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Town in Nong Khai province, Thailand
Photo: Jpatokal, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Nong Khai (หนองคาย) is a city in Isaan. The city lies on the west bank of the Mekong River, 20 km from Vientiane, the capital of Laos. Known as the Naga City (Nagas being the giant serpent guardians said to inhabit the Mekong River - see below) and famed for its lovely position on the Mekong, Nong Khai is a bustling Thai town and the gateway to Laos and Vientiane. It has many beautiful features which attract a considerable number of Thai and foreign visitors every year, including Sala Keaw Khu the almost surreal sculpture park; the enormously revered Luang Por Phra Sai Buddha Image which has a remarkable history; the truly extraordinary Phu Phra Bat Historical Park (though in Udon Province it is easily reached from Nong Khai); and the Thai-Lao Indochina Market called Tha Sadet Market which occupies many streets in the centre of town. A large part of the centre of town, including the river bank, has been made pedestrian-only.
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The Buddha image at Wat Po Chai is especially interesting. It is one of three Buddha images cast for the three daughters of King Setthathirath of Laos. The daughters were called Serm, Suk and Sai, and so the images are known as Phra Serm, Phra Suk and Phra Sai. Following wars between Thailand and Laos in 1827-28 to put down the aspirations of Chao Anouvong of Laos, the three images were taken from Vientiane by the Mekong River by the victorious Thais for eventual transportation to Bangkok. During a storm Phra Suk fell into the river, never to be recovered. Phra Serm was successfully removed to Bangkok, but on each attempt to transport Phra Sai to the Thai capital, some problem occurred and the image was left in Nong Khai, supposedly awaiting the re-emergence of Phra Suk from the Mekong. This valuable bronze and gold Buddha image is displayed on 13 April every year at Songkran.
The unexplained appearance of the famous Mekong Fireballs takes place on the last night of Buddhist Lent. They are visible from several points along the river bank but the most famous place to view them is Phon Phisai, 40 km east of Nong Khai. These mysterious pink, glowing balls arise silently from the river after dusk, and are visible on this night only. Also known as the Naga Fireballs (after the Mekong River Naga), they appear for only a few seconds before disappearing as mysteriously as they appeared. There are many theories as to the cause of these fireballs. Many locals believe it is better not to know and would rather enjoy the festivities instead. Sceptical Westerners visiting the event report they are more akin to fireworks emanating from the Laos riverbank, but generally keep their theories to themselves.
Famous for its giant catfish and displays various ocean-dwelling species as well as freshwater species. A good place to visit and relax, with a picnic garden area and a few drink stalls also available. On weekends the aquarium puts on scuba diving shows.
Sunken Chedi
A large Lao-style chedi that was submerged in the Mekong in the 18th century. The chedi eventually fell over into the river in 1847 and is marked by a number of flags in the middle of the Mekong, which can be seen in the dry season when the water level drops. It is also known as the Holy Reliquary in the Middle of the River, and was supposedly built to conserve Buddha's right foot. A replica of the chedi, called Phra That Klang Nam, was built in 2006 and sits on the banks of the Mekong nearby.
One of the most famous and beautiful attractions in Thailand. This historical park dates back more than 3,000 years and contains large and mysterious rock formations. Transport to Phu Phra Bat is available in the form of motorbike, car, or bus and can take a day to travel and experience it. It is also possible to stay overnight at Phu Phra Bat Historical Park, and this is highly recommended.
Phu Phra Bat was opened to the public in 1989 and is maintained by the Fine Arts Department of Thailand. Phu Phra Bat is known to be a very spiritual and peaceful environment and is a must-see for tourists, whether it be a day-trip or an overnight stay.
Sala Keoku or Wat Khaek
One sight that cannot be missed. This utterly bizarre park of massive sculptures (some over 20 m tall) is the handiwork of the mystic, Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, who bought the land in 1978 when he was kicked out of his native Laos. A similar park of his earlier work remains near Vientiane. Synthesizing Buddhism and Hindu ideologies, Buddhas, many-armed goddesses, naga snakes and all sorts of human-animal hybrids dominate the scenery.
Temple of the Table Mountain
It's a rocky outcrop jutting from the Mekong floodplain. It can be ascended by steps and ladders built by Ajarn Juan, a celebrated monk and visionary who was famed throughout Thailand. There are seven levels of wooden steps, ladders, roots and rocks on the mountain which represent the seven levels of spiritual enlightenment in Buddhist philosophy. Inside caves and sitting on cliffs, you will find many meditation huts that are used by monks from all over northeastern Thailand. Wat Phu Tok is a quiet mountain and a place of peace and respect where many climb to the summit to practice meditation. Ajarn Juan was killed in a plane crash on a trip to visit Her Majesty the Queen and his elaborate mausoleum is at this site also.
For those interested in muay Thai boxing lessons on a long-term basis, go to the boxing stadium beside the Grand Hotel and speak to ex-Thai boxing national champion Ajarn Lart, a friendly local who speaks just enough English. This is the real deal, so do not expect an air-conditioned gym with cushy floor mats surrounded by ceiling-high mirrors.
They have a restaurant there also. Fishing competitions held on the first Sunday of each month. All fish have to be returned to the pond after being caught. 20-kg carp have been caught here.
Catch a 50-minute train to Udon Thani at 13:03 for 11 baht. No trains back in afternoon or evening but can return by mini bus from central bus station near Central Plaza. Last bus back 22:00. The large Central Plaza shopping complex is near the Udon Thani train station. Has lots of shops, places to eat and multiplex cinema with English-language movies.
Every year, the Anou Savari Festival occurs 5-15 Mar, spanning just over one week. Unique to Nong Khai, it is the city's biggest street fair and is held in celebration of the defeat of the Hau rebellions between 1884 and 1886. Street music enlivens the festival while games of Ta Kraw are also played.
The Thai New Year takes place on 13 Apr, spilling over to a few days prior and after this date, from 12-15 Apr. Thais celebrate by participating in Songkran, also known as the water festival. Water is splashed on others as symbolism of a blessing, and traditionally it was the day that Buddha images were cleaned. Songkran always turns into a large water fight and is one of the most popular festivals of the year.
The rocket festivals of Nong Khai normally occur in May, the sixth lunar month, in June, and sometimes July (also known as Bun BângFai). Every year at these times, large rockets are fired into the sky and the crowds gather to watch the event as well as enjoy the music, stalls, and vibrant atmosphere of the festival. Visakha Puja day, the day that Buddha was born, the day of his enlightenment, and the day of his death, marks the beginning of one of the biggest rocket festivals and a parade takes place in celebration. The festival is a lot of fun and traditionally it is held to encourage the clouds to part and water the crops, as well as a way to worship Phaya Thaen, the god of rain. Rockets are usually fired about 10 km from Wat Pho Chai, but a temple festival is normally held at Wat Pho Chai itself. The festival goes on for about a week
The annual Candle Festival is a beautiful street parade which takes place on the day before the beginning of Buddhist Lent. Huge candles are built in the grounds of Wat Chayaporn on the days prior to the festival. On the day of the festival they are paraded on floats through the streets, accompanied by dancing girls, boys in their traditional Siamese costumes and middle aged devotees in their white robes.
Rowing festivals take place in Sep-Oct and involve longboats with crews of up to fifty five rowers each. During the first few weeks of Buddhist Lent, Paan Saa, the rowers begin their practice for the race. The race is a spectacular display of athletic talent and the festivities that surround the event are a must-see for any visitor to Nong Khai.
The most important festival in Nong Khai is at the end of Buddhist Lent. This is when the Mekong Fireballs appear. During this period there are dragon boat races, a big festival in Nong Khai, and at Phon Phisai where the Mekong fireballs are visible.
During late-Oct and early-Nov, the people of Nong Khai hold their version of the Chinese Dragon Festival and it lasts for ten days. It's a fantastic event to attend and involves amazing displays of acrobatics, dancing Chinese lions, dancing dragons, parades, firecrackers, and Chinese opera.
The Loi Krathong Festival is known as the second most important festival of the year and occurs between the middle of the 11th lunar moon to the middle of the 12th lunar moon, which is flood season, making the waters high and ideal for this festival. Krathong are small, floating shrines or lanterns normally made out of bamboo leaves and decorated with flowers, incense, and candles. The floating of the Krathong represents the gratitude of the Thais to the gods for the rain, as well as a blessing and good luck for the year. Loi Krathong involves a krathong parade, krathong-design contests, and Noppamas which are beauty pageants.
A locally-based volunteer organisation which provides an excellent 3-day training to all volunteers and provides placements ranging from teaching English in local schools to more distant placements in southern Thailand, Cambodia, and Nepal, and in eco-projects in Thailand and Laos.
Really good Thai and European food, with sausage and bacon for breakfast. Well-worth a visit. Lovely Thai lady owner speaks good English.
Widely acclaimed Vietnamese restaurant known all over Thailand (one royal princess is a habitue). The staff are friendly, but not all proficient in English. They offer take-away packages of naem neuang (a delicious Vietnamese dish) from 300 baht if you want to eat elsewhere (lasts for ~3 days in the fridge).
Two Chinese-style diners right next to one another serving good Thai and Chinese food. They are open later than most other restaurants. "Thai Thai" is open later, but "Dee Dee" generally has the better food.
Small food court, selling cheap Thai food, open in the day time only, typically closed by 16:00. Popular for lunch with staff working at the hospital across the road.
Has very good bread.
Serving dim sum, noodle, fried snacks, coffee, and tea.
A large riverboat that makes a cruise along the Mekong River in the evening to see the sunset, usually departing at 17:00. The Nagarina docks beside a floating Thai restaurant, the Nagarina Restaurant, serving fish dishes which can be ordered in advance to be served on board.
Run by a very pleasant young Thai woman who does her best to speak English. The prices are a little high, but the food is excellent and the restaurant is also quite nice.
Not many mock meats.
Most dishes here have mock meat, usually very convincing. Breakfast and lunch, sometimes dinner (if there's a special occasion).
Popular bar for expats. Great music and decent pool table.
Another small bar visited by expats. A couple of other small bars are nearby also.
English-owned, gay-friendly bar offering alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. Free Wi-Fi and live sport on TV as well as great views across the Mekong to Laos and stunning sunsets almost daily.
Originally the Funky Money Bar but renamed by the new owners. Small bar, popular with expats and tourists. There are now 16 similar bars along this short stretch of road.
Popular drinking spot with pool table beside the river at the start of Walking Street. Has a good picture food menu too with both Thai and Western meals.
Popular bar with tourists and expats.
The most popular bar with young locals.
Quiet with a veranda around the rooms. Fan & shared bathroom for 250 baht. Free coffee in the morning, Free hot water for tea during the day. The bicycles are also for free.
Aging upmarket hotel that could do with a face lift (2014). Has a swimming pool that non-guests can use for 120 baht.
Guesthouse with about 7 rooms in old wooden building with shared toilets and showers. One of the few remaining cheap places to stay in town. Has nice courtyard garden with tables and chairs and a couple of hammocks. Friendly owners.
15 comfortable Thai-style rooms with single and double beds. Another two rooms with private balconies overlooking the river. Has dorm rooms for 150 baht. Has in-house restaurant. Great location.
Long-established and understandably popular. In a tree-filled garden overlooking the river. It has both simple and higher quality rooms surrounded by hammocks and a variety of seating. It has a boat called the Nagarina which cruises on the river at sunset. Mut Mee owns the Gaia Bar which floats on the Mekong river below. Bicycles for rent. Yoga & meditation classes are available. Large range of good food and drinks available for all even if you are not staying here. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes offered. Free Wi-Fi. Good bookshop with a very wide selection of English language books. Good open-air massage service. Free maps of Nong Khai available with much information of what to do and see in the area and help planning trips.
A nice resort with Balinese gardens and swimming pool. Pool can be used by non guests for 60 baht, plus 20 baht for towel.
Rebuilt upmarket guesthous. Lots of area information posted around the courtyard. Rooms include air-con but no optional fan, good quality Wi-Fi.
An old, colonial style building on a good location offering single rooms with a fan for 180 baht and double rooms with air-con a few hundred baht more. The rooms are good and clean, guesthouse has nice communal area and free Wi-Fi. Friendly and helpful owner who can give you lots of tips for getting around.
วานา เวลเนส รีสอร์ท
Quiet boutique resort, situated in large green plains. There is a large pool, accessible directly from many rooms' balconies. Wonderful service, with English-speaking staff.
Good collection of fiction, non-fiction, guide books, maps and a growing collection of international titles. The owner has an extensive knowledge of her books and about Thailand in general.
There is a large Sunday market beside the railway station every Sunday afternoon and evening. Plenty of cooked/uncooked food as well as endless clothes stalls.
Also known as the Indochina market. Largely covered and winding along more than seven streets, it has much of the feeling of a Middle Eastern bazaar. An extraordinary range of items from Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, China, and even Russia can be found here. It is a daytime market, selling clothes, fabrics, electronics, optical equipment, ornaments, knickknacks, massage aids, traditional furniture and oddities. Porntip Exchange, towards the end of the market, is a good place to change currency.
Big supermarket, part of Asawann shopping complex.
Every Saturday from 17:00 on there is a street festival on the promenade along the Mekong River in the centre of town. There are many food stalls, dance displays and stalls raising money for good causes and charities. Lots of interesting items for sale.
By train
Nong Khai is the terminus of the northeastern railway line from Bangkok via Khon Kaen and Udon Thani. The trip takes 10-12 hours.
By bus
There are departures to Udon Thani at least once per hour from the BKS station on Prajak Rd. The hour-long ride costs 20 baht in 3rd class (non-air-con). 40 baht in 2nd class (air-con).
The only mode of public transport in the city is tuk-tuk. They remain inexpensive at 20-30 baht/person to anywhere around the city centre.
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