense F-Sa), with a popular sports bar up front and a second floor dance floor full of people dancing the night away to Top 40 under the influence of vodka red bull slushies (really). Half price crab cakes on Wednesday nights!
Zeeba probably has Baltimore's swankiest hookah set up, with comfy seating, fairly expensive hookah, and good Middle Eastern food available. Clientele is surprisingly Middle Eastern. F-Sa nights have belly dancing starting at 10PM. Watch out for the barely advertised $10 minimum per patron.
The location is a little blah. It's very close to Ravens Stadium, which is good, but it's surrounded by gas stations for refueling before hitting the highways. While close to Federal Hill, the walk back under the highway overpass at night would be too lonely and would suggest a cab. On the upside, though, it's cheap and has parking ($15/day), as well as an outdoor pool, gym, and business center.
If the four diamond Hilton below is too pricey, you can always sleep across the street in the Hilton-owned three diamond Hampton Inn (which actually tends to get "better for the money" reviews).
The Hilton is big, quite new, expensive, centrally located, and very nice. Big gym, heated indoor lap pool, sauna, and whirlpool.
Upscale chain hotel just north of Oriole Park at Camden Yards and the M&T Bank Stadium (where the Ravens play), just a few blocks from the Convention Center.
Rachael's occupies one of the oldest surviving buildings in Historic Ridgely's Delight. This fully restored B&B is one block from the Baltimore Convention Center Hotels, the Orioles at Camden Yards, and the University of Maryland.
Federal Hill's used bookstore also has garnered several "best of Baltimore" awards from the City Paper over the years, and it is indeed a fun place for book lovers to stop in. The selection is wide and refreshingly well-organized.
This is one of Baltimore's best cigar shops, with nice owners and a pleasant cigar lounge in the back with coffee and cable TV.
The name gives it away—you won't find whatever you were looking for, but something amongst the fun browsing inside will get your interest piqued. Good spot for gifts, particularly retro, antique, or just plain eccentric home decor.
Classy shoestore with classy shoes and classy service. The selection is big, and the staff are excellent. Not a place for sneaks.
As the Hon-do name suggests, this is a fun place to shop for Baltimore souvenirs, with requisite hon glasses and Natty Boh apparel. Fun, eccentric gifts abound.
Baltimore's most eccentric home salvage/antiques store has an assortment of goods that is just plain strange. Even if you don't plan to buy something, a browse is certainly an interesting way to pass some time.
This funky little shop has all sorts of eclectic gifts, from home decor to jewelry to silly mugs.
Ditto the description for both Curiosity and Pandora's Box—the quirky gifts market here is fiercely competitive! Except this one also has Christmas ornaments, some clothes, and a bit of Baltimore kitsch. If this sounds appealing, you should obviously stop in both here and in Pandora's, which is virtually next door.
By rail
The MARC Camden Line runs straight from Union Station in Washington, D.C. to the stadiums, but only runs on weekdays, and doesn't run very late.
By bus
Consider Baltimore buses to be only for the adventurous, and those with a bunch of spare time on their hands.
By water taxi
During the months of April–September, you can take Ed Kane's water taxi back and forth between the pier at Fells Point.
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