Town and civil parish in County Durham, England
Photo: J. M. W. Turner, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Barnard Castle is a market town in County Durham in northeast England, with a population of 5800 in 2021. It has a picturesque ruined castle and the over-the-top Bowes Museum. Dickens, Wordsworth, JMW Turner, Defoe and Sir Walter Scott were all inspired here. Another admirer of the view was Dominic Cummings the chief advisor to the prime minister, who in 2020 drove some distance to Barnard Castle during the COVID-19 pandemic lockdown. He said it was to test his eyesight.
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Was it really worth so many fights between the Scots, Normans and Prince Bishops over this? The setting is grand, overlooking the river and bridge, and many authors have been inspired by its prospect and turbulent history. But it's hard to disagree with the 17th-century new owner, awarded it by the Crown for not being treasonous like the previous occupant, who took one look and decamped to Raby Castle 8 miles east in Bishop Auckland.
This grandiose late 19th-century concoction is County Durham's best attempt at recreating the Louvre. It holds blingy fine art by the metric tonne: El Greco, Goya, ceramics, tapestries, Canaletto, jewels, and on and on it goes. Be there for 2PM, when a mechanical silver swan whirrs into life, craning and preening its feathers then trying to catch a fish.
This was a Premonstratensian abbey built in the late 12th century, knocked about by visiting armies, and after Dissolution much of its masonry was re-used elsewhere. What's left is a picturesque ruin on the river bank that can be reached both by car and via a nice 30 min walk along the river Tees.
White tees 6423 yards, par 73.
Gym, pool, sports hall, climbing wall, various drop-in fitness classes.
Hotel in old coaching inn. Two suites, The Stables and The Carriage House, are a little distance away, as is the free car park.
Friendly pub with rooms.
Open Feb-Oct with 76 tourer pitches but no campsite.
Well-run site open Mar-Oct with 90 pitches.
Swish hotel on a farmstead, often hosts weddings.
Coaching inn on the old road through Bowes village (now bypassed) with rooms in converted stables.
Smart spa hotel with good dining on an old loop of A66.
By train
The nearest railway station is Darlington on the London King's Cross - York - Newcastle mainline.
By bus
Arriva North East Bus X75 / X76 runs from Darlington every 30 min M-Sa, every two hours on Sunday. It takes 50 min via A67 through High Coniscliffe, Piercebridge, Gainford, Winston and Staindrop.
Walk. Hodgson's Bus trundles around town every few hours: 70 to Whorlton, Cleatlam and Staindrop, 71 to Startforth and 72 to Bowes.
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Darlington, Durham · Regional · MME
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