Ankara is the capital of Turkey, central within the country on the plateau of Central Anatolia. It's a sprawling modern place around an ancient citadel, and in 2022 had a population of almost 5.2 million (second in size to Istanbul), with a further 600,000 living in the wider metropolis.
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This volcanic outcrop has probably been fortified since the dawn of mankind, but the earliest traces are from the Phrygians of 8th century BC. The castle was reinforced by the Galatians then the Romans. You stroll up through cobbled streets to the double walls and can climb one of the towers, with views of the sprawling city and distant mountains.
This is the city's oldest mosque, built in AH 574 (1178 AD) according to the inscription on its walnut mimber, but much modified since.
Scrappy remains of the stage and backstage, they haven't restored the seating. Statues from the site are in the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations.
Ahi Şerafeddin Camii
Built in 1290 in Seljuk style, and repaired in 1330 under Ahi Şerafeddin hence its other name. Well worth the hike up the hill for its finely-carved interior, notably the ceiling supported by a forest of wooden columns. In 2023, five wooden mosques in Central Anatolia were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List - Aslanhane was one of them.
Built in the late 14th and early 15th centuries, it has a richly carved walnut mimber or pulpit.
Anadolu Medeniyetleri Müzesi
Excellent display ranging from prehistory to the proto-Greek and Roman eras.
Small private art museum. Signage is only in Turkish.
Rahmi M. Koç is a member of the wealthy Koç family in Turkey. This museum, a smaller version of the one in Istanbul, is crowded with exhibits on transport, communication and science since the 1850s. It's housed in Çengel Han, a caravanserai built in 1523.
Gökyay Vakfı Satranç Müzesi
More chess sets ancient and modern than you'd think possible, including weird versions such as the three-sided game.
Molla Büyük Cami
A modest building in spite of the name, this was built around 1500.
Built by the famous architect Sinan in 1566, it's in finely-crafted Ankara stone. The mimber (pulpit) and mihrap (prayer niche) are of white marble.
Ulucanlar Cezaevi Müzesi
This bleak place was built as a barracks then converted to a prison in 1925. It held almost 800, in a mix of semi-open and maximum security wings. It was a brutal instrument of political repression, with its inmates a long roll-call of literati and activists, torture was common, and 19 were hanged in the prison yard mostly for being Marxist. There was a series of riots in 1999. It closed in 2006 and was converted into a museum in 2011.
Kurtuluş Savaşı Müzesi
This was the first site of the Turkish Republican Parliament, from 1920 to 1924. The 1921-22 War of Independence was directed from here, and there are photos and other memorabilia. Later the building housed various government functions until becoming a museum in 1981. Signage is only in Turkish.
Hacı Bayram Veli Cami
This was built in 1428, restored by Mimar Sinan in the 16th century, and with Kütahya tiles added in the 18th. Hacı Bayram Veli (1352–1430) was a poet and Sufi teacher, and his ornate tomb is a pilgrimage site.
Monumentum Ancyranum
The Romans conquered Anatolia in the Mithridatic Wars of 88-63 BC, and created the province of Galatea with Ancyra as its capital. From 25 BC they built over what had been a Phyrigian temple to make an "Augusteum" for the worship of their emperor Octavian or Augustus (an outstanding ruler, a contrast to his successor, the dark and dissipated Tiberius). In the 5th century it was converted into a church by the Byzantines. Only the side walls and ornate doorway remain.
Roma Hamami
Ruins of a large Roman bath complex, built under Emperor Caracalla circa 200 AD and in use for 500 years. They follow the classical design of frigidarium (cold room), tepidarium (warm room) and caldarium (hot room), and their relative sizes show that Ancyra had winters as chilly then as now - those coins that fixed the dates were obviously not paid out to get even colder.
Türk Hava Kurumu Müzesi
Small collection of aircraft around a parachute training tower (only 41 m, so don't expect much freefall time), and a small indoor collection. Not to be confused with the military aviation museum west edge of the city.
Display of stamps and other postal memorabilia.
Crowded collection of antique Turkish carpets, candle holders and Korans, watches, woodworks, tiles and other crafts. The 1927 building used to be a law school.
Contemporary art museum in the former power plant for Turkish Railways.
Resim ve Heykel Müzesi
Built from 1927, this hosts a permanent display of Turkish art from late 1800s to present day, plus temporary exhibitions.
Etnoğrafya Müzesi
Huge array of Turkic art covering painting, porcelain, woodwork, clothing, carpets, metalwork and weaponry. It was built 1925-28 and from 1938 to 1953 housed the sarcophagus of Atatürk, pending completion of his mausoleum of Anıtkabir.
Extensive display of Turkish painters and artists from the early days of the Republic until present times.
Ersoy (1873-1936) trained as a vet but became politicised in the dying days of the Ottoman Empire. He's best known for composing the Turkish national anthem. This museum reconstructs his stay here.
Atatürk ve Kurtuluş Savaşı Müzesi
This is beneath the Hall of Honor and displays belongings and memorabilia of Atatürk, the 1915 battles of Gallipoli / Çanakkale and the 1920/21 War of Independence, and the postwar overthrow of the Ottomans and proclamation of the republic.
This had been in the planning since 1944, but attempts at a modern style were thwarted by the conservatives. So what was built from 1967 to 1987 is a neoclassical Ottoman structure.
Çankaya Köşkü
Atatürk took a liking to this countryside mansion, which was rebuilt to become the presidential home after the capital moved to Ankara. The mansion became centrepiece of a large government campus, so "Çankaya" meant the presidency similar to "White House", "Kremlin" or "Downing Street". In 2018 the president's residence was moved 10 km north to the humongous (and off-limits) Ak Palace, but the vice-president's residence and several government offices remain here. It used to be possible to arrange guided tours of the mansion and other buildings, but these are no longer available.
Odtu Bilim Ve Teknoloji Müzesi
Large museum of science and technology. Has a particularly good collection of military aircraft, and a large steam locomotive. However, not accessible to the general public usually - you have to have an invitation to the METU campus or TEKNOKENT to pass security.
Atatürk Orman Çiftliği
Extensive model farm established by Atatürk, to prove that the dusty steppes around Ankara could be converted into good farmland. (His successors preferred to cover everything with concrete.) The barn has been turned into a museum of farming methods.
Türk Hava Kuvvetleri Müzesi
A collection of two dozen military aircraft.
Altınköy Açık Hava Müzesi
A reconstruction of 1930s-50s Anatolian village life, with buildings relocated from rural Western Karadeniz and demonstrations of crafts. The suspension bridge is a catchpenny extra.
A prehistoric cave, extensively decorated, discovered during construction of the ring road.
Merik Konağı (Altın Kosk)
Eccentric reproduction of an Ottoman-style wooden mansion, built by a local businessman during the 1960s. Now open to the public as a museum, with a decent cafe inside. A particular highlight is the signed photos of George H.W. Bush and Margaret Thatcher.
Opera Sahnesi
This opened in 1948 and looks it, the grandeur is kinda faded. It hosts theatre as well as opera and ballet.
Ranged around Susuz Lake, with an island restaurant, cafes and funfair.
This is the place to come for Iraqi food.
Inexpensive trad food.
Friendly budget pizzeria.
Great place by Ankara University Cebeci Campus for inexpensive wraps and pancakes.
Inexpensive place looking onto Kızılay Square, quality erratic.
Smart place with good cuisine.
Good value pub and restaurant.
Delicious Korean food.
Slick European-style cafe with Italian and Spanish choices.
Traditionally a rock bar but nowadays more of a restaurant.
Great dining here. They have another branch south at Nenehatun Cd 5.
It has a nice and relaxing atmosphere. There are two outdoor seating areas. The appetizers are great, and the food is perhaps even more so.
It is a very stylish place with plants hanging on the wall and from the ceiling. Decor, presentation and taste are great. Employees are smiling and interested.
Named for the mountain above Bursa, this is an above-par kebab restaurant.
Atmospheric place just outside castle, good value, not tourist-trappy.
Ürümqi is in the far west of China, so they've quite a range of Asian cuisines to go at. It's a great place for different flavours, try the roast macaroni.
Historical Kitchen Restaurant. Typical Turkish cuisine. One of the places that make the best beyti in Ankara. A great presentation and the waiters are incredible.
The name suggests a fast-food chain, and they do have other branches in Ankara and elsewhere, but this is excellent Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Thai cuisine.
Bar and late spot in the Kizilay eating strip.
Friendly place with generous servings of pub food.
Lively late-night pub with rock music.
Pub with live music and belly-dancing.
Cool place with a wide range of music.
A LGBT-friendly bar in Ankara.
Deeps Hostel
Amazing to find such a friendly well-equipped hostel so central. Open all year with dorms and private rooms.
Another branch.
Clean and helpful, you can find cheaper on this strip north of Ulus Square but most are dismal.
Charming hotel in a han, a former marketplace.
Clean friendly central place.
Welcoming central mid-price hotel.
Simple rooms but good value for the prime location.
Boxy modern hotel, usually clean, some street noise.
Functional central hotel, a bit worn.
Good value hotel 500 m from railway station.
Next to bus station, but not the ideal flop after a long journey as they play loud music to 1 am.
Value-for-money hotel one km south of bus station, rooms kinda worn.
Opened in 2022, this is a smart convenient place within the YHT Gar, pity the sound-proofing is inadequate.
Slick business hotel, the only gripe is street noise.
Good reviews for comfort and service at this hotel and convention centre, which towers like a monument above the south-side streets.
Good scores all round for this efficient friendly hotel.
Smart business hotel in IHG chain, clean and efficient.
Huge shopping mall to the northwest with underground parking and food court.
Large mall 500 m south of the bus terminal.
Next to the Sheraton, this is the main south-side mall.
Large mall with cinema, bowling alley and food court. It's northwest edge of the city so visitors might use it arriving or departing on the Istanbul motorway.
Large mall with many eateries and pubs. Expensive and aimed more at locals and university students than tourists.
By train
Ankara is on the YHT high-speed rail network, with trains:
By bus
Buses from Istanbul depart every 15 min round the clock, and take six hours to Ankara non-stop, for a fare in 2023 of 250 TL. Slower services may stop at Gebze, Izmit, Adapazarı and Bolu.
By bus
All buses are operated by EGO. Most of them are white or blue, while the newer ones are red. Central bus stops often have displays of real-time services.
By Metro
The Metro, run by EGO the city transport operator, has three lines, which intersect at Kızılay (the station's official name is 15 Temmuz Millî Irade Kızılay) Remarkably, EGO have contrived to muddle…
Suburban railway
Başkentray is the suburban line, transecting the city between Sincan and Eryaman in the west, through city centre and the main railway station, to Kayaş in the east.
By taxi
Taxis are numerous: they are yellow, have the sign Taksi on top of the car, and the letter T in their license plates. Have nothing to do with unlicensed drivers. The rates for day and night are same.
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Ankara · International · ESB
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