Coastal town in North Yorkshire, England
Photo: Juliet220, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Whitby is a picturesque town on the coast of North Yorkshire. It was the home of Captain Cook, but is more famous as the place where Bram Stoker's Dracula landed in England. It had a population of 12,600 in 2021. On fine summer weekends it's thronged with visitors, and on moonlit nights during the Goth Festivals it hosts an imponderable number of the Undead.
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Museum of mostly Victorian curios: natural history, local shipping and so on. It incorporates an art gallery.
The first abbey was founded in 657 AD, one of its monks being Caedmon, England's earliest known poet. In 664 the Synod of Whitby codified many religious practices such as the date of Easter, bringing Celtic Christianity in line with Rome. The abbey was wrecked by Viking raids but revived and rebuilt from the 13th century, becoming a great Benedictine centre. It fell again in the Dissolution under Henry VIII; the ruin became government-owned in 1920. It's still an imposing shell, visited by Dracula (according to Bram Stoker) in the guise of a large black dog. In 1914 it was further damaged by shelling from two German battlecruisers.
Captain James Cook was born in 1728 at Marton, now part of Middlesbrough. In 1747/8 he came to Whitby and met the local ship-owners whose house is now this museum. He learnt his seafaring on coastal merchant ships then joined the Royal Navy in the run-up to the Seven Years' War; his shore life thereafter was in London. In 1779 he was killed in a brawl with the native inhabitants of Hawaii.
Display of the local lifeboat service, which used this double boathouse 1895–1957. The modern lifeboat station is on the opposite river bank on Church St, and can also be visited M-F.
Great views, great decor and reliably good food.
Popular spot for seafood, you may have to wait.
Pub, good food and accommodation.
Long-standing traditional pie shop, three tables to eat in, most folk take away.
Outdoor café in the woods beside a waterfall. Serves homemade cakes, scones, and drinks. Picnic seating, kid-friendly.
Open Mar-Oct, this is the only campsite near town: the several other caravan sites have no camping.
Hostel in a splendid mansion next to the Abbey, with dorms and private rooms.
Marston's Inn with rooms south edge of town.
Charming small hotel with 4 rooms on riverside. The sea food gets great reviews.
This was built as a mansion in 1774, and converted into a hotel during the 1890s attempt to transmute Ravenscar into a beach resort, see above. It's now a mid-price place with indoor pool, tennis courts, fitness suite and 9-hole golf course. It's focussed on the wedding trade and does that well, but other visitors are less impressed.
Delightful B&B up the Esk valley in North York Moors. Open Jan-Nov, no dogs.
Holiday park with static caravans and glamping pods for holiday hire, with sea views across the coast. No tourers or camping.
Clean comfy small hotel at the top of harbour hill.
By bus
Coastliner 840 runs twice a day from Malton, taking 80 min via Pickering and Goathland. From Leeds or York take the hourly 843 heading for Scarborough, and change at Malton.
By road
From Scarborough and East Yorkshire, follow A171 along the coast. From Teesside and the North East, either take A171 or the slower coastal A174.
Whitby is compact, and despite the hills is easy and rewarding to walk around. You can reach the Abbey via Green Lane if you don't care for the steps.
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