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City in the Black Sea region of Turkey
Photo: acizane nacizane from Balıkesir, Türkiye, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Amasya is a city in the Central Karadeniz region of Turkey, with a population of 116,000 in 2023. It's 333 km northeast of Ankara in the gorge of the River Yeşilırmak and has a well-preserved old town.
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Harşena hill has been used as a fortress since 3000 BCE, repeatedly stormed then rebuilt - what you see now is mostly from the rebuild of 1075 AD. It's on two levels and riddled with cisterns and tunnels. Great views of the city.
This house was built in 1483 and has been restored into a gallery and museum of 19th century life.
Founded in 1488 in the reign of Beyazit II, this religious school was wrecked by 19th century earthquakes. It was restored in 1978 and is again used for Koranic studies.
Mosque built in 1486 AD by Mehmet, tutor of Ahmet the son of Beyazit II. The ornate door and pulpit have been moved to the museum.
Sabuncuoğlu Medical History Museum
Medressah built in 1305 which became a mental health research facility using music to treat its patients. For 75 years or so it then housed Amasya's music conservatory but has re-opened as a museum displaying Sabuncuoğlu's work here.
Spiral Minaret Mosque
This mosque was built circa 1240. The minaret suffered a string of calamities and was rebuilt in 1730 with a distinctive spiral-fluted exterior, hence the name. Interred here are the architect and his son, but the mummified Prince Cumudar has been transferred to the museum.
This covered bazaar from 1483 is still in use. It's just unimpressive clothing and kitsch so it's a place to browse not buy anything.
Amasya İkinci Beyazıt Külliyesi
A külliyesi is a religious complex with a mosque, medressah, hospital, soup kitchen and pilgrim lodgings. Often only the mosque survives, but the Amasya complex is fairly intact though several buildings have been re-purposed. It was built in 1486 and is dedicated to Beyazid II. Today it also houses the city library and a miniature museum, see below.
Minyatür Amasya Müzesi
Scale model of Amasya as it stood in 1914. Over 10 minutes, the lighting cycles through day to night to day.
Fascinating museum with good signage in English and Turkish. Highlights include the Hittite statuette of Amasya, the mosaics, the tomb of Sultan Mesud I in the garden, and mummies from the Mongol period, naturally air-dried in their mountain tombs.
Halifet Gazi was a local governor who died in 1232. His mausoleum was built in his lifetime, circa 1210, so there was a fellow assured of his enduring importance. It's decorated with Medusa's and rams' heads but is in poor repair.
Impressive madrasah and mosque built by Seyfeddin Torumtay around 1267 AD. It's in Seljuk style with 15 domes and an impressive portal. Torumtay's own mausoleum is just in front, added in 1278.
Yörgüç was a tutor of Prince Mehmed (later Sultan Mehmed II) and built this mosque in 1431 over the ruin of a Byzantine church. The complex originally included a hospital and Madrasah.
Ayınlı Magara
This rock tomb has wall paintings within, from its use as a church by the Byzantines. The name comes from its reflective portal when caught by the sun. You may find the entrance barred.
Large modern spa hotel by the quiet little village of Terziköy. Lots of spa facilities but no very hot pool. Shows off the company marble.
19 Mayis Üni̇versi̇tesi̇ Havza Fi̇zi̇k Tedavi̇ ve Rehabi̇li̇tasyon Merkezi̇
Whilst this is used as the name suggests it is also open to the general public either staying or for a one hour ticket. Only one hamam/sauna - so women and men have different times. But separate pools - both women and men have 2 pools, one small 1.5m pool and the other smaller and sloping shallower. The women's changing room is a bit dilapidated. Of course the pools have steps suitable for infirm people. At over 30 degrees the pools may be a little too warm for some. So although no food is allowed you may want to smuggle in a few juicy oranges with your bottles of water. Top floor restaurant is only for people staying, but being in the town there are nearby small shops and eating places.
In town. On weekends treatments might need to be booked in advance to avoid a wait. Friendly staff, clean and water hot. Separate hot pools for men and woman - they recommend max ten minutes at a time but there are tiny slightly less hot pools adjacent. Swimming pools for women in morning, men afternoon. A nice little hot “cure pool”, next to the 1.5 m curvy swimming pool which has natural light. Some rooms have balconies but they may suffer from air pollution, despite the quiet pleasant spa neighbourhood which is being restored. Amplified oldish music with alcohol available some weekends.
Separate indoor facilities for men and women. As a quick scrub (kese) is pricy by local standards so you may be able to book one or a massage even during crowded weekends or holidays. Small 1.4 m–deep pools, with adjacent tiny 0.5 m kids pools, temperature is under . Tiny family baths are expensive. In summer, there is an outdoor aquapark with separate slides for adults and children. There is a mescid, car charging and a large garden with picnic tables and BBQ in summer.
A beautifully restored building of 1678 with a Swiss-style sauna room.
Built in 1510 but clean and efficient.
A small hamam with a pool built in 1495.
Mantı is a kind of homemade pasta with various toppings. This is a great little place to try it.
Modern efficient hotel on highway north of centre, convenient for motorists.
Clean and comfy place in town centre.
Friendly central konak.
Atmospheric konak on the riverbank.
Renovated historic building, beautiful cool courtyard, beds are cramped for tall people. The main problem is blaring music late at night.
On the hill south of town with great views, but cleanliness and catering are disappointing.
By train
The Hattı train runs three days a week from Sivas, which has fast trains from Ankara, and slow trains from the east of Turkey.
By bus
Buses from Istanbul take 11 hours overnight via Gebze and Bolu and continue from Amasya to Samsun. From Ankara, six buses a day take 4 hours via Çorum.
Most sights are in walking distance, but you may prefer to take a taxi up to the castle and walk down. Traffic is restricted in the Old Town and diverted through a tunnel.
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Amasya · Regional · MZH
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