Sanam Luang

Mae Toranee is the earth goddess, a deity in Thai Buddhism that is shown wringing water from her ponytail. The statue shows a legend often drawn on the murals of temples. While the Buddha was meditating in a crucial stage of Enlightenment, the evil demon Mara sent out a bunch of earthly temptations and demons to divert him from his path. The Buddha was determined to continue and remained cross-legged. He pointed his right hand towards the ground, calling out the earth goddess. Mae Toranee obliged and wrung her hair, sending a massive gulf of water to wipe out Mara's demons.

According to an old Thai tradition, a city pillar has to be built upon the establishment of a new city, to provide a home for guardian spirits. King Rama I had the Bangkok city pillar erected near Wat Phra Kaeo on April 21, 1782, an astrologically determined date for the auspicious founding of Bangkok. The city pillar includes the city's horoscope inside. Every town in Thailand has a similar city pillar shrine, so there are thousands of these all across the country. The original pillar was carved out of cassia wood, measuring 75 cm thick and 27 cm high. In the reign of King Rama IV, the old dilapidated pillar was replaced by a new one that measures 270 cm in height with a wide base of 175 cm. At that time it was placed in the prang-shaped shrine as seen today. Thonburi was merged into Bangkok in 1972, and its city pillar has been incorporated in the shrine. Hundreds of locals pray and place flowers here every day, as they believe the shrine has the power to bring good luck. Traditional dance ceremonies are often held, paid by wealthy families that saw their wishes granted.

The National Museum took over the Front Palace grounds, a former royal palace built in the 18th century just like the Grand Palace. The grounds are attractive in parts, but a bit sprawling and difficult to navigate. The permanent exhibits are a mixed bag — there are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history, but many other buildings are dusty collections of artifacts without much by way of explanation. A good way to cope with this is by taking the free guided tour in English (and German, French, Japanese), held on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 09:30. Allow a full afternoon to see this one as it is fairly large.

This museum is dedicated to the "father of modern art" of Thailand, the Italian professor Corrado Feroci. He founded Silpakorn University, the best art and humanities school of Thailand. Many of his works are on display throughout the city, including the Democracy Monument and the statues of King Taksin, King Rama I and King Rama VI. This museum is in the building where he lived and made his designs.

This is a monument to the Thai expeditionary force that fought in European battlefields during World War I. After war broke out in 1914, Thailand had remained neutral for about three years. When the United States declared war on Germany in April 1917, King Rama VI still waited on the sidelines. Thailand had good relations with Germany, although eventually King Rama VI joined the Allies by declaring war on Germany and sent a militia of 1,284 volunteers to Europe on 20 June 1918. King Rama IV said that joining the Allies "would be an excellent opportunity for us to gain equality with other nations". Thailand had lost land to France and the United Kingdom and had to accept the imposition of extraterritorial rights for the citizens of these nations. By joining the war with the Allies, he hoped that they would be more flexible in amending those treaties in future. The expeditionary force returned to Thailand on 21 September 1919 and the ashes of the dead veterans were taken to be enshrined here three days later. The names of 19 soldiers killed in the Western Front have been inscribed.