City in Turkey
Photo: Bertramz, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Trabzon is the largest city in the Eastern Karadeniz region of Turkey, with a population of 323,000 in 2023, and another 500,000 in the outlying towns. It was once known as Trebizond, ruling an independent "Empire" around the eastern Black Sea. It's now a lively place with good visitor facilities and attractions.
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Built by governor İskender Pasha in 1559, and extensively restored in 1882. Its medressah and graveyard have been lost.
Santa Mariya Kilisesi
This is the only church in Trabzon that still has regular Roman Catholic masses. It was founded by Italian Capuchin monks expelled from Tbilisi in 1845, as part of a long anti-Catholic campaign by the Russian Tsars.
This was rebuilt by the Genoese when they took over in 1306. They called it "beautiful castle", Leonkastron or in Turkish Güzelhisar, which you wouldn't guess from its shambles of a ruin.
This exhibits city history from its Ancient Greek foundation to Ottoman times, plus local natural history and ethnography. Signage is only in Turkish.
History and trophies of Trabzonspor football club.
Kostaki Mansion
This fine mansion was built for the banker Kostaki Teophylaktos in 1889. It's been closed for renovation since 2018 with no news of re-opening.
Art space and cultural centre in the former city governor's mansion.
St Philip Church
Built as St Philip Church in 1302 and extended into a cathedral in 1461. It was converted into a mosque circa 1665. In 1968 this was rebuilt, so what you see now is retro-Ottoman.
Used as a mosque since 1953, and some believe it used to be St Elefterios Church, built by the Genoese in the 15th century. However it doesn't look it, and more likely that church was closer to the port and long ago demolished. However Hüsnü Köktuğ has a strong claim to be the city's ugliest mosque, with its jarring modern facade. In 2025 it's closed for reconstruction.
Küçük Ayvası Kilise
Dinky little Greek Orthodox basilica from 6th / 7th century AD, one of the oldest buildings in the city. It fell out of use when the Greeks were deported and many frescos were painted over, but in 2021 / 22 it was all restored.
Çarşı Camii
This late Baroque mosque was built in 1839 by governor Hazinedarzade Osman Paşa in the midst of the market quarter. It's the oldest surviving mosque in the city.
First built in 1563, but entirely rebuilt in 1987.
Nakip Mosque
Built in the 11th-century as the Orthodox church of St Andreas or Andrew, and converted to a mosque after 1461. It's still in use.
Ipekyolu Müzesi
Exhibits connected to the silk road trade.
Özdemir Bayraktar Bilim Merkezi
Majoring on space and aerospace, with planetarium. M-F it may be booked out to school groups.
Sotka Kilisesi
Former Greek Orthodox church founded in 1306 outside the city walls - exoteichos- but rebuilt in 1856 very much hemmed in by the city. It's now used as an annex to a primary school. The exterior is in good condition, no access to the interior, where the frescoes have been lost.
Ottoman mosque built in 1789 around a pre-existing church.
Built in 1987 in retro style on the site of an earlier mosque.
Sturdy Ottoman mosque built in 1822.
Panagia Khrysokephalos
The "Golden domed church of All Saints" was built in the 10th or 11th century on much earlier foundations - until the 4th century AD it was the scene of Mithras worship.In the Middle ages it was the city cathedral, and hosted coronations for the Emperors of Trebizond. It was converted to a mosque when the Ottomans took over in 1461. Restoration in 2017/18 uncovered more original features, and a raised glass platform enables you to see the fine late-Roman mosaic floor.
Ortahisar Tarih Müzesi
Restored mansion with photographs, documents and artefacts describing the city in the Ottoman and Republican periods. Signage is only in Turkish.
Founded in 1514 by Selim, then governor and later Sultan, in honour of his mother. Gulbahar Hatun (1453-1505) was originally a slave girl and became the concubine of Bayezid II; her tomb is here. The mosque was repaired in 1883.
Built in its present form in 1577, this is no longer in use, replaced by a larger modern mosque adjacent.
This was probably the first mosque built in the captured city, in 1470 on the acropolis. It was restored in the 19th century and the minaret added in the 1960s.
Large walk-through aquarium.
Church of Saint Eugenius
Built in the 13th century as a church dedicated to Saint Eugenius, the patron saint of the city. Eugenius was a martyr under the persecutions of Diocletian around 305 AD. His holy intercession supposedly saved the city from Turkish assault in 1224, but did nothing to halt the conquest by Mehmet in 1461. The church was thereafter converted to a mosque, which remains in use and is only open for prayer times.
Ottoman mosque, built in 1874 to replace a 16th century masjid but no longer in use.
Kızlar Manastırı
The only nunnery in the city was built in the 1360s around one of the holy cave springs at Boztepe. The rock church has frescoes depicting Alexios III, his wife Theodora and his mother Irene (the likely benefactor of the monastery). It closed in 1922 when the Orthodox population were deported. It was restored in 2021.
Built around the 12th / 13th century as St Akindynos Church, and converted into a mosque after the conquest of 1461. It's still in use.
The city's top sight, a Byzantine church built in the 1250s, with beautiful frescoes, arches and friezes. It became a mosque in 2013 whereupon pre-Islamic features were covered up, but most of these were uncovered in 2020. The free-standing bell tower was added in 1427; nothing remains of the monastery.
Peaceful colourful park above the city.
Atatürk Köşkü
The summer home of banker Konstantin Kabayanidis, built late 19th century. He left during the post-war population exchanges and from 1924 Atatürk stayed here on several occasions. It's been furnished to period with his memorabilia.
Monastery of the All-Saviour, Ամենափրկիչ Վանք
The Armenian Monastery of the All-Saviour is on a hill southeast of town. Its foundation date was maybe 1424 AD, over an earlier Greek church. Armenians who had survived the modern massacres left after 1923 and the place fell derelict - the walls and bell tower have gone. The church contains frescoes and has been re-roofed but you're unlikely to find it open.
A spectacular monastery hewn into a cliff. It was founded in the fourth century, with its heyday in Byzantine and early Ottoman times. It's been ruined and rebuilt several times, but fell derelict after its Greeks were deported. Many frescoes and mosaics have been vandalised, but more have been found in hidden chambers. Try to dodge the tour groups: from the parking lot you take a minibus shuttle up to the site, paying for both.
Founded in 270 AD as one of the first-ever Christian monasteries, now ruined and unsafe. Take the road off D885 towards Köprüyanı, then the track branching uphill from the first hairpin bend - this is only suitable for high-clearance 4WD, it's safer to hike the last 2 km.
Ιερά Μονή του Αγίου Γεωργίου Περιστερεώτα
Founded in 752 AD, Saint George Peristereota Monastery is now just a few walls teetering on a crag, with cliffs and other pitfalls around: don't come in the fog and drizzle. From Esiroğlu on D885 follow the winding lane towards Şimşirli, but the final rough trail starts 2 km before the village.
Large personal collection of curios and artefacts of the Uzungöl area.
Papara Park
They play soccer in Süper Lig, the top tier. They're Turkey's most successful team outside Istanbul and often qualify for European tournaments. As well as local support, they have big diaspora followings in Istanbul and Baku. The stadium (capacity 40,800) is named for Şenol Güneş (b 1952), former goalkeeper and manager of Trabzon and the Turkish national team. Trabzonspor women's team play at Mehmet Ali Yılmaz Stadium.
Yomra Tırmanış Duvarı
Sports complex with climbing and bouldering. For natural climbing try the Şahınkaya rockface in the western district of Düzköy.
Traditional Turkish baths. The men-only hamam is next to Burger King. The women-only (bayanlar) hamam is in the alley round the corner.
Eight-Column Hamam
Historic hamam to the west of the bazaar quarter. It has separate days for men and women.
Olympic-size swimming pool. Not for small children.
The city's main cinema. Some films are western with Turkish subtitles.
Trabzon Devlet Tiyatrosu
Plays are almost all in Turkish.
Cultural centre including a theatre in a modern building.
Inexpensive seafood restaurant.
Burgers, meatballs and similar.
Small no-frills fish meals at a low price
Popular restaurant by Meydan square.
Good menu selection and quality.
Cozy cafe / restaurant.
Small garden restaurant with diverse menu and live music.
Restaurant established in 1856 serving traditional pilav dishes.
A relaxed garden cafe with a small menu.
Pleasant tea garden by the seafront and old fortress.
Central and serves food.
Live music bar.
Rooftop sports and rock bar.
Central spot, one part is family-friendly, the other is men-only.
A cheap and convenient hotel very close to the Otogar.
Simple downtown place.
Basic place near the ferry port.
Clean and central, small rooms.
This was the city's medieval arsenal or armoury, now restored as an upscale hotel and restaurant.
Smart hotel 3 km east of the airport. Spacious, with restaurants and bars.
Good beachfront location and comfy rooms, but many adverse reports for reception and service.
Very central, good service and comfort, but the a/c can't cope with hot weather.
Smart modern hotel on Boztepe hill.
formerly Varlıbaş
A shopping mall with cinema just west of the walled old town.
Large modern mall.
By plane
By road
D010 is the six-lane coastal highway. From Sarp on the border with Georgia takes 2½ hours and from Samsun takes 4½ hours.
By bus
Buses from Istanbul run several times a day and take 18 hours via Gebze, Izmit, Samsun and multiple Black Sea coast towns. Several continue to Batumi in Georgia.
Walking gets you between the main sights of Meydan to the east, the central bazaar quarter, and the historic walled city southwest.
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Trabzon · Regional · TZX
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