Market town and civil parish in North Yorkshire, England
Photo: summonedbyfells, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Thirsk is a market town in North Yorkshire, 23 miles north of York, with a population of 5900 in 2021. It's best known for its racecourse and as the home of the veterinarian and author known as James Herriot. It's also a good base for touring the North York Moors, which rise steeply a few miles east of town.
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Alf Wight (1916-1995) was a vet in Thirsk for almost 50 years and wrote an acclaimed series of stories under his pen-name James Herriot. "Darrowby" was his fictional Thirsk, with a bit of Richmond, Leyburn and Middleham mixed in. The stories were adapted for film and TV in the 1970s as All Creatures Great and Small and It Shouldn't Happen to a Vet. That first title was especially apt because his work covered farm beasts and pet animals in a way that's nowadays uncommon. This unassuming terraced house was his practice premises, now a museum of his works and their fictional counterparts.
Small volunteer-run museum of local history. The house was the birthplace of the cricketer Thomas Lord (1755-1832): he bowled for Middlesex but is best known for establishing Lord's MCC cricket ground.
Eagles, falcons, hawks and other raptors, with three flying displays daily. It's in the grounds of Sion Hill Hall, a splendid Edwardian pile, but which can only be visited by private group tour.
Petting farm.
This was founded in 1135 and joined the Cistercians in 1147, while falling out mightily with other religious foundations. In 1322 King Edward II was almost caught near here by a raiding army of Scots under Robert the Bruce; his defenders were routed but he managed to scarper. In the 15th century an unknown monk of Byland penned one of the earliest known collections of ghost stories, jotting them on blank pages of an older manuscript. The abbey was dissolved in 1538 and fell into ruin. The most impressive remains are the west frontage, which contained a great rose window.
The Priory was founded in 1145 but what you see now is a 16th-century mansion, embellished in modern times. It's often used as a wedding venue.
Laurence Sterne (1713-68) rattled around Ireland and Europe, but his longest settled stay was his 20 years as vicar of nearby Sutton-in-the-Forest, where he wrote Tristram Shandy. This small museum celebrates his life and work. With a charming garden, and Sterne would have encouraged you later to have a drink at the adjacent Fauconberg, a 17th-century pub with rooms named for his patron.
This has regular flat-racing Apr-Oct. Free parking for all enclosures. On race days a shuttle bus plies from the railway station.
Gym, pool, drop-in fitness sessions.
Welcoming cafe with homemade food.
Comfy place, very central, with bar and food.
Decent mid-price choice in an 18th-century coaching inn. The poet Wordsworth had his honeymoon here, perhaps for the sake of a rhyme with "JD Wetherspoon".
Simple but comfy guest house.
Good budget choice a mile southwest of town.
Excellent village pub with very comfy rooms, good dining. The Garden Rooms are dog-friendly.
Caravan park in the grounds of an old stately home with seasonal pitches. They no longer offer short stay pitches but have two caravans for weekly hire.
Small upscale hotel with excellent dining. No children, assistance dogs only.
Thirsk is on the main London Kings Cross - York - Edinburgh line, but most trains thunder through.
Read in the guide"World of James Herriot" and Thirsk Museum are near town centre, but you need a car to get into the moors.
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