
Town in Marmara, Turkey
Photo: Derviş Mehmed, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Söğüt is a town in the hills of Eastern Marmara Region in Turkey, with a population in 2020 of 17,924. It's a nondescript place amid cherry orchards and market gardens, and eyesore marble quarries and claypits. Yet from 1299 to 1335 it was the first powerbase of the Ottoman dynasty, which went on to establish a vast empire that endured for 600 years.
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Ertuğrul Gazi türbesi
A humble mausoleum for the birthplace of a dynasty ― Osman I built the original, but it was extensively rebuilt in the 19th century. Like the rest of town, it was shot up in the Greek invasion of 1921, but restored as before. It's an octagonal domed stone building, with the interior decorated in Ottoman Baroque style and by Kayı and modern Turkic flags. In the leafy cemetery are other graves of early Ottoman or Kayı notables. You may encounter visitors got up in Kayı warrior costume, owing less to history than to a Turkish TV soap opera: Kuruluş: Osman is the third in that series, aired from 2019.
Small display of traditional clothing and artefacts of the Yörük people of this region, and other curios. The building is from 1900, a former dispensary. Exhibit displays are only in Turkish.
Kuyulu Mescid or Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque
A very simple small mosque, built some time in the 13th century under Ertuğrul Gazi. It's thus claimed as the Ottomans' first permanent building; it's been much restored since. Within its precincts are the well (nowadays dry) which gave the mosque its common name. This was intended not just for religious ablution but to alleviate the settlement's chronic water shortage.
This is the hilltop mausoleum of Dursun Fakıh, a 13th century scholar, judge and preacher who became brother-in-law to Osman I. Since his pronouncements boosted all things Ottoman, he's been sanctified as legitimising the dynasty. He died in 1327.
Convenient location, but the lease is expiring and the place is shabby.
There's no direct transport from the big cities. From Istanbul take the YHT fast train to Bilecik, whence an hourly dolmuş runs the 28 km to Söğüt.
Read in the guideIt's about 3 km from the tomb of Ertuğrul Gazi at the north end of town, to the Mosque of the Well at the south end, so it's walking distance.
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