Dufftown

Substantial ruin of a castle built in the 13th century and abandoned in the 18th.

Shambling ruin of an L-plan castle built in the 15th century. It was one of a slew of local castles demolished at the end of that century when its owner vexed King James VI.

9 miles east is a restored 15th-century Z-plan castle. It's a private residence, no tours.

Here they make whisky casks from American oak, 150,000 of them annually. The pyramids of finished casks in the yard would be envied by the pharaohs.

Standard-gauge heritage railway running 11 miles to Keith, where the link to the main line has been lost. Its three trains a day are 1950s diesel motor units. Industrial locos shunt up and down its sidings.