
Administrative post in Lautém Municipality, Timor-Leste
Photo: Isabel Nolasco, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Tutuala is a village in the Lautém district at Cabo Cutcha the easternmost peninsula of East Timor. The village is famous for cave paintings, several thousand years old, though young when compared to remains of the first inhabitations of the island. It's also starting location to explore the Jaco island and the Nino Konis National Park. Here one may feel like at "the end of the world" and for some people it once was; from here the ancestors of Aboriginals set out to settle Australia.
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The tower of the small village church has a roof similar to a uma lulik, a native holy house that is also one of the national symbols.
These limestone caves have paintings that are estimated to be 2000-6000 years old, it hasn't been possible to confirm their age. The paintings show hunting scenes, animist symbols - turtles in particular, boats and handprints. The depicted boats are of Austronesian type so it's unclear if the creators have painted their own boats or boats they've seen passing by. There are also pictures of horses and other domestic animals that early settlers brought with them. Visiting the caves entail long walks in tropical heat and the paths are not signposted. Nevertheless you will be rewarded with great views of the sea and Jaco Island in addition to the cave experience.
Further south from the former and along the road to the beach, discovered in 1963. In this cave there's a 10000 year old engraving depicting a human face and scientists have found evidence of the cave being inhabited about 30,000-35,000 years ago.
In 2006 scientists discovered remains of human inhabitation that are at least 42,000 years old. This discovery supports the theory that modern humans migrated to Australia through the Lesser Sunda Islands.
Once the Fataluku people built several fortifications (lata irinu) around their settlements in the region. Walls and foundations of these still remain here and there. Right in Tutuala are remains of the Haro fortification, a bit to the west Lochami. At Ile Kére Kére is Mua Mimiraka, and at Lena Hara Ili Mimiraka. Other fortifications include Lorilata, Tutunchau and Upper and Lower Lopomalai.
Valu Beach with its white sands is a tropical dream, and the same goes for the beach at the adjacent Jaco Island. Jaco is a holy place that one formerly could not visit, nowadays fishermen can take you there for a few dollars. It's also possible to go fishing with them. The sea is excellent for snorkeling. Totems on Valu Beach reveal that this too is a holy place. Despite the fact that East Timor is a Catholic country, the native religion is still very much alive. This can also be seen on the local cemetery where many graves don't just have crosses but also buffalo skulls.
Established in 2007 and named after resistance fighter Nino Konis Santana (1957-1998) who was born in Tutuala, this park of 1,236 km2 covers six subdistricts including Tutuala and the seas outside. The park protects both nature and the cultural and historical heritage of the region. This includes coral reefs and the largest intact rainforest in the region with countless orchid species. Twenty-five bird species endemic to the Lesser Sunda Islands live here including the endangered yellow-crested cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea) and Timor green pigeon (Treron psittaceus) making the park a great birdwatching destination. Rusa deer (Rusa timorensis) can be seen in the forest, saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) and flatback sea turtles (Natator depressus) on the coasts. In the sea there are corals and marine life. There are also palolo worms (Palola viridis), mechi in the local language. In February and March locals collect them on the coast, marking the beginning of the harvest season, which is a reason for the biggest festivities of the year in the region (see next listing). In the park there are also sites related to native religion, from the Portuguese colonial times and the Japanese occupation during WWII.
The Valu Beach is the venue for the Mechi celebrations, related to beginning of the harvest season. The smaller Mechi kiik is celebrated at the last moon quarter in February and the larger Mechi boot at new moon in March. During this time of the year, palolo worms (mechi in the local language) are collected, or rather their reproductive organs that the worms release. They are marinated with chili and lemon and eaten, but this festive meal also includes other foods - fish, corn, rice, beans, palm wine and betel nuts. Celebrations include song and dance, and on the day after the harvest, the fane ritual where food is offered to the spirits.
At the end of the village where the land steeply descends towards the sea, is a villa from Portuguese colonial times. Formerly policemen from the United Nations were stationed here, now it's a small guesthouse (pousada) with simple rooms and an even simpler bathroom. Water is daily carried from the river in a large bathtub but it's not for sitting in. Rather you should take water with a cup and pour over yourself and make sure you don't use too much to make sure there's water for everyone else.
By car
From the Lospalos-Lautém highway there's the dirt track to Tutuala, the distance is about 25 km as the crow flies.
By boat
If you're sailing your own craft, you can anchor at the coast. From the beach facing Jaco Island, there's a track to Tutuala village.
The village itself is small enough to explore on foot. Walking is also the only way to get to many of the attractions outside the village.
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