
Capital and largest city of Suriname
Photo: Ian Mackenzie from Ottawa, Canada, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Paramaribo, often called Par'bo, is the lively capital and only city of the sparsely inhabited country of Suriname. Home to about 240,000 people (2012), or over half of the country's population, this laid-back South American gem lies 15 km from the Atlantic Ocean. It's the country's main harbour, governmental seat and centre for business and learning. Many visitors to Suriname come by here, spending some time to take in the city's pretty UNESCO World Heritage listed colonial centre. Paramaribo leads by example in Surinam's efforts to expand its tourist economy, with a strong focus on eco-friendly travel.
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Good service and cheap.
Good and fast service
Paramaribo's distinctive historic city centre, packed with wooden buildings from colonial times, has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List since July 2002. It's the planned nature and remarkable architecture that makes this place unique. The spacious, tree-lined street plan was laid out by the first Dutch governor in the 17th century. Most of the mansions originate from the first half of the 19th century however, as they had to be rebuilt after large city fires in 1821 and 1832. The designs are clearly inspired by Dutch architecture of the time, but incorporated a range of indigenous techniques and used local materials. The Waterkant and Mr.Lim A Postraat have some of the best examples. Many of the wooden houses are in dire need of restoration, however, to the point where UNESCO has urged the state to address the problem and threatened to revoke the city's status.
The English laid the first foundations for the current brick fort around 1650, replacing an earlier wooden structure built by the French around an even earlier Dutch trading post. In 1667, Dutch and English forces fought over the fortifications, then called fort Willoughby, and the surrounding lands. The Peace of Breda later that year put the whole of Suriname in Dutch hands, however, when the Dutch preferred to retain Surinam and its sugar factories rather than swap them for what later became New York and the fort was renamed Zeelandia. It was built as a colonial stronghold for the Dutch, and later served as an army barrack and a prison. In 1982, Fort Zeelandia was the scene of the so-called December murders, as fifteen prominent Surinamese men who had criticized the then military dictatorship ruling Suriname were tortured here and then shot dead. The events remain controversial today, as the circumstances are still unclear, but the former president of Suriname Desire Bouterse is the main suspect. In 1995 the restored buildings were opened to the public as a museum. The collection of the Suriname Museum covers the different cultures of Suriname, the colonial period, 20th century art, a library collection and a photo archive. There is a café and a restaurant (Baka Foto) with an outdoor terrace in the courtyard. In front of the entrance are historical officers houses. This beautiful area gives you an impression of how the city once was when trees lined the streets. A statue of Queen Wilhelmina is on the waterfront, looking over the Suriname River.
Highlight of this small museum is a 1679 copper Parrot coin. You'll probably need to have a real interest in the history of money to fully appreciate the collection on display, but there's no admission fee and walking in for a quick glance can't hurt. The museum is part of the Bank of Suriname, and it's housed in one of the nice colonial building. It holds almost every legal currency used in Suriname since the late 17th century.
The square is the heart of Paramaribo surrounded by important buildings like the Presidential Palace, Court of Justice, the Parliament. It's used as a place for festivals like Carisfesta XI in 2013. Normally there's not much activity, but on Sundays men exercise the national hobby: letting their caged birds sing.
The Palm garden, a small park filled with king palms behind the Presidential Palace, was part of the original city plans of Cornelis van Aerssen van Sommelsdijck, the first Dutch governor. He opened the garden for public in 1685, but was murdered only three years later, after which the property was closed again. Not until the early 20th century was the Palm Garden re-opened. In 2009 it was restored with funds from UNESCO. It has a small play ground now, some statues and benches to hang out on, making it a pleasant, shady place on a hot day. Except on holidays, when the place comes to life with food stalls and such, the garden is best avoided after sundown for the lighting is poor and the place attracts less friendly crowds.
Establishing a zoo was an idea of Prime Minister Pengel in the 1960s. Awaiting the construction of the zoo, he started collecting animals in his own backyard, until the zoo was opened in 1972. The number of animals and (subsequently) of visitors declined over the following decades, however, leaving the zoo in poor state. Starting in 2003 it engaged in a cooperation with Dutch Diergaarde Blijdorp in Rotterdam, which helped raise funds to restore the place. The zoo has regained its popularity. Its collection of animals includes mostly regional species, among which are many indigenous monkeys, jaguars, caimans, many tropical birds and a petting zoo. There's also a nice playground for kids.
This Roman Catholic cathedral is one of the biggest wooden structures on the entire American continent. Building started in 1883 and the church was consecrated two years later. The towers were not finished before 1901 though, and the characteristic yellow and grey painting of the outside was done only in 1926. The design of the church was inspired by the Redemptorist church in Roosendaal and the (then new) Basilica and Shrine of Our Lady of Perpetual Help in Boston, while the interior, carried out in unpainted cedar wood, was a Surinamese design. Poor restoration efforts were undertaken in the late 1970s, leaving the building in need of new repairs shortly after. Finally, termite damage and severe tilting led to the closure of the cathedral in 1989 for safety reasons. The Vatican provided some funds for initial repairs in the mid 1990s and after fundraising efforts and a large EU grant, thorough restorations were carried out between 2007 and 2010. The cathedral was re-opened for the public in that year. Only the large organ, of which most of the pipes had been stolen, is still a work in progress.
A large market with over 3,000 stalls inside a hall at the Waterkant. It's a colourful, buzzing place with smells and sounds to perceive deficit. They offer fresh fish (delivered directly by fishermen), vegetables, fruit and meat. On the first floor are non-perishables sold as clothes, shoes, kitchen utensils and more. Many market vendors, especially the Maroon people, strongly object to having their pictures taken.
Surinamese theater company
The Suriname theater company was founded in 1837 and is the oldest theater company of the Caribbean. The Thalia theater building was opened in 1840, but after its 2011 renovation it now seats 500.
Chinese restaurant specialising in seafood.
For some reason, this place is especially popular with travellers and the many Dutch trainees staying in town. They cater to Dutch tastes as well, with anything from traditional Suriname Pom sandwiches to burgers and French Fries with Dutch "frikandel" sausages. They also offer a range of services besides the food, including some good mid-range lodging options, car hire and a souvenir shop.
Good Creole meals, soups and snacks. At 08:00, fresh bread rolls are available. It has a nice terrace under a huge mahogany tree. Also popular with parliamentarians.
East Indian restaurant in the centre of town, well known for their chicken roti.
Famous for their king crab.
Asian food.
A good choice for travellers on a budget, with tasty Javanese food.
Famous for their 'tjoeng'
This is considered one of the better options in Blauwgrond and was granted the Fernand de Rooy Certificate. Service can be on the slow side, but the food is very nice. It gets crowded on weekends, so call ahead if you want to ensure a spot.
Pancakes and poffertjes (typical Dutch small, fluffy pancakes)
On the first floor of the Krasnapolsky Hotel. Popeye's serves Cajun style fast food.
Serves good dim sum.
An upscale place at the waterkant with a nice view over the river
An upscale place at the waterkant with a decent wine selection but no river view.
Between De Waag and Riverside Kitchen, huge terrace towards the river. Open only for dinner but until late. Serves local dishes; the most affordable of the upscale restaurants at the waterkant.
Next door to Brotik with a huge seating area at the river. The kitchen is open only for lunch. Great local dishes for SRD20 to SRD30. Hangout for locals.
Pool billiards, cocktails, has a terrace.
formerly Starzz
Euphoria Nightclub is one of Parbo's coolest dance venues with a good blend of DJs playing a variety of sounds.
Torarica is for all kind of activities. Dancing and casino at night, B&B and swimming at the pool, entertainment.
Guesthouse in an old colonial building
Guesthouse
Very popular guesthouse that has 12 rooms.
Apartments
Small scale resort with well-appointed studio apartments. Shared hotel facilities include a swimming pool, hot tub, hammocks. They can arrange tours to the interior of Suriname or day trips to the many cultural sites to visit.
formerly Guesthouse Flair
Luxury guesthouse and apartments. The rooms are clean and the kitchen is new and well equipped. Free WiFi and parking.
Apartments
Apartments
This hotel is in an old colonial building. You are allowed to swim in the pool of the Torarica hotel.
Good 3-star hotel located a couple of minutes drive from the Waterkant. It has a small pool, in-house restaurant and free internet. It caters also to business travellers staying for a longer period of time, with special rates for long term apartment rent.
Central location close to the Waterkant, fairly modern hotel with an in-house restaurant.
Fairly close to the Waterkant. Free wifi and luggage storage (which will come in hand when embarking on multiple day tours) available. Around €40 for a double air-conditioned room.
This large 4½-star hotel is as high quality as it gets in this town. Located on the river side, it offers good service and facilities like a gym, swimming pool, tennis courts and one of the rare fine dining experiences in town.
The hotel has rooms with view over the old town and Suriname River.
4-star
It's the largest mall in the country with about 20 clothing stores, gift shops and a food corner. A mega theatre is under construction.
By bus
From Georgetown, Guyana, take minibus #63a to Molson Creek in eastern Guyana just across the river from Suriname. The trip takes at least 3 hr and costs c. USD10.
By boat
Boat taxis can take you over the Suriname River to the Commewijne district.
By car
There are several car hire services based in Paramaribo.
By bus
In Suriname, the buses are private. The drivers, however, follow collectively determined routes.
By bike
Renting a bike is a good alternative to get around and also to explore the outskirts of town. Keep in mind that you have no shelter from the sun and that you can be surprised by torrential rain.
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Paramaribo · International · PBM
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