Visa run

A visa run is the likely reason to come to Ranong. You can catch a songthaew number 3 from the market on the main road, or 6 from the bus station, for 15 baht, to Saphan Pla, the fishing port providing the link to Kawthoung (aka Victoria Point) in Myanmar. Most songthaews end up here eventually, though some follow a longer route than others. The pier is behind the petrol station. Enter the port building and go to the immigration office, at the end on the right, where you must formally exit Thailand. Get your passport stamped and then head for the pier. It is likely you will be offered a boat by touts. A longtail boat should cost around 300 baht (return), whether you're on your own or in a group. The price you pay for a boat should be negotiated before you get in. There have been stories of tourists being charged up to 1,000 baht. Sólo travelers will be asked 100 baht. Locals will pay less, on the pretext that they already have a border pass. There is also a big boat which is used by more organised visa runs, and a small-scale trip via longtail usually coordinated by a white haired chap in a gold coloured pickup who hangs around the bus station. Longtails are faster and fewer people mean less waiting time at the various immigration points. The big boat is slower and takes longer because of the number of passports to be checked, but can work out cheaper. You will need USD10 (in the form of US dollar banknotes) or 500 baht to enter Myanmar. The US dollar note will be rejected unless it is in pristine condition. Local touts sell US dollar notes, but at very noncompetitive rates. On weekends the Myanmar authorities also require photocopies of your passport made in a small shop at the immigration office for 10 baht. The boat will first go to a Thai Immigration checkpoint, and the driver will take your passport or its photocopy to be inspected, then next to a Myanmar Immigration checkpoint. For some reason they don't need to see your passport there. When you arrive in Kawthoung there will be plenty of touts offering cheap whiskey/cigarettes/guided tours. You must first enter the country by going the immigration office at the short pier, on the left after entering from the road. It is here you hand over your $10 and tell them (they have English) that you're a day-tripper. In fact they'll sell you a visa which entitles you to stay for up to 2 weeks. This should be given serious consideration, Kawthoung would be well worth a few days. If you're just staying the day, Myanmar immigration will stamp you in and out in one go so you won't have to go back there again on your way out. You'll probably be offered Valium and Viagra by touts, and helped towards shops selling cheap alcohol and cigarettes. There is a limit on what can be brought back legally, and the boat may be checked on the return journey. You'll also be offered a one-hour sight-seeing trip on a moped from the touts. At the end of the trip you may be told that the price you agreed was for the moped only and that you need to pay further for the guide himself. It's well worth spending some time in the village even if you're just doing the day trip (have a Myanmar beer!). For the boat trip back, be at the pier by 16:00 absolute latest since you will need to return to the Thai immigration office to formally re-enter the country.