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Road in Bangkok, Thailand
Photo: Marcin Konsek, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Yaowarat and Phahurat (Thai: เยาวราชและพาหุรัด) is Bangkok's multicultural district, located west of Silom and southeast of Rattanakosin. Yaowarat Road is the home of Bangkok's sizeable Chinese community, while those of Indian ethnicity have congregated around Phahurat Road. By day, Yaowarat doesn't look that much different from any other part of Bangkok, though the neighbourhood feels like a big street market and there are some hidden gems waiting to be explored. But at night, the neon signs blazing with Chinese characters are turned on and crowds from the restaurants spill out onto the streets, turning the area into a miniature Hong Kong (minus the skyscrapers). Phahurat is an excellent place for buying fabrics, accessories and religious paraphernalia. A visit to the area is not complete without having some of its amazing delicacies that sell for an absolute bargain — such as bird's nest soup or some Indian curries.
From the travel guide. Select a place for details, a map and what is nearby.
คุรุดวาราศรีคุรุสิงห์สภา Gurudwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha
Established in 1932, this Sikh temple is the most iconic landmark of Phahurat. It is a white six-storey building with a large golden dome on top, and is the second-largest Sikh temple outside India. This temple is very important for daily life as most Indians in this neighbourhood are Sikhs. The main room is on the fourth floor, and it is possible for non-Sikhs to enter, but they need to take off their shoes and cover their head with an orange cloth. The Sikh community gathers in large numbers on Sundays and during religious festivals. They serve free Indian vegetarian food in the community kitchen on these occasions.
วัดชัยชนะสงคราม
This third-class royal temple dates from 1848, the reign of King Rama III. The temple was the project of chief commander Chao Phraya Bodindecha, who led Siam to victory in the wars against Vietnam and Cambodia. He designated his house and the surrounding land as a site for a new temple, which he called "War Victory Temple" as a commemoration to his victories. It is a relatively large temple complex with an enshrined Buddha inside the main building.
วัดจักรวรรดิราชาวาสวรมหาวิหาร
The temple itself actually is rather small, though it does have some interesting features. To the right as you walk through the gate is a small viharn. Its outer wall is decorated in a remarkable black and gold pattern, which is unusual, as usually these decorations are found on interior walls. Most travellers like to visit this place for its serene atmosphere with crocodiles, birds, dogs, birds, and relaxed monks. Crocodiles have been living in the small pond beside the temple for about fifty years. At that time, a crocodile that was found in the Chao Phraya River was brought to this temple for the safety of Bangkok's citizens. This original crocodile can still be viewed in the glass case above the pond.
Definitely off the tourist trail, this more or less deserted temple shows how local residents practise their religion. The most interesting room is the wonderfully ornamented Boonsamakan Vegetarian Hall, which is home to miniature gold characters reappearing several times in different moods and positions. Around the doorway, at the top of the stairs, you can find finely crafted ceramic figurines drawn from Chinese opera stories. Chinese opera performances are occasionally held at the other building in the temple compound.
วัดกณิการ์ผล, also known as Wat Mae Lao Feng
A short walk from the much-visited Wat Mangkon Kamalawat is Wat Kanikapon, built in the late 19th century. Certainly off the beaten path, if it is known by travellers, then it is because the temple was founded by a brothel owner. The dark green tiles decorate that the window frames bear resemblance to the green curtains used in the brothels that once thrived in Yaowarat (in Thailand, green was used to designate brothels in a similar way as red was used to designate brothels in the West). Next to the ubosot in a smaller viharn housing a Western-looking Buddha image.
วัดมังกรกมลาวาส Dragon Flower Temple or วัดเล่งเน่ยยี่ Wat Leng Noei Yi
On the list of every Yaowarat visitor, you will be amazed by the impressive multi-tiered gateway when you enter the temple. It is a Mahayana Buddhist temple, the school of Buddhism followed by most Chinese, and it has mixed with other Chinese practices like Confucianism and Taoism. It was built in 1871 in the traditional Teochew architectural style. There are plenty of statues and shrines inside. Most interesting is the part right after the second entrance. Four golden statues will greet you, each with a symbolic object: a parasol, a pagoda, a snake's head, and a mandolin. It is one of Chinatown's liveliest temples with many Thai-Chinese praying and burning incense.
วัดปทุมคงคา
This ancient monastery was founded in the Ayutthaya period. It was renovated during the reign of King Rama I by a rich Thai citizen, who gave the temple its current name. The main Buddhist image in the temple is in the subduing mara posture. The doors and windows are exquisitely decorated in with lacquered ornamentation in gold leaf patterns. Behind the temple is the Execution Stone, where King Rama III ordered the execution of Krommaluang Rak Ronnaret for planning a rebellion against him. The canal in front of the temple is a holy site as the ash of cremated members of the royal family and the royal elephants are scattered here. The temple has been completely restored, making the golden Buddha images look shinier than ever.
วัดราชบูรณะหรือวัดเลียบ
This temple is at the foot of the Rama I Memorial Bridge on the Bangkok side. Built in the late Ayutthaya period by a Chinese merchant, it is otherwise known as Wat Liap and is one of the 3 principal temples of the capital which include Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Ratchapradit, and Wat Mahathat. It had been regularly restored since the reign of King Rama I through to the reign of King Rama VII, except in the sixth reign. Some of the temple's principal buildings, especially Phra Ubosot, the ordination hall, which houses mural paintings by Khrua In Khong, were badly damaged by bombing during World War II. The buildings were later restored to their good condition.
วัดสัมพันธวงศารามวรวิหาร
In the Ayutthaya period this temple bore the name "Wat Ko", which means "island temple", as it was surrounded by a canal flowing from the Chao Phraya River. King Rama I turned it into a royal temple in 1796. King Rama IV gave the temple its current name after Prince Samphanthawong. Inside is a statue of Mara, with rows of golden Buddhas at the back.
วัดไตรมิตรวิทยารามวรวิหาร
This temple is one of the highlights of Yaowarat, but was built in a traditional Thai architectural style. It houses the Phra Phuttha Maha Suwan Patimakon (พระพุทธมหาสุวรรณปฏิมากร), the world's largest solid-gold Buddha image, which originates from the Sukhothai period. It is over 3 m tall and weighs 5.5 tonnes, with an interesting history. The image was only rediscovered about 50 years ago when it dropped from a crane while being moved. This cracked the plaster exterior that was (as it's said) applied to hide the image from the invading Burmese army. There is an impressive white structure with a golden spire next to the temple, that reaches higher than many other buildings in the district.
ศาลเจ้าเล่งบ๊วยเอี๊ยะ
This shrine, housed in a traditionally Chinese-style building is considered to be the oldest Chinese shrine in Thailand. This claim is based on the plaque inside with a Chinese inscription that states that the shrine was built in 1658. That year corresponds to the Ayutthaya period, far before Bangkok became the capital of the country. During all these years, Chinese businessmen in the area came to the shrine for refuge and to improve the prosperity of their businesses. The roof is made of glazed coloured tiles with two ceramic-clad dragons on top. The two main columns beside the entrance also both feature a ceramic-clad dragon. Inside there is a shrine dedicated to Leng Buai Ia and his wife in the centre, a shrine dedicated to the deity Going-Wu on the left and a shrine dedicated to the Queen of Heaven on the right.
มูลนิธิกว๋องสิว
As with the other foundations and medical centres in the area, this charity also has an impressive shrine known as the Guang Dong Shrine (ปูชนียสถานมณฑลกวางตุ้ง). This 130-year old shrine was built in a traditional Chinese style and used to be a meeting place of overseas Chinese from the Guangdong region in China. It was built mostly with construction materials and Buddha images from their homeland.
ศาลเจ้าหลีตี่เบี้ยว
One of the larger and more open Chinese shrines in Bangkok, you'll not find many other travellers here. This Taoist temple has a large roof with plenty of smaller shrines. As typical in Chinese shrines, the roof features two dragons that play with a pearl. The building next to the temple features a large shrine, which just like the Thien Fa Foundation, is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy.
มูลนิธิป่อเต็กตึ๊ง
This charity organisation was established by Dr Utain Techapaiboon more than 100 years ago for arranging funerals for unidentified corpses, such as accident victims. Between the foundation and the Li Thi Miew Shrine are plenty of funerary paraphernalia shops. Most interesting is the Da Feng Zu Shrine inside. It is a very lively shrine with many Thai-Chinese coming over to worship the Da Feng Zu God, make merit and get rid of their bad fortune. Many satin banners and paper offerings such as fake money are burned to ensure that the spirit of the deceased has lots of good things in the afterlife.
ศาลเจ้าเซียงกง
In one of the small sois and particularly difficult to find, this 200-year old riverbank shrine is one of the oldest Chinese shrines in the city. It is guarded by a playful rooftop terracotta dragon. One of the former owners of the shrine made money by collecting taxes on birds nest delicacies. It gets lively during the Vegetarian Festival in October, when Chinese operas and fairground games are staged. It is in the middle of the Sieng Kong Zone, a car spare parts market named after the shrine, and thus could be combined with a visit to it.
มูลนิธิเทียนฟ้า
This is the oldest charitable society of Bangkok, founded in 1902 by Chinese immigrants. The local clinics at the site provide free medical treatment for the poor using traditional Chinese as well as modern practices. Most interesting for foreign visitors is the courtyard which boasts the Guan Yin Shrine (ปูชนียสถานเจ้าแม่กวนอิม), commonly known as the "Shrine for the Goddess of Mercy". Local visitors of the shrine follow the Mahayana school of Buddhism, which is different from the Theravada school that is dominant in Thailand. The statue of the goddess Ming, to whom the shrine is dedicated, is the highlight of the temple. The statue was carved out from a single piece of solid teak and shows Ming in the attitude of giving blessings. It was carved in China in Tang Dynasty-style and is believed to be around 800 years old. The statue has been in possession of the foundation since 1958, when it was taken out of China and placed inside the temple. The exterior's architecture is typically Chinese with an impressive roof and beautiful teak carvings of dragons and other Chinese symbols. It is particularly lively during Chinese New Year.
Rows of stuccoed yellow Chinese shophouses are to be found far inside an alley. It's a serene and peaceful environment seemingly far away from urban life. They are typical for the area, and photogenic too, so don't miss a picture of these. (Note: As of August 2016 these shophouses are barricaded off and being renovated, so you can't actually see anything.)
ประตูจีนที่วงเวียนโอเดียน
This Chinese-style ceremonial gate was built by Thais of Chinese descent to show their loyalty to King Bhumibol Adulyadej. It was officially inaugurated on his 72nd birthday on 5 December 1999. The four Chinese characters on the arch mean "Long Live The King" and are in the handwriting of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn (who is fluent in Chinese).
พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระบาทสมเด็จพระพุทธยอดฟ้าจุฬาโลกมหาราช
Built in commemoration of Bangkok's 150th anniversary celebrations in 1932, the monument is at the foot of the Great Memorial Bridge on the Bangkok side. King Rama I was the first king in the Royal House of Chakri and founder of Bangkok as the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, as Thailand was then known. He was born in Ayutthaya, one of Thailand's former capitals, on 20 March 1736. He ascended to the throne on 6 April 1782 and passed away 27 years later.
พิพิธภัณฑ์ท้องถิ่นกรุงเทพมหานคร
This community museum is dedicated to the early Chinese immigrants in Bangkok. Pictures and text in Thai and English give the visitor an overview of the history of this ethnic group and their lives and contributions to Yaowarat (part of which is also called Samphanthawong District). There are pictures to see what Sampheng Lane was like about one hundred years ago. An interesting museum if you want to get a deeper understanding of the area.
ธนาคารกรุงเทพ
Opposite the Tang To Kang gold shop, and quite similar to it, the Bangkok Bank Building is one of Bangkok's oldest commercial buildings. The exterior is an example of classic early Rattanakosin-style with clear European influences. The interior is heavy with hardwood panelling.
วัดแม่พระลูกประคำ Wat Mae Phra Luk Prakham
Portuguese descendants of the early traders in Ayutthaya first settled at the other bank of the river in Thonburi (at the site of the Santa Cruz Church), but gradually moved to the opposite bank of the river. As the Portuguese were one of the most important trading nations in Siam, this church was built with a land grant from King Rama I in 1786, about four years after Bangkok was established as Siam's capital. As Portugal's influence overseas diminished, the Portuguese community was dispersed and the church fell into disuse. Due to the Indochina Wars of the mid-20th century, many Catholic Vietnamese and Cambodians fled to Bangkok and adopted this church as their main house of worship. Throughout its history, it has been rebuilt twice, with the present church dating from the 1890s. The cream-coloured church has a towering spire, an interesting set of European-style stained-glass windows, as well as a statue of Christ that is carried through the streets at Easter.
อาคารธนาคารไทยพาณิชย์ สาขาตลาดน้อย
Instead of trying to find this Art Deco-style building on foot, it is actually best seen from the Chao Phraya Express Boat. It is the first commercial bank of Thailand run by Thais. It was designed by the Italian architect Annibale Rigotti and completed in 1904 in typical 19th century European style. Each gable is unique with delicate patterns of stucco.
ถนนทรงวาด
A century ago, this road was the centre of a rice trading industry. A stroll along the road gives a good impression of the old days with tumbled down nineteenth century-style warehouses and business houses.
พิพิธภัณฑ์ทองคำห้างทองตั้งโต๊ะกัง
Chinatown is one of Bangkok's oldest districts and about 14% of the buildings have been designated as historical landmarks. Tang To Kang is one of them, an interesting colonial-style building and actually the oldest gold shop of Bangkok (which is difficult to believe now with so many gold shops scattered over the district). If you want to see the gold museum, you have to make an appointment two days ahead.
เฉลิมกรุงรอยัลเธียเตอร์
Opened in 1933, the theatre places a heavy emphasis on Thai dramas known as "khon" — traditional Thai dances based on Thai history and legends that take about two hours. The "khon" are mostly performed during the winter months, while other performing arts (including cinema) are staged throughout the year. It is best to call first to find out about which performances are on.
เทศกาลตรุษจีน
A great time to visit Yaowarat, when Bangkok's Chinatown goes on steroids. Yaowarat Road will be closed to traffic as street festivities, lion dances, and food fairs take place. Generally, a member of the Thai royal family comes over to celebrate among the Chinese community. Temples will be more packed than ever with many Thai-Chinese coming over to pray and burn incense. The best temples to visit this time of the year are Wat Mangkon Kamalawat and Thien Fa Foundation.
เทศกาลไหว้พระจันทร์
Every year around late September or early October. Also known as mid-Autumn Festival or Lantern Festival, is held. Chinese families and friends gather under the full moon to pay respect to the Goddess of the Moon. Their celebrations include the eating of mooncakes and pomelos together under the light of the bright moon. Many stores in Yaowarat sell mooncakes during the festival, so you might want to try one of these sweet cakes in all their many varieties.
เทศกาลกินเจ
Ten days long, generally taking place around September-October. Many Thai-Chinese (and increasingly ethnic Thai) come over to Yaowarat during festival time to buy vegetarian products, such as vegetables, fruits, and other ingredients. Most of the action happens around Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (which is also more lively) and in the area around Talat Noi. Look for the yellow flags at the carts denoting their meat-free status. Restaurants also adapt to the tradition, substituting soy-based products for meat, even for traditional Thai dishes like tom yam. The most interesting festival dish is the yellow Hokkien-style noodles that are usually served with vegetables and mushrooms.
ชองกี่
Many of the eateries here specialise in one dish, and here pork satay with sweet toast is the only dish served. Forget the passable satay usually served from street carts, Chong Kee knows how to make this. The skewers here are smoky and tender, and fat cuts of pork are used. Lots of herbs and the right amount of chilis are used in the peanut sauce making it sweet as it's supposed to be. Try to avoid peak hours as those can be crowded.
One of the famous places to get kuay jab (ก๋วยจั๊บน้ำใส), a roll-like rice noodle with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in clear soup. Sounds delicious, doesn't it? It looks just like any other simple budget eatery, but insiders hail the freshness of the ingredients here. The locals flock to this place, so if you're coming in the early evening, you may have to wait in line.
A Thai-Chinese restaurant that has been consistently excellent for the last 40 years. It used to be run by Mr. Sow at Sampheng Lane, but moved to its current location at Phlap Phla Chai intersection as his son took over business. Foreigners praise the tom yam kung, but the locals come here for pan-fried hoi tod (fried mussels with eggs). You can also try the muu sa-ded, pork rubbed with garlic. The owner does not boil the pork as other restaurants do, but grills it on a hot cooker until it is black. This place is so popular that it can be difficult to find a seat in the evening.
Excellent food court with delicious Thai and Chinese dishes. It works with a coupon system. If you're still hungry afterwards, head for the first floor of the building which has an excellent choice of local sweets and desserts.
This hole in the wall is known to sell some of Bangkok's most expensive rice and fish soup (khao tom plaa). It's a simple Chaozhou dish, largely forgotten in China but it has a loyal following here. The reason for the 250 baht price is the incredibly fresh fish that's used. The owners are an elderly Thai-Chinese couple who prepares each meal with care and it is possible to add ingredients to the menu if you wish. This eatery has participated in World Street Food Awards, so you're up for something. Only mid-range in price, not in ambience.
ภัตตาคารหูฉลามไชน่าทาวน์สกาล่า
This is one of the more upmarket restaurants in the area. Beforehand you can choose one of the usual Chinese appetizers such as dim sum, spring rolls, or prawn crackers. The menus are in English and have pictures so you can just point to your desired dish.
ร้านไฟเขียว เยาวราช
A street food restaurant with about 5 employees. Fresh cooked food. Reasonably sized portions. Special menu available on Fridays and Saturdays featuring crab and lobster barbeque.
ฮ่องกง นู้ดเดิ้ล - หัวลำโพง
This chain restaurant started out as a small noodles stall in Trok Issaranuphap near Yaowarat Road. Its original location had built up a good reputation, but has since closed. New branches have spread all over Bangkok and it turned lot more upmarket. Its interior looks like an old Chinese tea shop. Their Hong Kong-style noodles with shrimp soup is well regarded.
ร้านอาหาร ฮั่ว เซ่ง ฮง
The typical messy place you would expect around Yaowarat with fresh crabs and king prawns hanging out front. Inside it is a plain long hall and it is usually packed. Order the Chinese dishes, particularly the crab is worth it. Stir-fried crab with yellow curry powder is around 1,000 baht, but you can also go for cheaper dishes like braised goosefeet or roasted duck. There's also ample choice of dim sum that will be served on multiple small plates.
ร้านอาหาร นำซิง
A large and functional restaurant, best known for its bird nest but there's plenty of other fare on offer. Try the chili crab and pork neck. There is an English menu with pictures available. They accept Visa and MasterCard.
ร้านอาหารรอแยล อินเดียน
Tucked off in a small alley in the middle of the Indian neighbourhood, this simple restaurant is a little uninspiring, but is still worth it because of its excellent Indian cuisine. Its curries won many awards over the years. You might want to try the rogan josh.
ร้านอาหาร เชียงการีล่า
A large banquet restaurant that resembles the typical dim sum restaurants you can find in Hong Kong. It's mostly families that come here in large groups for dim sum, seafood and other Cantonese dishes.
ภัตตาคารตั้งใจอยู่
As featured in Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" television programme, this open-air restaurant is a must-try for some culinary delights. They only have Chinese Chaozhou-style seafood dishes. Their speciality is roasted baby pig skin, very crispy and delicious. When you've finished the skin, the pig will be brought back to the kitchen and its meat will be used for your main dish.
เดอะ แคนตัน เฮ้าส์
One of the most popular restaurants for Hong Kong-style dim sum. Good value at 19 baht a dish, but order a lot of them (five per person) to get full. The atmosphere is frenetic and overwhelming, but you wouldn't expect any different from a place in Chinatown. Service is fast and decent, and its sterile white interior looks remarkably professional for the area.
ต๋อย & คิด ซีฟู้ด
Hailed as the best barbecued seafood restaurant in Bangkok, masses of people generally stand out in front of the entrance waiting to be seated. It looks very cheap and basic by Western standards, but its great local atmosphere and delicious food make more than up for it. Air-conditioned upstairs.
Vegetarian Japanese restaurant. Don't be taken aback by all the fish and meat listed on the menu - they're all vegetarian substitutes.
Tea lovers rejoice. This hidden gem has the best tea selection of Bangkok. Just picking a tea from the menu shows the wide array of varieties available. First the teas are split by country of origin and then roughly by colour. Picking a Chinese tea seems like an obvious choice, but there are also Japanese, Sri Lankan and Taiwanese varieties available. Ask the staff for a recommendation. It has a wonderfully serene atmosphere with a relaxing tune on the background, a culture shock with the happenings just outside. It is fully air conditioned. Tea packs can be bought for home use. Prices are higher than elsewhere, but that's understandable considering the high quality of the products involved.
As always in Yaowarat, this coffee joint does not sell the usual latte or cappuccino. The special treat is Chaozhou coffee, a bittersweet Chinese brew. It's locally famous for its coffee beans, which are roasted and blended following a secret family recipe. This place is over 80 years old and has been in the family for four generations. This place has a real character and still serves as a meeting place for old Chinese businessmen. Its simple wooden chairs, Art Deco purple walls and old paintings on the wall give it a unique retro atmosphere. Besides coffee, you can try their traditional sweet drinks, such as nor kao (a tea and coffee mix) or heng yim (an almond-flavoured drink).
เอ็กเต็งผู่กี่
Another one of those lively old joints where locals have heated discussions over a cup of coffee. A noisy atmosphere, but it's all in good fun. Coffee is a must, they also have small snacks to go with it.
The cafe features flowers, branches, and fronds at every turn. They serve up homemade coffees, cakes, and frappes that can compete with any of Bangkok's finest.
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โรงแรม โกลเด้นเชน
Very cheap hotel with 37 rooms that have a TV, refrigerator, table, bathroom and hot water. A restaurant on the ground floor.
Friendly hostel located close to the central train station and Chinatown.
It's not the prettiest building ever, but its clean, sizable rooms are good value. Its location is excellent, both close to Chinatown and to the MRT station to Silom. Try to get a room with an even number as the uneven ones are closer to the road and its street noise.
This hotel is really difficult to find. It is hidden from the chaos in a filthy residential neighbourhood, but that's the charm: it feels like a serene, tranquil and village-like atmosphere, which is quite unusual in the megalopolis of Bangkok. Its roof terrace gives an excellent view over the Chao Phraya River (hence the name). But don't forget that it is a budget hotel that is aimed at backpackers, so it is very basic and not always clean. There are cheaper fan rooms and more expensive air conditioned rooms, but don't expect a lot from the cheaper rooms.
An old hotel, as is common this area, but this one clearly has a history behind it. It is in a distinctive Chinese style, and must have been an amazing attraction in the past. Now it's dusty and old, but still decent as a station hotel. They only have fan and cold water rooms.
This hotel is very basic, but it's clean and in a convenient location. Air-conditioned rooms are of better quality than the fan rooms and have Western-style toilets.
Don't expect anything more than a budget hotel, most travellers just use it to catch an early train, as the train station is only a 3-minute walk. The hotel feels a bit claustrophobic, some rooms don't have windows, and there can be a disgusting smell. The rooms are OK and have air conditioning. The staff are polite.
โรงแรม ไชน่าทาวน์
A mid-range hotel with a diverse selection of rooms. Its cheapest rooms are tiny and simple, but its more upscale rooms feel more like a boutique hotel. Rooms are worn down, as this is an old hotel in need of renovation. Ask to inspect the room before booking permanently. The staff barely speak any English, but you'll get along with non-verbal communication.
โรงแรม แกรนด์ไชน่า
The hotel seems a bit dated at first, but its location, good service and breakfast definitely make up for it. Also, the rooms have a nice view over the city and are spotlessly clean. To top it up, there's a panoramic rotating restaurant at the top floor that is really worth it.
The rooms are rather dated and not well-maintained, but at least they are clean. English is spoken. Everything requires an additional fee, such as the tiny swimming pool (50 baht) and the fitness room. Wi-Fi in the room costs 100 baht/hr. There's a bar on the roof, it serves Western and Asian dishes. Do not use the airport transfer service as hailing a taxi yourself is cheaper.
This stylish boutique hotel has an amazing contemporary design, although it does mix in some elements of historic Thai architecture. Wi-Fi is available in all the rooms, but you need to buy an access card at the lobby first. There's also a luxury restaurant and massage facilities.
โรงแรม เซี่ยงไฮ้ แมนชั่น
Probably the only boutique hotel in Yaowarat. It tries to give the visitor the experience of being in a 1930s Shanghai merchant's house. The rooms are designed in a colourful Chinese style with bright walls and silk lights. Breakfast is included and Wi-Fi is available.
บ้านหม้อ
Hundreds of shops selling electronics and home appliances. There are numerous repair shops and replacement parts on sale. Counterfeit and pornographic CDs and DVDs galore. There are few foreigners here, most visitors are Thai males looking for cheap electronics and spare parts.
คลองถม
Another one of Chinatown's typical markets, and one of the largest. It is not really one market, but instead a combination of speciality stores and open-air markets. It is mostly of interest if you're looking for low-cost electronics and hardware, such as cell phones, CDs and DVDs, gadgets, household tools, toys, vehicle spare parts, some clothing and small things.
ตลาดน้อย
This market is so off the beaten path, you may not even find your way back. Its hidden location between Soi 20 and 22 gives this market a very local atmosphere. The vendors sell fruit, vegetables, and non-food products from China. Observing daily life here is more interesting than the actual products sold. You might walk through a living room and see more of the peoples' lives at home. Nearby is the Sieng Kong Zone, which can easily be visited from here.
ถนนแปลงนาม
This small commercial road feels like a time machine set for 1914. Residents and retailers have crossed ways here for more than one hundred years. Local merchants here sell products in daily use by Chinese households, such as kitchen equipment, Chinese medicine and medicinal herbs. You can also find local shops selling traditional Chinese musical instruments, as well as lanterns and kerosene-fuelled stoves. These stores did have to adapt somewhat to changing times. The store selling Chinese musical instruments now repairs old instruments and sells equipment for use in shrines. The shops that sell lanterns and kerosene stoves now repair these items brought in by collectors. Commerce at this road never comes to a standstill as dining facilities serve food around the clock.
ตลาดสะพานเหล็ก
This cheap market on the banks of Khlong Ong Ang (คลองโอ่งอ่าง) is easily visited together with the Thieves' Market. It feels quite cramped as the shops are congregated around a very small pathway. The products for sale are toys and electronics, such as air guns, video games, camcorders, used cameras and accessories.
The oldest car spare parts market in Bangkok. Here you can get a glimpse of the daily life of the Chinese population. The locals here work in garages or repair cars on the street. You will walk by huge piles of car parts, some of them more than 3 m high. The area is named after the San Jao Sieng Kong temple.
เวิ้งนาครเกษม Woeng Nakhon Kasem
It is called the Thieves' Market as many of the goods sold here in the past were stolen. Now it is mostly known for its combination of garage sales, brass ware, blue-and-white porcelain, old furniture and reproduction antiques. Not too interesting for most foreigners, but it might be worth a look just to observe local commerce. Some of its visitors are drawn by the sale of all kinds of musical instruments, from guitars to flutes.
Known among Bangkok's expats as one of the more trusted gem shops. It focuses mainly on rubies and emeralds and has something for all budgets. The original owner, whom the shop is named after, has since died, but the store has been taken over by his son.
อินเดีย เอ็มโพเรี่ยม
This four-storey Indian shopping centre is a lot more modern than others in the area. It is mostly interesting for fabrics and Indian-style clothing, though they also have a good restaurant at the ground floor (which closes late at 23:00).
ดิโอลด์สยามพลาซ่า
A big shopping centre in a lovely restored European-style building. It is an excellent place to fresh up after long walks as it is fully air conditioned. It has an eclectic mix of products for sale, such as branded and second-hand clothes, gadgets, electronics, handicrafts and gold. For clothes shopping, the ground store is the most interesting with plenty of cheap deals. Upstairs has some speciality wedding tailors and boutiques. Surrounding the shopping centre are stores selling weapons and ammunition, but you must have a license to buy them.
ปากคลองตลาด
As Phahurat becomes deserted at night, Pak Khlong Talat just starts to become lively. Not having anything to do with the Indian community, this wholesale flower market is a great stroll through and a highlight in its own right. The endless piles of orchids, roses, and other flowers are an aromatic sight, and there is something to be found for any budget. There are amazingly expensive bouquets for thousands of baht, but also beautifully created roses for just 50 baht. The market is always open, but the best time to visit is around 03:00 when boats and lorries arrive with flowers from the surrounding provinces. If that is too late (or too early), visit it from 20:00 onwards when the market is beautifully illuminated and very lively.
ตลาดพาหุรัด
The first task is to actually find it. It is carefully hidden and you need to walk through a couple of other stores to get into it. Once you're there, you'll definitely know though, as it is a fabrics market on steroids. Thousands of retailers of Indian descent sell fabrics in so many colours, shapes and patterns. Some shops specialise in custom-made wedding gifts, dresses, and souvenirs. This old market is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, barely wide enough for two people to pass each other. It is the most typical market the Indian neighbourhood has to offer and has managed to keep its unique character.
สะพานพุทธ
A visit to Pak Khlong Talat can easily be combined with the night market at the Memorial Bridge. This cramped night bazaar is a fun walk through the dark as plenty of colourful lights bright up the place. Expect nothing spectacular though, most of the products for sale are clothing, shoes and accessories, mostly for teenagers, as well as second-hand items.
By public transit
Yaowarat and Phahurat can directly be reached by metro if you are coming from Silom, Sukhumvit or Ratchadaphisek.
By bus
The bus system in Bangkok is complex, but it is actually one of the cheapest ways to travel around the city.
By train
Yaowarat and Phahurat can easily be reached from Hualamphong Train Station, which is on the eastern border of the district.
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