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Metropolitan municipality in Central Anatolia, Turkey
Photo: Dosseman, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Eskişehir (pronounced Ess-KEE-shay-hear) is a city in Western Anatolia, 228 km west of Ankara. In 2021 it had a population of 898,369, with almost as many again in the wider metropolis. Its name means "old town" but the old quarter is compact; most of it is a new town with a buzzing student population, astride transport routes between Istanbul, Ankara and the Mediterranean coast.
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This was built in 1267 AD in Seljuk style, though later renovations lost this. It's still in use.
Karikatür Müzesi
Cartoons and caricatures.
This mosque and religious complex (külliyesi) was completed in 1525, probably by Acem Ali, who set the style for classical Ottoman architecture followed by Mimar Sinan. The roof is leaded, hence the name kurşunlu. The complex is given over to craft workshops and displays called "museums" but many pieces are for sale.
Lületaşı Müzesi
Dedicated to meerschaum (German for "sea foam"), known by geologists as sepiolite or hydrous magnesium silicate Mg4Si6O15(OH)2·6H2O. This is mined as a soft white clay that can easily be shaped, then it sets hard when warmed. Tobacco pipes were a traditional use, as the material is robust and insulating yet light - even light enough to float, hence the resemblance to sea foam. The world's main deposits of meerschaum are in Eskişehir Province.
Cam Sanatları Atelyesi
Displays and demonstrations of modern decorative glass.
Daktilo Müzesi
Collection of old typewriters amassed by Tayfun Talipoğlu.
Ahşap Eserler Müzesi
Ornate carvings from around the world.
Atatürk spent one night in this mansion, now a small museum of those times.
OMM
A modern art museum in a striking modern building of sustainably harvested wood.
Kurtuluş Müzesi
Documenting the conflict with Greece that became the War of Independence.
Cumhuriyet Tarihi Müzesi
Small museum of the Turkic people and founding of the modern republic.
Wax effigies of Turkish and other public figures.
Displays local history from the Stone Ages to the Byzantine era.
This was built in traditional style in 1916 and rebuilt in 1979.
Built in 1929, this large mosque is plain outside but richly decorated within.
Small museum of transport: its prize exhibit is the only surviving Devrim, in 1961 the first ever Turkish-manufactured car. Only four hand-crafted prototypes were made and it never went into mass production. Meanwhile the Ford Otosan works in Istanbul was already on stream and scooped the market.
Vecihi Hürkuş Havacılık Parkı
An open air military aviation museum.
Budget chain cafe for Tartar quick eats. They have another branch nearby at Değirmen Sk 12.
Serving more mainstream Turkish cuisine.
Self-service bar with trad Turkish music.
Cafe-bar with big screen TV sports.
Good accommodation near the museums, located in an old konak (villa). Friendly folks, pleasant room for breakfast and hanging out.
Great reviews for this creaky but charming old mansion.
Büyük Otel
Venerable concrete slab in town centre, comfy enough.
Simple place, clean, good breakfast. But there are ashtrays in the rooms - so there is stench of cigaret smoke. Heating not for regulation...
Reasonable mid-price chain hotel.
Mostly good reviews for comfort and cleanliness. Has a sauna and small fitness center.
New in 2023 so it's squeaky clean.
Reliable inexpensive chain.
Smart clean modern place northwest of railway station.
Clean hotel in the business district.
Another decent business hotel just off main highway.
By train
Eskişehir is near the fork in Turkey’s YHT high speed railway network, with frequent fast trains from Istanbul, Ankara, Konya and Karaman.
By road
The city is 335 km southeast of Istanbul, 228 km west of Ankara and 144 east of Bursa.
By bus
Buses from Istanbul run every hour or so and take 5-6 hours, for a fare in 2024 of 450 TL. They mostly continue to Ankara, another 3 hours.
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Eskişehir · International · AOE
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