Mountain resort and nature reserve in Taiwan
Photo: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Alishan National Scenic Area (阿里山國家風景區 Ālǐshān guójiā fēngjǐng qū) is a national park in Chiayi County, southern Taiwan. Located high up in Taiwan's mountainous spine, Alishan — "Mount Ali" — is Taiwan's most-visited national park. The historic Alishan Forest Railway brings passengers from the lowlands through the mountain village of Fenqihu (just before the park), alongside groves of ancient cypress trees, and to a sunrise over the iconic Yushan piercing through a sea of clouds.
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祝山
The top attraction in Alishan, everybody crowds aboard the predawn trains for the half-hour trip to this peak on the east side of Alishan, where you can see the sunrise over Yushan. If you're an early riser, you can also walk (the whole way is lit, albeit weakly), it's a not overly strenuous one hour from the 7-Eleven - this also allows you to go early before the crowds and enjoy the amazing pre-dawn twilight colours and tranquility, which you will miss if you take the train. There's a viewing platform right next to the station, but it's worth it to hike an extra 15-20 minutes past the helicopter pad to the very top, where the crowds are a little thinner. As the sun is already up behind the mountain, the sky is already quite light by the time you get to the top, and the sun is very bright when rising up -- hawkers sell disposable NT$10 eclipse-style filtered glasses, but it's better to not stare at all. On the way back, skip the train and walk back instead, it's a pleasant 3-4 km downhill hike.
There are in fact two of these, both near Shermuh station, and they can be walked in a pleasant half-hour loop. The 36 featured cypresses here are giant indeed, and many have been growing for well over a millennium. The original 52 m Sacred Tree fell in 1998 to become a massive nurse log, passing the sacred designation to the 47 m Xianglin Giant Tree. The small Cihyun Temple, which was built by the Japanese, and the Tree Spirit Pagoda are along the way. The trail is particularly magical when the mist rolls in (in October, this tends to happen in the early to mid afternoon).
姊妹潭
Two scenic little ponds in the forest. The Elder Sister Pond, the larger of the two, has a much-photographed octagonal little pavilion in the middle.
大塔山
The Greater Tashan is the highest of the Tashan peaks, at 2663 m. Depending on the weather, you will either have a wide vista from the observation platform at the top, or will admire a sea of clouds. A good trail leads up to the peak and takes about 1½-2 hours going up from its entry point nearby the Two Sisters Pond, a bit less going down again. The trail is blissfully free of tour groups due to its medium difficulty, with some quite steep stairs on the way, but it should be doable for anyone in decent walking shape. Bring something to drink and appropriate sun protection, as even if Alishan village is cloudy, the peak can still bask in full sun due to its higher altitude.
About 4 hours one way, connects Fenqihu and Ruili through a scenic bamboo forest straight out of a kung-fu movie.
Six connected trails, totaling 5 km, through tea gardens, bamboo forests, cedar forests, and sunset lookout platforms.
A hall of several vendor stalls serving soups and stir-fries.
玉山園餐廳
One of Alishan's many hotpot restaurants. English menu (well, kinda), reasonably priced and tasty.
阿里山大峰渡假山莊
Complimentary Wi-Fi in the lobby, and also reaches most nearby rooms, for those traveling with laptops. The rooms don't have heat unless it gets very cold, although the beds have electric blankets. Also there was no hot water, this may be par for the course at the cheaper hotels in the area.
It's better to call to make reservation or to send an email. The owners don't speak English, but they will understand your email if it's written in simple English (the answer will be in Chinese). Hot water and warm blankets. Bring your own towel, they don't provide!
高山青大飯店
Large resort.
神木賓館
Renovated 5-story hotel. Rooms are pleasant enough, but they're stingy with the heating, which is only turned on when temperature in the rooms falls below 7°C! 5 min on foot downhill from the railway station.
阿里山賓館
The grand old lady of Alishan's hotels, with both a traditional Chinese wing and a very modern, slick new wing. The best views in Alishan and well-located for venturing into the park. Free shuttle bus from railway station. Breakfast and dinner included, but watch out for the dinner, as it is not very good.
阿里山閣大飯店
Free shuttle bus from the train station. Coats can be rented for NT$100, if you came dressed for summer, and don't want to get chilled to the bone while waiting for the sunrise. Price includes Taiwanese style breakfast in the hotel restaurant.
奮起湖大飯店
Also known as Fancylake Hotel, this is the only larger hotel in Fenqihu, a stone's throw from the train station.
綠香茶園民宿
Several rooms hosted by a fifth-generation tea farming family, with tea fields right outside the window. Host doesn't speak English, but is exceptionally adept at Google Translate. Sit for a tasting session of the house tea.
By bus
Buses (some large and luxurious, some more cramped minibus styles) from Chiayi to Alishan leave regularly and take between two and three hours.
By taxi
Outside the bus hours, the only way to get to Alishan is by taxi which will cost NT$1,600.
By mini-bus
There are minibuses operating on the roads within Alishan, with stations at the major sites.
On foot
The village around Alishan station, with most of the hotels, shops, restaurants, is compact but on a hill that is steep in places.
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