City in Turkey
Photo: Herbert Frank from Wien (Vienna), AT, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Kars is a city in Eastern Anatolia with a population of 91,500 in 2022. The main reason to visit is the Armenian ruined city of Ani, and Kars town itself has several attractions.
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The castle or citadel was built from 1153: it's been destroyed on several occasions but restored. Approach up the cobbled track from the south. Within is a small mosque, and the reconstructed tomb of Kahraman Celal Baba, a mythical 13th century hero against the Mongol invasion. There's not much else within but you get a view of the city. The mausoleum at the foot of castle hill by Taş Köprü is for two other fallen defenders.
Church of the Apostles
Built as an Armenian church circa 930 AD, it was probably abandoned in 1046 when the Seljuks took over - they may have used it as a mosque. It was certainly a mosque after the Ottomans captured the city in 1579 and made it part of the Evliya complex. The Russians reverted it to an Orthodox church in 1877, but when they withdrew it was back-and-forth between mosque and church as the frontier shifted. In the 1960s it housed the city museum, until that moved edge-of-town. It's again been a mosque since 1993.
Built by the Russians in 1885 as the Alexander Nevsky barracks and church, it was later converted to a mosque by adding two minarets.
Kafkas Cephesi Harp Tarihi Müzesi
This bastion was built in 1803 to protect the city from the south, which it failed to do: in 1828 the Russians raided it and slaughtered the entire garrison. It's now a branch of Kars Museum exhibiting the Caucasus conflict, signage is only in Turkish.
Covering the city's history and pre-history. The garden has a good array of statues.
Boxy central hotel with small but clean comfy rooms.
Clean rooms, some with a view. Central spot near the castle.
Pleasant hotel in an old Russian building, with 12 spacious rooms.
Simple but efficient hotel, may have parking.
Smart slick comfy hotel.
By road
Highway E80 traverses the country from the Bulgarian border via Istanbul, Ankara, Erzincan and Erzurum.
By bus
Buses from Istanbul run twice a day and take 21 hours via Gebze, Bolu, Erzincan and Erzurum. One bus a day is from Izmir via Ankara, Erzincan and Erzurum.
By train
Doğu Express departs Ankara daily at 18:00, reaching Kars 26 hours later. The return train leaves at 08:00. There are couchettes and a buffet but no sleeping car.
Most sights of interest are in a small walkable area around the castle and Kümbet mosque.
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Kars · Regional · KSY
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